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Expert
Posts: 2905
Location: little rock, AR | I just replaced the rubber bushing in my Idler Arm with a TRW ball bearing bushing. Getting the rubber bushing out was easy. The metal sleve was a little more difficult without a press. I had a friend hold the arm while I drove a socket against the sleve to get it out.
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Expert
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Location: Arizona | What was the bearing part number?? |
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Expert
Posts: 2905
Location: little rock, AR | I going to my shop tonight to install this part and I'll post the part # when I get back. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 466
Location: Vancouver, Washington | Hey Dorsey get a manicure while your at it...lol...nice job you will notice the difference soon as you get behind the wheel
Edited by 61forfun 2013-04-19 10:51 PM
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Expert
Posts: 2905
Location: little rock, AR | The TRW # is 18564. The collars that are in-serted in the idler arm must recessed enough so when the bearings sit on the collar you can squeeze all of this into the dog ears of the body. You might have to spread the dog ears slightly to make it all fit. On picture # 1 that collar is not recessed enough. Ask me how I know!!!
Edited by oldwood 2013-04-19 11:38 PM
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 417
Location: Bräcke,Sweden | I need to change my idlerarm bushing in the near future. Do you buy them on ebay ? |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 967
Location: Canada | I know Rock Auto sells them...... |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 417
Location: Bräcke,Sweden | Ok, thanks. I'll check them out. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 417
Location: Bräcke,Sweden | Had no luck with Rock Auto but found it at Just Suspension. Idlerarm repair kit 20323. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7498
Location: northern germany | the idler arm is the most overlooked part in suspension systems. those inferior rubber bushings are obsolete since 1960 when the factory switched to the ball bearing design. the factory ball bearing bushing is a big improvement and really tightens the steering but unfortunately they, for some reason, used axial bearings and therefore the bearing case is flimsy sheet metal (idler arms/brackets were designed for rubber bushings and there wasn't more room left for beefier designed axial bearings without changing the frame bracket) they break easily.
another disadvantage is they can be easily squashed when tightening the bolt and therefore the bolt can't be properly tightened and requires a lock plate. not the case with radial bearings, you can tighten the bolt to rubber bushing/factory specs because there is no load on the bearings.
but the biggest disadvantage of axial bearings is they can't be sealed properly from dirt and therefore wear fast and make a real mess.
i rebuild these with heavy duty deep grove radial bearings that are completely sealed away from the elements with an oil/grease resistant rubber seal. these last forever.
i use to offer a rebuild service on ebay just like for the heater valves and center links but found out people are more interested in how their cars look and not how they perform. things that are not glitz and gleam or are not visible at car shows do not sell
Edited by 1960fury 2013-07-25 7:58 PM
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Expert
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Location: McComb, Mississippi | would you happen to have a part number for the seals and bearings? thank you |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7498
Location: northern germany | sorry for not answering sooner. my computer crashed. took the fotos long ago, still have a couple of bearings somewhere but you can order bearings in all sizes. you will of course also need a rigid inner sleeve,drilled so the grease can reach the bearings, a bolt drilled and tapped with a grease fitting and appropriate size (about the size of the inner bearing race) washers on both ends (more on the upper end) so it barely fits into the frame bracket.
Edited by 1960fury 2013-08-01 8:05 PM
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Expert
Posts: 2264
Location: McComb, Mississippi | thank you again. Are these Radial ball bearings? |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7498
Location: northern germany | yes of course otherwise it wouldn't work. hd deep groove radial ball bearings. |
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Expert
Posts: 2264
Location: McComb, Mississippi | thanks again. this should really take up a lot of slack in the steering. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7498
Location: northern germany | pm sent |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 397
Location: Milano, Italy | Could it be interesting my solution to this idler arm bushing weaknesss? I had a solid cylinder stock of nylon cut the exact lenght between the two brackets on the frame (those that hold the original bushing) and then I had it machined to the size of inner diameter of the arm. Next I drilled a hole in the center of the cylinder, the size of the bolt. What I got is a big nylon bushing tight enough to hold the arm steady and self lubricating. It is not affected by water, dirt, oil. Probaly it will outlast the car................
Edited by lonesome mopar 2013-09-13 6:54 AM
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Expert
Posts: 3575
Location: Netherlands | I did pretty much the same on my '57 once.
Made 2 bushings with a collar which went over an inner steel tube to prevent overtightening the bushings.
Nylon bushings or ballbearings really firm up the idler arm in a much needed area as you want the idler arm to move at the exact curve and angle as the pitman arm on the steeringbox does. If not, it will cause sketchy handling/steering and unnecessary tirewear.
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7498
Location: northern germany | 1960fury - 2013-08-01 7:55 PM
and appropriate size (about the size of the inner bearing race) washers on both ends (more on the upper end) so it barely fits into the frame bracket.
oops, just returned from under my car lubricating joints. it should be more on the LOWER end. but not really important, no big difference anyway. try to get the idler arm as close as possible to the pitman arm height. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 397
Location: Milano, Italy | BigBlockMopar - 2013-09-13 1:15 PM I did pretty much the same on my '57 once. Made 2 bushings with a collar which went over an inner steel tube to prevent overtightening the bushings..........................(...) yes adding the collars is a good idea. But In my humble opinion, adding the inner steel tube is a bit too perfect..... :-)) My point of wiew is that the nylon bushing has to remain stationary while the idler arm moves. Therefore, the bolt should tighten the nylon against the frame brakets, so that the nylon doesn't rotate. As matter of fact the nylon doesn't require much torque to get locked, so, some drops of loctite can hold the locking nut in its position even if it is not over tightened. (provided the nut was washed and cleaned before) |
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