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Location: ZH, Switzerland | Hello
I'm new here. I applied today to this forum. My car's a 1956 Chrysler New Yorker 2 door hardtop, Newport. I bought it February 2010 in Milbank, SD. After buying it got a big journey to Switzerland where I received it 04/09/2010 (about a month ago). The VIN of the car is N56L3495, a car built at Los Angeles.
Kind regards
Dieter
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
  
Location: bishop, ca | Dieter, welcome aboard; another nice car gets to be preserved!
I wonder what inspired that upholstery pattern?
That might just be a 'Spring' Special model, there.
Edited by d500neil 2010-05-10 5:20 PM
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Expert
Posts: 2244
Location: Yorba Linda, Ca | Nice car. Interesting way the dash is done 2-tone (2 colour). Really accentuates the guage and controls area
Welcome!
Gary |
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Expert
Posts: 1730
Location: Michigan | They were all (models) done in two-tone like that. Great looking car! You even have a horn ring! Very valuable. Be careful with that. :D |
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Posts: 2612
Location: Parts Unknown | Welcome ! LOVE your car  VERY SHARP  I want to see under the hood !!! |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 774
Location: Atlanta GA USA | Nice car! That will certainly turn some heads  |
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Expert 5K+
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Location: cornpatch county, Southwest IOA | Beltran - 2010-05-10 8:42 PM
They were all (models) done in two-tone like that. Great looking car! You even have a horn ring! Very valuable. Be careful with that. :D Absolutly on the horn ring. treat it like gold thst would be worth nothing if it got broken. I saw one on e-bay that brought over $800. I don't think your upholstery pattern is stock , but still looks like it could be and looks good. . Could you post a closer pic of the trim on your rear ( C ) pillar. It appears to be an uncommon trim that goes with the stainless drip rail cover. Beautiful Chrysler--I am partial to the 56 two door hardtops  .................................MO |
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | Hello to all
Thank you very much for your warm welcome. About the pattern of the cloth of the seats - I watched at several 1956 NY St. Regis at youtube and stopped the movie when the upholstery was close enough. I guess - from this views the pattern is quite close or similar to those of a St. Regis three tone.
There are only some things missing: the horn ring is glued, all the weatherstrips around the door opening are missing (non existent), the windshield has a dent - but fixed now, the tires have to be replaced and the horns do not sound. But at least the engine starts as good as a new engine. The engine bay is not restored (original state). But from what I know about the 1956 Chryslers - it's pure stock. |
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | Some new pictures... I'm sorry
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Veteran
Posts: 168
Location: Leeds, England | Welcome Dieter and congrats on a geat car and colour scheme.
Don't feel bad about the horn not working as my horn came on constant in busy traffic on my first night out on saturday and i had to pull over and disconect with hundreds staring.
My plan is to try and avoid the idiots so i dont need a horn.
Simon |
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | Hello Simon
Thank you very much for your response about the horn ring. I decided to buy a cadmium containing thin solder to soft-solder the horn ring. I'll put the whole horn ring into the baking oven to heat it up to 500 F. Then I'll take it out of the oven, put it to the stone floor and heat both areas (where the ring and the spoke meet) with a blow torch until the thin solder starts to enter the small gap. When it has cooled down I'll take some polishing paper to clean the horn ring.
I guess this way I could repair it.
Kind regards
Dieter |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | Dieter, it looks like you've been able to remove that yellow marking-paint from your windshield, OK,
and, that's very fortunate, because if a car is left in bright sunshine for a prolonged time, that yellow-
paint will permanently discolor the windshield (or, the windshield will discolor-itself, AROUND the painted-
numbers/info---dunno which, but does it really matter?)....
Point is: if someone is contemplating buying some glass part with this yellow paint on it, be sure to try to
remove some of that paint, to find out if the glass is discolored, over-all, in relation to the condition of the glass, UNDERNEATH
the numbers/writing on that piece of glass.
Edited by d500neil 2010-05-12 3:20 PM
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Expert
Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Yes I was removing the yellow scripts on the windows and the windshield. The photos I posted with this thread are not in a chronological order.
The most recent picture I took is DSC943. All other pictures are older. I'm sorry - last Friday afternoon I visited my car to mount the lower water pump belts and checked one horn, but I forgot my camera.
The horn is sounding, when + is applied to the terminal at the horn.
The sooner or later I guess I have to replace at least the whole wiring in the motor bay.
But first I would like to buy a set of shock absorbers for my car.
e.g. this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Set-4-shocks-absorbers-55-56-Chrysle...
But the seller does not accept orders with an IP other than USA or Canada. So I'm like banned to buy these shock absorbers. Is there another source or another way to get a set of gas shock absorbers for my car?
I'll appreciate any advice. Thank you.
Dieter |
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Expert
Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Finally I got contact /w the seller and he'll send it to my aunt in Canada. Thank you very much.
Happy motoring!
Kind regards
Dieter  |
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Expert
Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Howdy folks
For all who were asking for more pictures - here they are. Below the tag the color doesn't look good. I don't know what it is.. if it's rusted or ....?
The description on the body tag is:
SG 5
M3 5
M8 4
M9 8
SCHED 0214
NO 0115
MODEL C721
BT 042
PT 407
TR 20
Under all other signs there were no inscriptions.
On some pictures you'll see an impression about the wiring or the engine bay in general. The generator is removed at the time I took the pictures. The power brake uses a bellow type power assist, there is also a manual jiffy bay present...
Happy motoring
Dieter
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Expert 5K+
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Location: cornpatch county, Southwest IOA | Thanks for the C pillar trim shot. Yes that is an un-common trim. What is that, a rough -pebbly surface on the ribs? The trim I have must be for a 55 as it has holes in it to mount additional stars or something....................................MO |
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| Welcome aboard! I just joined myself. Finding a ton of great info on here. |
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Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Thanks rameth. I guess with your other project you'll have a lot of work. Good luck!
Mopar-TO-YA: about the surface I think it's corroded as the front vent glass frames are.
Happy motoring!
Kind regards
Dieter |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 5139
Location: cornpatch county, Southwest IOA | di_ch_NY56 - 2010-05-22 1:02 PM
Thanks rameth. I guess with your other project you'll have a lot of work. Good luck!
Mopar-TO-YA: about the surface I think it's corroded as the front vent glass frames are.
Happy motoring!
Kind regards
Dieter OK, now I understand.. Those corroded ribs are
chrome plated pot metal that is over the top of the stainless steel
Newport trim. That pot metal piece is missing from the trim I bought off e-bay.
................MO |
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Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | MO please would you provide some pictures of your collection showing the c pillar trim. So I'll get an idea how it should look like. Thank you very much.
Happy motoring!
Kind regards
Dieter |
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Expert 5K+
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Location: cornpatch county, Southwest IOA | di_ch_NY56 - 2010-05-24 2:54 PM
MO please would you provide some pictures of your collection showing the c pillar trim. So I'll get an idea how it should look like. Thank you very much.
Happy motoring!
Kind regards
Dieter Yours is correct for the drip edge chrome trim on a
New Yorker Newport. You just don't see many of that trim option.
Mine is a Windsor Newport and did not have trim on the C pillar. Just holes where
there should be some. I later found that mine is supposed to have three 3 point "stars"
on each side. I have found three of those "stars" but need three more....................MO |
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | I wish ya gooood luck! I hope ya'll find 3 more stars.
Happy motoring!
Kind regards
Dieter |
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Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Some more pictures of the interior of my New Yorker... I appreciate comments thank you.
Happy motoring!
Kind regards
Dieter
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | Hello
I've just taken some more photos. Last week I renewed the wiring in the motor bay and to the heater motor. The horn is working again, but only if I'll push the left arm of the horn ring. I guess the part /w the socket for the wire has only one contact instead two. The speedometer is restored and now there is a kph scale on the outside of the mph scale.
All lights (except the brake warn light and the map light - I'll do it later - I have to seek the socket..., perhaps behind the glove box, but not visible from the bottom...) are working (brake not tested, no brake fluid present due to a leak in a brake hose), the wiper is working, both motors (heater and defroster) are working and the engine's running again. The back up lights are only working if the engine's running and the R- button is pushed.
At least I'm looking round for a second outside mirror /w dual stems like the one mounted at the left door. Thank you.
Happy motoring!
Dieter
I assume that the adhesive tape is as old as the switch.
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 530
Location: Wake Forest, NC | What a neat car love the colors. |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | Dieter (or anyone else; especially those of us with the driver's side rear view mirror located way-forward on the
fender)...if your rearward vision is not good (YOURS should be, though), you can install a large convex rear view
mirror, using 'weatherstrip-glue', directly onto the mirror face.
For the far-ahead located mirrors, the rearward vision-effect is PERFECT.
I haven't tried installing a convex mirror over on the right side, but if that mirror is positioned as far inward and downward
as possible, it does serve to let you see a small PART of an object (like a grille area) that is otherwise hidden from view, on
your blind-side (that is, without your having to turn your head, over toward the right-rear area).
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Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Hello Neil
Thanks a lot for your answer. Personally I'm happy with the drivers side mirror. But the first owner apparently only bought the drivers side outside mirror. On the passenger side there is no outside mirror at all. So I would like the find a similar outside rear mirror. The first test on the road is scheduled for September this year. Then I'll see how much the outside mirror on the drivers side will show under traffic condition. The position of the drivers side mirror is more or less at the same location like the outside mirrors of the Alfa Romeo I sold to buy this beauty.
Happy motoring!
Dieter
Fins/413, thank you very much for your post. Yes I like the color combination very much either. This was the reason my heart melted and I decided to buy the Chrysler. The color is metallic blue, quite close to the original mediterranean blue.
Happy motoring!
Dieter
I'm sorry - I know it's not a Mopar nor a FL car...
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Expert 5K+
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Location: cornpatch county, Southwest IOA | The mirror you have is from a early to mid 60's Mopar. It is just like my 1964 Dodge B body.. Go to e-bay motors-search for Dodge 1964 and you find plenty of them....................MO |
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Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Hello Steve
Thank you very much for your hint. I didn't have a clue where and when it was mounted on. I found one and put a question about the shipping costs to my country.
Kind regards and happy motoring!
Dieter |
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Expert
Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Today I got a mail from Chrysler LLC Historical Department. The result is that the car is a numbers matching car. The actual color scheme is the same like used for the two tone Windsor Special. The separation line for the second color on a New Yorker Special was the contour moulding. Instead of white the original color was Satin Gray. Trim code: 20: Medium Blue Sculptured Pattern Cloth & Light Blue Leather. The new upholstery is White now, but I guess the Pattern is like the original pattern. Few days ago I found a 56 New Yorker 2 door hardtop for sale in Germany /w the same pattern, but rotated for 90 degree.
The dealer is illegible, I guess non existent today (08608), Date shipped: Feb. 16 1956
The quality of the build card is not exceptional. Chrysler LLC excused for it. I appreciate it very much. Thank you.
Happy motoring!
Dieter
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | About the fabric pattern: Thanks a lot to Warren who took this video and posted it at Youtube. It's a rare find - all original and has the same fabric pattern like mine, but - of course - in a different color, even though it's a St. Regis three tone and mine is a Newport two tone New Yorker.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HgdNK1wFbs
Happy motoring! And please enjoy it.
Dieter |
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Veteran
Posts: 107
Location: Sydney | Hi Dieter - I love your NY !
Did you buy it from Gesswein Motors ? |
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Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Hi SalesGuy
Thank you very much for your post. Yep it is from Jim who sold it to me.
Happy motoring!
Dieter |
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Expert
Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Hello all
Yesterday evening I got a phone call from my mechanic. He told me there are shooting holes in the inner LH fender (guess why there is a new interior and a fresh paint at my Chrysli). At this occasion I took some more pictures because my Chrysli is on the lift now. With a puller (like Donnie shows in a movie posted at Youtube) my mechanic could pull the brake drum off the axle stub. He needed a lot of torque - at least a clank and the drum was free. The puller is still mounted at the LH side. This morning we heated witch a torch, also used a hammer, but we couldn't free the LH drum. It didn't even move a thousands of an inch. I guess I'll start a thread at the brake section. The puller is a four leg type.
The following pictures are showing the underside of my Chrysli... (note: two different mufflers... and a water cooled PowerFlite )
Happy motoring!
Dieter
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | Today I visited my Chrysli again, back from the dry ice cleaning of the underside of my Chrysli. It was my first test drive with my Chrysli. I runs very good and the Powerflite shifts very quick - a pleasure to ride.
Following is a collage of some pictures I shot... please enjoy!
The question now is: what kind of mufflers did you mount under your 1956 Chrysler, De Soto and Imperial? It seems that my Chrysli is quite quit. My mechanic told me - if I'll succeed the test under these conditions I'll never be able to mount a louder system, because they check the noise level and will use it as a threshold. So if available I'll choose a little bit louder mufflers (there are two different mufflers mounted actually...) thanks for your answer.
Happy Motoring!
Dieter
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7207
Location: Victoria, BC, on Vancouver Island, Canada | Man, what a clean rust free car you have! |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 444
Location: Sweden Vansbro | Wow, you are a lucky guy, who found this car, no rust at all, congrats, |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | What a survivor!!!
And, not-even factory undercoated!
Dieter, you want as quiet of a muffler system as you can get; your car is a limosine !!
What a treasure it is.
Beyond getting it mechanically dialed-in, I wouldn't do anything to change its factory-OEM appearance.
I think that the thinner/smaller of the two mufflers is the correct size and appearance for your car.
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1118
Location: STL, MO | CryoBlasting works pretty well, I have used it for small parts without much luck looks like it worked for you |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 781
Location: Montreal, Canada | I wonder why on picture DSC_1194.JPG I see what seems like remaining of masking tape strips.
Any ideas?
Oh!....... by the way, what a beautiful car.
Edited by catman 2010-10-30 10:38 PM
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Expert
Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Hey
Thanks a lot for all your answers and comments. I appreciate it very much. Yes I'm very happy either - I bought this car from pictures and didn't check it before. It's very risky - I know but I couldn't resist...
About the coating: Apparently the car was factory coated. Dry Ice Cleaning removes everything - even old coating without harming the underground/basic color.
About the tape marks. I guess the tapes were mounted during the assembling process of my Chrysli. The marks were not visible before (when the coating was present).
Neil, do you think the smaller and longer muffler (drivers side) is a factory /OEM style muffler? I agree it looks like a factory mounted muffler while the muffler on the passenger side is an aftermarket muffler (no name).
I'm thinking about Magnaflow, Cherry Bombs or Borla to get two identical mufflers. But I would stick with OEM style mufflers as long as I could find one.
My mechanic would paint the whole underside of my Chrysli and the inner side of the trunk /w Hammerite color (anything like POR15).
Pending issues: differential is leaking (not clear if only the input shaft), rubber parts of the front axle (I got most of the parts actually), still too much free play in the steering box, PowerFlite is slightly leaking (pan and between engine and torque converter), shooting holes, exchange of the windshield. I hope all these issues will be solved until Christmas 2010.
Thank you very much for sharing all the knowledge.
Happy Motoring!
Dieter |
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Expert
Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Hello all
I converted some more pictures I took last week before. The floor and frame are partially painted. The inner fenders are removed to paint it black (glossy). One picture is from the passenger side motor mount. It's the better side. The drivers side motor mount is partially broken (many severe cracks in the rubber).
Today I visited my mechanic (and my Chrysli) again. The inner fenders are mounted again, every part installed again and the exhaust system mounted. Perfect fit from Waldron's Antique Exhaust. The sound is good - i like it.
Please enjoy - Happy Motoring!
Dieter
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | Dieter, I was looking again at your car's IBM card.
It appears that your ride has the complete Option Groups #3 and #5.
If anyone has the 56 Chrysler 'options & accessories' brochure, or any other factory brochures that list the available
options, the option groups are typically shown chronologically in those brochures, so that the first Group shown will
be the Option Group #1, etc...
You can compare the third and the fifth Accessory Groups' pieces, in the brochure(s), to your car's equipment.
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | Thanks a lot for your information, Neil
The only thing I know about the option groups is that my Chrysli has a silencer package. The isolation mats (under the carpet, pedals and side walls) are very big.
Personally I could not find 1956 sales brochures where the option groups are described. I don't know if the windshield washer (manual, /w foot pump) was a factory option group or dealer installed.
Happy Motoring!
Dieter |
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Expert
Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Today I visited my car again. The rubbers on the front end are replaced now and still some subjects to do. But I see the end of the tunnel as well as my mechanic is talking about the check at the traffic administration since few days. The last four pictures are showing the bumper ends where at the LH side one part is missing. I guess it's the tail and stop lamp extension moulding, but could be called different. It's the (i guess) stainless 3d steel sheet.
Happy Motoring!
Dieter
BTW: I'm not completely happy with the black paint work. Guess you'll see why...
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Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Two pictures were too big..
Once again
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Posts: 369
Location: buchanan,Ga. | This is a great looking car, love the colors ,clean,rust free you can't beat that for sure!!! Hope you find lots of good times by being her owner.Welcome aboard by the way!!
Edited by agirlandher58 2011-02-12 4:41 PM
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Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Thank you very much for your comment. I appreciate it very much.
Happy times all the times for you!
Happy Motoring!
Kind regards
Dieter |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 347
Location: Ocean Park, Washington | Dieter, I have my 56 Windsor in Washington State and are very thankful for the different pictures of your complete, beautiful car. I have taken alot of pics of my project as it goes along. Some pics I have missed but with yours, it will make the assembly easier. Thank you very much. Take a look at where my project is at in "what have you done with your FL car today". I am cleaning up the starter today to install then work on the driveshaft. |
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | John
Thank you very much for your comment. I'll post some more pictures after your wish if you'll need some more.
Funny - first I was thinking about buying a Windsor or a Saratoga - of course a 2d or 4d hardtop. The reason is that my truck is propelled by a 318 Poly engine and I thought a Poly is less demanded than a Hemi and has power enough. At the time I was looking at classic car trader online no suitable Windsor or Saratoga was for sale. So I decided to look for a New Yorker. So I found my Chrysli. After I watched the pictures I fell in love or was addicted...
I wish big success with your project!
Happy Motoring!
Dieter
Edited by di_ch_NY56 2011-02-14 5:16 PM
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Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Cool, looks familar though. LOL |
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Posts: 347
Location: Ocean Park, Washington | I paid $400 for mine about 5 years ago. The 331 poly has an upgraded cam and new valves. I'm going with an alternator and a different power steering pump, to allow the engine to be seen. I converted to front disc with AAj Brakes. I needed a Virgil Exner finned ride. |
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | Hi John
Thanks for your information. I visited the "What did you do to your FL car today" and saw the pictures you posted. The chassis looks wonderful! Congratulation! Furthermore I visited your photo album to get an overview about your project. I wish you goooood luck for the finishing of your wonderful Windsor.
Thanks a lot for the information about how much you paid for it. I guess it's clear I paid truck loads of money more for my Chrysli.
But for years when not for decades nobody did a maintenance at my Chrysli (preowners...). So until now I paid another 5 digit sum to my mechanic, but at least I got the date of the appointment my mechanic did /w the road traffic licensing department: next week over. That means mid March I'll mount the license tags and then the fun begins.
What I'll do within next few weeks:
- clock is not working (power?)
- brake warning light does not work (no feed? - I'll check it first, the bulb is new)
- no map light (where is the socket? the map light lens is in the glove box)
- mount door perimeter weatherstrips (the set I bought at Kanter is worthless, the wrong profile; I'll ask Gary Goers)
later on (e.g. next year): what's with the radio - the pointer doesn't move when I rotate the tune knob
Happy motoring!
Dieter
Edited by di_ch_NY56 2011-02-24 1:13 AM
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 347
Location: Ocean Park, Washington | Let me know how the weatherstripping works for you from Gary. I need to replace all of the stuff. Eastern Washington State is a very dry enviroment so the rust in the body is the front floors, a small spot in the trunk, and the rear lower quarters have been repaired sometime in the past. |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | Dieter, your clock's not working might just turn out to be a good thing, for you, regarding its 60/24/7/365/decades of
continued operation.
Hopefully, your clock will rejoin the living by simply spraying some WD-40 into one of its rear openings.
Sounds too-good-2-B-true, but that protocol can awaken a sleeping clock.
You may find that the small fuse, behind the clock, may need to have its connections be cleaned-off (the fuse
might even be broken).
After you get the clock running, 'watch' its timing; you can advance or retard the time by 1-minute per day by simply
moving the hours by '12-hours' for each minute that your clock is 'off'.
Keep playing with it, until your clock puts a Rolex to shame.
If a clock will not hold an adjustment, its 'contact-points' might be worn (which almost certainly would have happened if it had
continued to operate for 50 years !), so that it would require an internal overhaul.
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Expert
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | floyd066 - 2011-02-25 8:03 PM
Let me know how the weatherstripping works for you from Gary. I need to replace all of the stuff. Eastern Washington State is a very dry enviroment so the rust in the body is the front floors, a small spot in the trunk, and the rear lower quarters have been repaired sometime in the past.
Hi John
I'll let you know about the weatherstripping as soon as I'll order/get/mount it. But I guess I'll do it this summer or fall.
Good luck for you and your project!
Dieter |
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | d500neil - 2011-02-25 8:56 PM
Dieter, your clock's not working might just turn out to be a good thing, for you, regarding its 60/24/7/365/decades of
continued operation.
Hopefully, your clock will rejoin the living by simply spraying some WD-40 into one of its rear openings.
Sounds too-good-2-B-true, but that protocol can awaken a sleeping clock.
You may find that the small fuse, behind the clock, may need to have its connections be cleaned-off (the fuse
might even be broken).
After you get the clock running, 'watch' its timing; you can advance or retard the time by 1-minute per day by simply
moving the hours by '12-hours' for each minute that your clock is 'off'.
Keep playing with it, until your clock puts a Rolex to shame.
If a clock will not hold an adjustment, its 'contact-points' might be worn (which almost certainly would have happened if it had
continued to operate for 50 years !), so that it would require an internal overhaul.
Hi Neil
Thank you very much for your information about the clock. I'm sure I'll get it running again. But it needs some time until I'll get my car out of the mechanics.
At home I got a can of WD40. I use it for many things on my truck.
Personally I do not care about the precision, because I'll disconnect the battery after a run to let my car sit for a week or more. When I reconnect the battery to do a journey I'll have to readjust the time either. It's the same for my truck.
In my truck I mounted an electric clock from AutoMeter. The truck has a main switch to disconnect the battery. First thing after turning the switch to the on position is to adjust the electric clock... and then prime the carb /w the additional electric pump.
Back to the Chrysli: First I'll check the power and then I'll use WD40 and afterward I'll remove the back cover of the clock. I guess the construction of the case is quite similar to the speedometer.
Happy motoring!
Dieter |
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Expert
Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | A happy day today! My Chrysli passed the check at the road traffic licensing department. My Chrysli got the historic state
I guess Friday this week I'm going to get it at my mechanic's - first I have to get the registry card.
Happy motoring!
Dieter |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8443
Location: Perth Australia | Congrats Dieter
So its all leagal now
You can drive it ?
Mick |
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Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Hello Mick
Thanks a lot for your good wishes. Yes I'll pick it up this Friday, 03/11/2011. I did a test ride 10/30/2010. It was successful. The PowerFlite shifts very smooth up and down. The kick down works and it's a quite and comfortable ride. Since my test drive I got a new exhaust system (Waldrons Antique Exhaust /w Impostor mufflers). My mechanic told me it sounds more powerful now. I'll post more after I picked it up. All the best for all of you!
Happy motoring becomes true now (for me)!
Dieter
Edited by di_ch_NY56 2011-03-07 3:51 PM
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Expert
Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Yesterday afternoon, evening and today I did journeys with my Chrysli. It's a pleasure to ride. Sometimes the Powerflite shifts very hard up and down (I could hear clonk). I like the prismatic rear mirror and the dimmer for the panel lights!
The temperature gauge stays very low at normal temperature. At 170 F surface temperature on the same position where the sensor is and 66 Ohms I guess the needle should be more or less at the center. At the sensor I measure around 6V - ignition on. I'll do some checks (according the service manual) later on.
The door weatherstrip from Kanter is okay. The door weatherstrips are mounted. I only could hear the noise of the tires - American Classic 235/75R15S /w M+S classification.
Here is a short ride:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zSNdy8DgHQc
Happy motoring!
Dieter
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 774
Location: Atlanta GA USA | Dieter, that was great Thanks for the ride. I felt like I was in the drivers seat. Will download some of the others soon.
BG |
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Posts: 3480
Location: Montreal, Canada | The picture of the Chrysler parked next to the Smart is priceless!! Great looking Chrysler! |
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Expert
Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Thanks a lot. It's my Chrysli. For the first three journeys with my Chrylis I got a 14 mpg gas consumption. I guess it's a very good value.
I wish I could readjust the drivers side door lock so that it keeps the opener locked. At the passengers side I could rotate the key to 3 o' clock and 9 o' clock to lock and unlock the door opener. At the passengers side the door lock keeps the opener locked. At the drivers side I could reach the 9 o' clock position to open and almost 3 o' clock. I feel and hear the lock working, but when I pull the handle the mechanism doesn't hold and the door opens. During pulling the opener I feel that the lock mechanism goes back to the unlock position (apparently the lock mechanism isn't fully engaged - or at the end position).
Happy motoring!
Dieter
Edited by di_ch_NY56 2011-03-13 3:52 PM
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Expert
Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Today I visited my Chrysli. Always a 30 min journey to my Chrysli.
The targets today were:
Get out the reason why the horns do not work anymore
Find out why the temperature gauge stays around 10 to 20% when the engine has normal temperature
Looking for the map light socket
Get out the reason why the drivers door lock doesn't keep the locked position
Results:
Horns: the relays is defect. When I short circuit the input and the output of the working contacts, the horns are working.
Temperature: the sensor shows about 1.8k Ohms at 41F (5 degree C). That's ways too much.
Didn't find the map light socket. But as far as I got out there are two wires at the map/dome light switch. I guess I have to remove either the radio or the panel
Drivers side door lock: The escutcheon of the door handle is partially bent. That's not the problem, except that water will find it's way into the door. But I guess the lock is defect, dirty or worn. When the door handle is released there is no contact to the door lock. When I pull the door handle first there is a small travel until the boss get contact to the latch and then I moves the latch to free the rotor of the lock and the door opens. I didn't remove the lock. I guess first I'll have to remove the glass and the channel at the rear side to get access to the lock.
What I wonder: does anybody have the same problem with the door lock? Solution? I'll appreciate your comment. Thank you.
Happy motoring!
Dieter
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Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Today on a sunny Sunday I did a short ride (do not know if an hour or less or more...). It runs good. First I had to install the drivers side door panel again. But look at the front door. It looks like new - fresh from the factory - except the door lock...
And a short presentation of my car (outside only..., Impostor mufflers): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Su04zcyC6U
Happy motoring!
Dieter
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | Dieter, a possibility for a too-cool running engine is a stuck-open thermostat.
"Everybody" makes a big-deal about having their cars run as cool-ly as possible, but, our engines have a normal
operating temperature, and a failed T-stat will mean that your engine might not ever get up to its proper temperature,
and, a too-cool running engine will WASTE gasoline, as well as harm the engine.
At any rate, it's no big-deal to remove the T-stat, inspect it, and to test its operation, on a stove top or work bench.
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Expert
Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Hello Richard
Thanks a lot for your answer. I think the thermostat opens. The top of the radiator had about 140F while the crossover where the temperature sending unit and the thermostat is had the surface temperature of about 150F (engines off and staying for about 30 min). The temp sending unit has a resistance of 1.8 k ohm, cold (45F), and 680 ohms at 150F surface temp. I took a set of resistors with me, but didn't test it (1, 2.2, 3.3, 10 and 12 ohm). I guess the cold value should be around 360 ohms as sermey and wizard measured at the temperature sending unit in '59 Chryslers. I guess - because Chrysler uses a choke type thermostat - if the thermostat doesn't open the engine would overheat.
I tried to crank the small threaded bolt -as Serge (sermey) did - but I couldn't. The bolt is fixed.
By the way: the warm water heater is very powerful. I did open the valve only a little and got very warm (with the fresh air flaps closed).
I tried to follow the checking procedure in the 1956 Chrysler Service Manual. But I couldn't execute step 2 (disconnect the engine to ground wire, the temp gauge should swing to the top right position). I only found the wire from the battery to the engine, but not an engine to body wire like my truck has on the passenger side (from the last intake manifold screw to the firewall). When I disconnect the battery to engine wire, there is no power at all in my car.
Happy motoring!
Dieter
BTW:
Link to the thread "Defective Water Temperature Sensor"
http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=29524&...
Edited by di_ch_NY56 2011-03-20 5:24 PM
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 347
Location: Ocean Park, Washington | Hey, do you have a picture of the linkage on the left side of the carb? I finally have the engine and powerflite connected properly and am installing a 57-58 power steering pump. Don't want that generator/p.s.pump combo to cover the left side of the engine. |
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Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Hello John
Look, the best view of the throttle linkage I got is this. I'll go to take a picture of the linkage. But I think there is not much to see, because the linkage goes around the lower area of the firewall. The space between the engine and the firewall is very limited as well.
I wish you good luck for your project Windsor.
Happy motoring!
Dieter
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | Hey John
Look this is the only picture I found in my collection. I don't know if it will help.
Happy motoring!
Dieter
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 347
Location: Ocean Park, Washington | Dieter, you are fantastic!! I don't have the diagram in my shop book. Where did you get it? I printed it out right away. The other I will study very closely. Thanks friend. John.
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Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Hello John
Some days ago Phil the French posted a thread with this link: http://jholst.net/dust-to-dust.php
I downloaded from the 55 to 58 category the group 23 body pdf document. The quality of this electronic document is ways better than the print copy I got from Bishko. I wish ya good luck, dear friend.
Happy motoring!
Dieter
Edited by di_ch_NY56 2011-03-22 2:38 AM
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Expert
Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Except from (probably) crashing the starter motor I took some pictures from the Carter WCFB. Good luck, the service tag is still mounted. From my experience I guess most of the primary stage side is clogged. No wonder is the idle speed so high. I didn't check the setting of the mixture screws. Actually I cannot start the engine anymore...
Happy motoring!
Dieter
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 347
Location: Ocean Park, Washington | Hey Dieter!! Great shots!!! Looking at taillights on yours, its going to look a little different on mine. I plan to alter the housing to accept 2 LED vertical strips within the lens. One for braking and turn signal. The one bulb doesn't seem like enough light. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 957
Location: Signal Mountain, TN | Somehow managed to miss this one digging through the old threads.... Beuatiful old Chrysler, sir.
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Expert
Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | After removing most of the old oil and grime I took some pictures of the starter motor of my Chrysli. After I removed it I noticed that the wire from the starter relay to the starter solenoid (brown, 16 ga) was loose at the relay post. 
To restore this starter is loads more expensive than a new one (e.g. Powermaster 9530).
History: the starter sometimes didn't crank the engine, once it was locked in the ring gear and after that it didn't engage into the ring gear, but rotated quite slow (-> chrrrr). Actually I try to get an answer from Joe Mazzone (Buckeye Auto Electric) - restoring cost. The weight of the starter motor is 25 lbs (11.3 kg), shipment to the States about US $ 100.- to 140.-
Happy Motoring
Dieter
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 5139
Location: cornpatch county, Southwest IOA | My bet is-- take the starter all apart and clean it inside. put in new end armature bushings, clean and lathe turn the commentater, and put in new brushes , and it will work for you. ............................MO |
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Expert
Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | MOPAR-TO-YA - 2011-04-27 8:45 AM
My bet is-- take the starter all apart and clean it inside. put in new end armature bushings, clean and lathe turn the commentater, and put in new brushes , and it will work for you. ............................MO
Yes Steve, I guess it's the most economic way. Yesterday evening I removed the starter solenoid to clean the area under the solenoid. Inside the main housing is a lot of grime around the brush holders. I assembled the starter solenoid and mounted it again. I'll wait for a week. Until now I didn't order any parts for the starter motor. I just looked around and are ready to order a starter solenoid, the front bushing and a brush set. But what, when the stator winding and/or armature winding is/are defect? I was looking around for winding companies. Three are in an area of 10 mi. I'll contact them after I disassembled all parts (except pole shoes and stator winding).
Happy Motoring!
Dieter |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | Hi, Dieter; did you ever fix your door latch's operation?
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Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | d500neil - 2011-04-29 12:53 AM
Hi, Dieter; did you ever fix your door latch's operation?
Thank you very much for your question, Neil. No I didn't. I postponed it to the fall/winter 2011. I couldn't ride my Chrysli anymore. It is in the air with the drivers side and the starter motor is removed.
I'm swinging forth and back (pro/contra) restoring the original one/new mini starter.
Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1yYxhpbD2A
I know, the example is a Porsche 911, not an FL Mopar
Happy Motoring!
Dieter |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | Dieter, cleaning and restoring our starters and generators are relatively simple procedures.
Once they're fixed-up, you can forget about them; except for a once-a-year oiling the generator.
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Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Yesterday I removed the carb to clean it. I'll disassemble it and bring the parts to a ultra sonic cleaning shop nearby.
Happy Motoring!
Dieter
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | Yesterday I mounted the cleaned carb and removed the carpet, the under laying isolation, the heater regulator valve and replaced the oil filter (FRAM was inside, now WIX). I didn't mount the shell correct - today the result was a big mess. I destroyed one gasket and couldn't mount the filter again with the only existing. The gasket was sliding away all the time when I was trying to install the filter with the shell. I gave up and went home. Good luck I had a look into the parts catalog. So I figured out that there is a stem and a shell with nut - not a big screw like it appears in my case. So next time I'll try to separate the nut from the stem and mount the stem first into the base.
Good luck the engine didn't start, but fired once or twice. I noticed a small leak of gas between the base and the bowl at the driver side, secondary stage. I guess I'll remove the carb again to check if I torqued the mounting bolts (base to bowl).
All the mats and carpets are drying out. That needs a lot of time...
Happy Motoring!
Dieter
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 781
Location: Montreal, Canada | Dieter,
Your oil filter problem reminds me of a bad adventure I had with my first car back in 1984.
It was a 1955 Buick Century and I didn't screw the oil filter bowl bolt tigh enough. It was a big mess when I crank the engine.
Oil was everywhere on my girlfriend's father driveway !!!!!!
I was 18 and I had learn the hard way. Needlees to say, nobody was impress with my mechanic ability at the time
(read really angry).
By the way, your car looks rock solid. Those floor are incredible. Cool car !!!
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 957
Location: Signal Mountain, TN | What a mess to have to dry up.... 
But, on the positive, the floors look super nice.
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 347
Location: Ocean Park, Washington | Dieter, I replaced that old oil filter canister and bought the adapter from HotHemiHeads.com. Only their 30 degree adapter will work. The same angle as that old piece of garbage.
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Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | The canister oil filter... The second trial was successful. I was lying on the rh fender, working at the canister filter. The gasket I fixed it with a small rope of self adhesive tape, then I guided the screw into the thread and the filter onto his place. Then I pressed the canister case down and tightened the screw until it had contact to the case. Then I removed the tape and tightened the screw completely. First time starting the engine some drops of oil appeared around the screw. I cleaned and tried to torque the screw a little bit more.
After filling the cooling ciruit with plain water I let the engine run until the thermostat opened - no more oil drops appeared.
Then I drained the cooling fluid once more (only signs of coolling fluid, mostly water). When the cooling circuit was empty I closed all valves and put in cooling fluid, -31 F rating and run the engine again until the thermostat opened.
The insulation mats and the carpets are dry as well - so I installed the mats and the carpet. Only missing is the front bench. It's too heave for me alone.
John, thank you very much for your answer. I'll keep it in my mind. If I'll remove the canister I could use your idea. Thanks.
Happy Motoring!
Dieter |
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | The power steering makes troubles after about 5 minutes from the cold start. I made two videos. Please enjoy...
Happy Motoring!
Dieter
Stopped by (power steering problems!)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJRZgz9Kuks
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPcX3El1as4
Got an idea why the power steering seems to overheat (oil starts to boil and spills all around - just an idea)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mMO9f9WoEsA
Edited by di_ch_NY56 2011-07-03 12:21 PM
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | Dieter, every oil filter should come with a new rubber gasket, inside its box.
When I change my car's oil, (in the next couple days, coincidentally), I just inspect the existing gasket for any damage
and if it is perfect condition--it always is--I typically just reuse it, as it will have taken a natural shape-set to its housing and doesn't
move around when the canister is re-secured to it.
If you (or anyone) need a spare gasket, PM me and I can slip one into an envelope; I should have 1+ spares lying around.
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | You've previously drained the P/S fluid, right?
Disconnect the outlet hose from it and the system will drain in only a couple seconds.
You might be able to buy Lucas' Power Steering Lubricant & Stop-leak---that's very thick stuff, like honey,
and use a bottle of it along with power steering fluid.
It is said, & I'm pretty sure I've used ATF in the power steering system with fine results, but ATF is somewhat
detergent-like---it's also said that you can put a quart of ATF in the engine oil 500 miles or so from an oil
change---but haven't ever tried doing that....so maybe ATF may be a good thing to put into the P/S system
along with Lucas' stuff---they're both pink colored!
A 'groan' when you turn the wheels (even, from YOU)...is usually a sign of trapped air in the system, which should
work its way out, from continued turning-efforts.
(right/wrong; anyone? Buehler?)
Edited by d500neil 2011-07-03 4:51 PM
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | d500neil - 2011-07-02 7:24 PM
Dieter, every oil filter should come with a new rubber gasket, inside its box.
When I change my car's oil, (in the next couple days, coincidentally), I just inspect the existing gasket for any damage
and if it is perfect condition--it always is--I typically just reuse it, as it will have taken a natural shape-set to its housing and doesn't
move around when the canister is re-secured to it.
If you (or anyone) need a spare gasket, PM me and I can slip one into an envelope; I should have 1+ spares lying around.
Thanks Neil
Addressing the engine canister oil filter: I bought a WIX filter. Within the box were three (!) gaskets. Two of them with the same size for the canister. The third I don't for what. The old gasket only had some signs of compressing (border of the canister). Unfortunately I throw it away. Next time I'll keep the gasket and I'll reuse it as you recommend. Thank you very much for your idea.
Happy Motoring!
Dieter |
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | d500neil - 2011-07-02 7:40 PM
You've previously drained the P/S fluid, right?
Disconnect the outlet hose from it and the system will drain in only a couple seconds.
You might be able to buy Lucas' Power Steering Lubricant & Stop-leak---that's very thick stuff, like honey,
and use a bottle of it along with power steering fluid.
It is said, & I'm pretty sure I've used ATF in the power steering system with fine results, but ATF is somewhat
detergent-like---it's also said that you can put a quart of ATF in the engine oil 500 miles or so from an oil
change---but haven't ever tried doing that....so maybe ATF may be a good thing to put into the P/S system
along with Lucas' stuff---they're both pink colored!
A 'groan' when you turn the wheels (even, from YOU)...is usually a sign of trapped air in the system, which should
work its way out, from continued turning-efforts.
(right/wrong; anyone? Buehler?)
I've never drained the P/S fluid since I got my Chrysler spring 2010. I removed the existing P/S pump and mounted a refurbished pump I got at ePay about a year ago. Both hoses are new the pressure hose I got at ePay either. The return hose I bought from the mechanic. He filled in ATF II or III (Dexron).
I've never checked the fluid level until I ran into troubles with the power steering (I never noticed an oil leak before).
I just filled in about half of a quart to adjust the P/S fluid level (the level should stay above the filter element...).
The strong torque to rotate the steering wheel to the LH side (where the oncoming traffic is...), afterwards the total blackout of the P/S support and loud whining from the motor bay...
Later on after I opened the reservoir of the P/S I could imagine that the P/S pump sucked air instead of P/S fluid. And now probably some air has trapped in the steering gear.
Since I corrected the fluid level - I didn't notice any leakage of the P/S. I used Dexron III to adjust the level.
You're right: Now I could hear the groan every time I rotate the steering wheel (beware, it's not me who's groaning).
Happy Motoring!
Dieter
By the way: The oil I cleaned from the valve cover, the hoses, the inner fender and the vacuum reservoir smelled like fish oil... |
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | While I let run the engine with the new fuel pump I checked the behavior of the power steering again. I applied different engine speeds while I was turning the steering wheel from lock to lock and back (quite slow).
The more I turned the steering wheel cw the stronger the force to turn the steering wheel back appeared. The higher the engine speed the higher the force. Now I lifted up all four wheels (mainly to check the fuel line for leaks when I'll apply some pressure at the filler tube at the tank).
I'm on the way to remove the p/s pump from the generator to get rid of the self turning (most time ccw) of the steering. I don't see the chance that the steering gear would cure itself.
Happy Motoring!
Dieter
BTW: I know - it might be my fault: after the initial fault occured back home I tried to cure it. Several times I turned the steering wheel ways faster than 60 rpm clock wise (cw) from the center position.
Might be that I damaged a gasket or something else in the piston system of the steering gear (the service manual warns not to rotate faster than 60 rpm)
Edited by di_ch_NY56 2011-07-21 9:13 AM
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | If there are about 3 turns lock-to-lock on the steering wheel, 60 turns-per-minute (60 rpm) would equate
to about one full turn of the wheels (3 steering wheel rotations) in about 20 seconds, not counting for any
lost-time in beginning to turn the steering wheel back the other-way?
I guess that that sounds about right, but, with the wheels off the ground (permitting the rapid cranking of the
steering wheel in such a manner)....I wonder what kind of damage might be done to the P/S pump, with no
'load' upon it?
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | The very fast turn on the steering wheel was shock wise not full lock to lock (a little bit more than 3 turns from lock to lock). The wheels were on the floor, the front end weight on the wheels.
Initially the steering wheel (initially at the neutral position) started to turn ccw as soon as the engine started (the car was on the wheels). I always MUST keep at least one hand at the steering wheel.
Today I tried once again. The wheels are off the floor actually. I took care to use several seconds to rotate the steering wheel from one lock to the other. At the end when the POWER script is at the top, the steering wheel stands still and when the script is at 6 o clock and I take my hand away the steering wheel starts turning ccw. It stops close to the lock.
an example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2pasBqHVC8
Happy Motoring!
Dieter |
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | I think, this is a very good thread for my problem with the power steering (overheats... p/s fluid boils and spills out - I wrote about it yesterday at the What did you do to your FL car today).
http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=27175&...
It's because when the steering wheel is at the straight forward position (I call it 12 o clock) it doesn't spin to the left, when it is at 6 o clock (I turned it 180 deg) and let it loose the spin to the left starts immediately. I feel unequal force during a full turn of the steering wheel. This is overlaying the second problem (spin to the left/overheating).
Happy Motoring!
Dieter
BTW: according Wizard the almost the same or higher temperature of the p/s pump, the hoses and the steering box than the upper water box at the radiator is too high, overheated.
At least I mounted new upper belts (Gates XL 7440 instead of 7450)
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | Yesterday I lifted my Chrysli up to rest it onto three leg supporters. It looks a little bit dangerous. The reason is to prepare it to remove the steering gear and mount a restored one (actually at Lares Corporation, thank you very much, John).
I bought a 1 m (about three yards) of 3/8" threaded shaft and few 3/8" hex nuts. The steering wheel puller I bought has two 3/8-18 x 4" screws. These are a little bit too short. So I could cut two 5" parts and use the hex nuts as the head instead of the hex section of the screw.
The resealing of the glass filter I'll do when the car is at his own wheels again (approx October or November).
Happy Motoring!
Dieter
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Location: USA - KY | Hi, Dieter - just found your thread. I know you've heard it before, but what a wonderful car you have there! The colours are great, and I really like your fabric pattern. Your steering wheel is in amazingly good shape! Your Chrysler has found a good home.
I enjoyed looking through your pictures. We have a Smart Car, so I especially liked the picture of your Chrysler parked beside the Smart Car. Our DeSoto is as wide as our Smart Car is long, so they make an odd pair, sitting in the driveway together.
Keep those great photos coming!
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | FIN ME - 2011-09-03 3:39 PM
Hi, Dieter - just found your thread. I know you've heard it before, but what a wonderful car you have there! The colours are great, and I really like your fabric pattern. Your steering wheel is in amazingly good shape! Your Chrysler has found a good home.
I enjoyed looking through your pictures. We have a Smart Car, so I especially liked the picture of your Chrysler parked beside the Smart Car. Our DeSoto is as wide as our Smart Car is long, so they make an odd pair, sitting in the driveway together.
Keep those great photos coming!
:)
Thanks a lot for your comment.
Happy Motoring!
Dieter |
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | Today I started to remove the steering gear. I got the restored one from the Lares Corporation.
Happy Motoring!
Dieter
It's a series of photos up to the point where I should separate the steering arm from the center link. It's the resisting point prior to remove the steering gear. Note the upper column... I didn't have to remove the blinker switch carrier. The wires are inside a clamp - I couldn't open... be aware, it's an L.A. car...
Edited by di_ch_NY56 2011-10-16 3:19 PM
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | Actually I (not only I) was wondering about the upper bushing in the support or vertical bone of the front suspension (dual wishbone): there are needle bearings installed. I expected bronce bushings. The whole front suspension is out of the car. We used the same procedure like the 1956 Service Manual addresses. Chrysler on stands, hydraulic jack under the lower wishbone. Happy Motoring! Dieter |
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | I found a nice essay about a 1956 Chrysler New Yorker St. Regis. There are many interesting details in this essay at hemmings. http://www.hemmings.com/hcc/stories/2011/11/01/hmn_feature4.html What almost tortures me is the fact that the essay addressed: "A quadrant of buttons, marked N (neutral), D (drive), L (low) and R (reverse), were located on the instrument panel, to the left of the steering column; there was no Park, so at rest, the car stayed in Neutral with the parking brake on. Early 1956 models used the two-speed PowerFlite transmission, while the three-speed TorqueFlite came into use halfway through the year." #@*&^%! my wonderful Chrysler New Yorker was one of the last built with the Powerflite transmission. Chrysler published the Service Bulletin 099 in February 1956! Happy Motoring! Dieter |
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | di_ch_NY56 - 2014-12-25 11:49 PM I found a nice essay about a 1956 Chrysler New Yorker St. Regis. There are many interesting details in this essay at hemmings. http://www.hemmings.com/hcc/stories/2011/11/01/hmn_feature4.html What almost tortures me is the fact that the essay addressed: "A quadrant of buttons, marked N (neutral), D (drive), L (low) and R (reverse), were located on the instrument panel, to the left of the steering column; there was no Park, so at rest, the car stayed in Neutral with the parking brake on. Early 1956 models used the two-speed PowerFlite transmission, while the three-speed TorqueFlite came into use halfway through the year." #@*&^%! my wonderful Chrysler New Yorker was one of the last built with the Powerflite transmission. Chrysler published the Service Bulletin 099 in February 1956! Happy Motoring! Dieter From AllPar (Curtis Redgap): Late 1956 Chrysler 300 Bs were equipped with the three speed Torqueflite, along with Imperials, and the senior models of the Chrysler line. It was thought that there may have been some DeSoto models that got the Torqueflite, however, none have ever been confirmed. I do know of one 1956 Adventurer that had one: my Grandpa had his 1956 converted over from Powerflite to Torqueflite. For once, Chrysler was prepared for that type of situation, and had engineered a conversion kit for Mopar fans that wanted the flexibility and capability of the new Torqueflite. I assume the senior models of the Chrylser line were  the New Yorkers? Is this conversion kit still in some dark storage bins of some dealers? |
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | I'll stay with the Powerflite. Now I got another car with a Torqueflite. Happy Motoring! Dieter |
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Location: Michigan | I have done the conversion Dieter... posted on this site. I did it myself. If I can do it.. you surely can. |
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | After a long stay at Wizard's I'm going to pick up my Chrylser, now with a new surname - my Beast - at Wizard's. He did a loads of work on my Beast and I'm happy my Beast is in very good hands. I hope I'll get a very good journey back home with absolutely no accident. More at the album when it's here.... Happy Motoring! Dieter |
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | In general the journey back was successful. At least no accident. But near Kristianstad the highway was closed and I followed the detour signs. On a main road in a small village the engine suddenly died - that fast that it only could be the ignition. After the question if there is a spark I tried to remote start the engine at the starter relais. Unfortunately I short circuited the pin of the saftety switch with plus. So I shot the safety switch and the igniton switch (pulls the voltage to zero at the start position now). I got help from a local guy who helped out with his multimeter and we noticed that the resistor to the ignition coil melted. With Wiz who arrived in the meantime we did an emergeny repair. Since then there is a bridge to ground instead of the safety switch and a wire from the start (ign) pin with an open end. To start the engine I had to open the hood all the time and hold the wire to the battery plus for a short time. Wiz helped me to find an alternate ignition resistor at a local store. Big thank you Wzard for your help - I know I'm not the easiest guy! With five hours delay finally I met the Puttsgarden ferry. I entered the same ferry like on the journey last fall. After filling the gas tank in Karlskrona the day before I had to refill four times. 1. Karlslunde DK: 16.05 gal 232.25 mi 14.5 mpg (16.25 l/100km), most time between 55 and 68 mph according the road signs, heavy gusts and side wind 2. Bispingen D: 14.35 gal 219.75 mi 15.3 mpg (15.4 l7100km), on the highway 78 mph except a small distance from the ferry to the highway 3. Knüllwald D: 11.25 gal 184.7 mi 16.4 mpg (14.33l/100km), on the german highway between 62 and 65 mph all the time 4. Sindelfingen forest D: 13.8 gal 220 mi 15.9 mpg (14.7l/100km), during night from 11:09 p.m to 3:19 a.m wind still, between 62 and 65 mph all the time Between Stuttgart and Singen I was looking for a free space at a highway parking lot and finally I fell in sleep lying on the front bench. 7:15h a.m. I arrived at home. The last filling of fuel did last until my home. For the whole journey I refilld 1.5 quarts of oil. Both the oil pressure and the engine temperature were stable during the whole journey. Happy Motoring! Dieter
Edited by di_ch_NY56 2015-04-30 3:57 PM
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | That's some GUT miles-per-gallon, Dieter!
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | Today I mounted the new springs from Stece springs in Sweden. Thanks to Wizard who lent me his tool he made for exchange the springs. The job was successful even though at the first sprint I had to elaborate. Now the hood opens fully again and from the 2/3rds of the movement from closed to fully open it swings automaticly to the fully open position and rests there. Of course I could open the hood a little bit more, but this is caused by the lash of one rivet of the hood hinges. Happy Motoring! Dieter
Edited by di_ch_NY56 2015-05-15 12:32 PM
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
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Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Great work Dieter - the Stece springs are high quality! The red color looks really nice as well! |
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | Is there a source available for a PDF version of the Ross Roy 1956 Chrysler data book? Happy Motoring! Dieter |
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Location: Michigan | Dieter, what did you order to get those springs? Part Number? I need a set for my 55. |
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | For everybody who wants to produce your own springs, here is the price estimation of the Stece Fjädrar company... Happy Motoring! Dieter
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | After going to the traffic administration to get my Beast back to the road, this Sunday I did my first ride with my Beast. For about 15 mi I had one lifter tickering until the oil was on normal working temperature. I noticed as well that I got a gas leak at WOT. After a short investigation I got out it's between the carburetor horn case and the fuel filter. It could be that I didn't tight it enough last time I removed the glass bowl gas filter. I had no vibration from the drive train nor the tires. I thank Wizard for his work on my Beast very much. Happy Motoring! Dieter
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | Today I mounted a part of the missing or to be replaced door weatherstrips at my Beast. Next time - when it's warmer I'll mount the new weatherstrip at the A pillar and the auxiliary weatherstrip at the doors. Happy Motoring! Dieter
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | This night I went for a short ride (about one hour) with my Beast. It's a beautiful ride now with all weatherstrips in place. Because it was not so hot I applied the heater as well. Ouuuhouuu - the heater is very powerful like designed for a Canadian Winter. The only torture is how followers are so close that they could almost push me at 50 mph. That's crowded Switzerland... Happy Restoring! Dieter |
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | On Friday evening I went for another short ride to drive the roads closed from Saturday to Sunday due to the Hittnau classic car meeting (http://www.oldtimerclassic.ch/). My Beast runs like hell when I hit the kick down at about 30 mph to accelerate up to about 65/70 mph (in the first gear). I did so at a straight sectioin of the road to pass a quite slow scooter. So many workers of the organisation went out of the tent to look what roars by. When there is almost no traffic it's a big pleasure to ride my Beast . Happy Restoring! Dieter
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Location: North Australia | A very handsome car, good to see pics of it out on the road. Good work getting it road worthy.
Steve. |
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | Thanks a lot. After sitting 2.5 years (out of traffic due to a pending test at the road certification office - no time because I'm working every day) I got the license plates from my Mum (quit driving a car with little bit more than 80 years old). Pending test at the road certification office is May 20th this year. I got a new mesh in the radiator, sealed the glass filter at the carburetor, installed new cooling hoses (upper one to the radiator only). Now the fuel system is sealed, as well the fuel system. First when I started the engine, fuel spilled all around the glass filter to the engine (like a waterfall - at least I knew, the fuel pump still is working and providing more than enough). The seal is still flexible and soft. So I just cleaned the gasket and both surfaces (filter case and glass bowl). I installed one new boot at the pivot of the steering gear arm to the steering linkage. For the othe side (idler arm) I had to order a one inch socket. I adjusted the front brake pads again after I tightened the spindle nut to around 70 pound inch (no value in the 1956 Chrysler service manual, but 180 pound inch in the 1960 Chrysler service manual). Tappered roller bearing need a preload! With too less or no preload the bearing will be destroyed (as with ways too much preload, and the spindle will suffer when the preload is non existet) According to the weather forecast, next Saturday morning could be a dry and sunny morning - I'll ride to the body&paint shop to clean the body. Happy Riding Dieter
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Location: So. Cal | I hate fuel issues, it's like money floating around in the air that you can't catch. You have a great looking car. This picture makes me want to own a '56 New Yorker.
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Location: Lower Mainland BC | .
Dieter: Hope you got that fuel leak stopped. If it remained an issue I would remove the Carter ceramic filter assembly and add a brass fitting at the carb and go with a replaceable plastic filter and rubber hose and clamps from the fuel pump. I ran like that for a few years. It was fine.
As for the spindle nut, in my experience, a Torque setting is the wrong way to go. You tighten the nut gently until it seems too tight (spinning the brake drum by hand) and then you back off the nut one tooth (so you can get the cotter pin through the hole in the spindle and the slot in the castellated nut).
Edited by 56D500boy 2021-04-18 1:59 PM
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | While applying a little bit more torque to the nut I was keeping rotating the wheel. At the glass filter I didn't just remove the glass bowl, but the holder with the tightening nut as well. I cleaned the thread and applied some WD40 to make it rotating like new. I dared to torque the nut ways more - and no leak anymore, no fuel loss within a week anymore. My plan is to keep the 1956 New Yorker until my 300 F is traffic administration office worthy. I will set it into traffic (order the license plate from the office) for few weeks every year (more my budget doesn't allow to not to hurt the 300 F restoration). I lost some transmission fluid as well, while replacing the umbrella seal I checked for the source. The transmission oil was seeping at the drivers side front corner of the transmission oil pan (because there was ways more time than enough to let the fluid in the torque converter flowing back into the oil pan). I didn't ever let run the engine within the resting time. Happy Motoring! Dieter |
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Expert
Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | This morning... first ride with my 1956 Chrysler New Yorker to the body and paint shop to give a proper wash. No problem at all, except a sticking hydro lifter (after a warm up of the engine and following ride out, a week later - all gaskets are in house, but no time). The ticking noise of one lifter stops after a few miles (first discovered at the first place to bring it into the state to pass the road traffic office check). Happy Motoring! Dieter
 (IMG_8612 freshly washed - first ride out.JPG)
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IMG_8612 freshly washed - first ride out.JPG (360KB - 161 downloads)
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9906
Location: Lower Mainland BC | .
Beautiful car Dieter. Very nice.
As for the lifter noise, it would seem that you have one lifter that leaks down and needs time (and oil pressure) to get pumped up again. Perhaps it is dirty? Some suggest using an oil additive with a detergent formula to clean out sludge etc, then doing an oil and filter change after running with the oil additive for a day or two.
I am sure there will be better suggestions to follow by others.
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Expert
Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Prior to the resting time I changed the engine oil and oil filter. Actually in the engine is Panolin SAE 30 oldtimer engine oil.When I park my NY with a normal temp engine and go for a ride again within a month ore more, no lifter noise appears. Just when I run the engine in stand still of the NY to partial normal temperature and let it sit for at least one day, I'll hear the lifter noise of one cylinder. This engine oil will be in the engine for about 1500 mls. Happy Motoring! Dieter |
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Expert
Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | I got the registration renewal today as a Historic vehicle for another 7 (seven) years. Two subjects to solve... a) looking into the lower passenger door hinge opening, there is surface rust - I assume there was never ever color on that spot b) rear drivers side gard of the bumper has a small peeling off of chrome (either a dent from the back that cracked the chrome plating, or corrosion) Soon, after one more ride with my NY it will go to the winter break (after refilling the fuel tank). Happy Motoring! Dieter |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9906
Location: Lower Mainland BC | di_ch_NY56 - 2021-05-20 11:36 AM
Two subjects to solve...
a) looking into the lower passenger door hinge opening, there is surface rust - I assume there was never ever color on that spot
b) rear drivers side guard of the bumper has a small peeling off of chrome (either a dent from the back that cracked the chrome plating, or corrosion)
Dieter:
a) On the door surface rust issue, at the very least you might want to spray some Rust Converter onto the surface rust to slow it down. However, it would be better in the long run if you removed the door panel and really went crazy cleaning up the inside of the door as per this thread:
http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=64336&...
b) On the bumper issue, you might want to review this thread:
http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=75856&...
If I was you, the very least I would do would be to remove that guard and derust the back side and then paint it with an anti-rust paint to slow down the problem. A better solution would be to get the guard rechromed.
I will email you about the front U-joint for your F
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