In this single thread I will give in steps some hints to get a nicer outfit of your car, as I did on my 1959 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer Convertible, useful also for other FWL-Cars (may-be already applied by others).

Human Ladies look mostly more attractive when some personal features are accentuated. The same will happen with your car when restoring and invest a little effort (not money) in the outfit.

First I present a general picture of the Interior.

(DSC00156L.jpg)

DSC00156L.jpg (118KB - 899 downloads)

Steering Wheel: (this is also an answer to "Steering Wheel Restoration")

The Steering Wheel is the "first" Interface to your car. It's mostly the first item you see when looking inside a car. Thus, the color should match the Interior, give a pleasant feeling when steering, look handsome and keep these attributes. Even with a broken Steering Wheel this can be acchieved easily.

- Fill the broken parts with a two Component resine (the stability is given by the iron core).

- take a rest of your Upholstery Material (or similar) and cover it with. You can bond with contact adhesive or cord it, the splice being in the rear side of the Stering Wheel (as shown in the picture). 

(DSC00156 Steering Wheel.jpg)

DSC00156 Steering Wheel.jpg (94KB - 878 downloads)

Mirror-Matic: No visible Cable from the Mirror-Matic to the Dashboard. Drill a duct inside the Stand (about 3.5mm) and use a high flexible isolated wire.

(to know: Mirror-Matic is always ON. The OFF Switch just interrupts the Control Signal.  I have a separate OFF Switch under the Dashboard to save Tube Life and Current)

(DSC00156 Stand MirrorMatic.jpg)

DSC00156 Stand MirrorMatic.jpg (70KB - 911 downloads)

Side Mouldings: Again, filled with Brillant Black Color.

(DSC00026 Side Moulding 1.jpg)

(DSC00026 Side Moulding 2.jpg)

DSC00026 Side Moulding 1.jpg (96KB - 895 downloads)

DSC00026 Side Moulding 2.jpg (98KB - 917 downloads)

Swen answered:The Mirrormatic shall be connected to the H terminal on the light switch Serge - that means that it's only on when you run with the lights on.

That's correct. May-be my Current-Source is still from there. But at lights ON the Tube is always ON even when not using.

Arm Rests: Originally the Arm Rests have been black and I coated them accordingly.  Later I found white  with the same Upholstery Material looks "gentler" and I coated them again over the black coating (see picture). The problem is that the coating has to go around curves and corners. I applied on both sides Contact Glue. Usually must wait till dry and then apply. In this case put enough Contact Glue and then put directly together. Now the coating getting softer you can move, stretch and pull the coating around the corners removing all plyings. Then fix all around with Masking Tape and let it be for a week.

Recently I purchased in eBay a pair of Arm Rests in black as "Original Reserve". I couldn't see on the Pics and I didn't know, this was an older, one piece Arm Rest in Rubber Material. This ones cannot be coated partially without seeing the abrupt cut.

The all unicolor, white or another color, gives a harmonic impression of the Interior. The Arm Rests, the Steering Wheel, as the Door Panels, and when a Convertible also the Top Cover, all contribute to an outstanding Outfit.

(DSC00154 Arm Rests 1.jpg)

(DSC00154 Arm Rest 2.jpg)

(DSC01941 Arm Rest.jpg)

(DSC01945L.jpg)

DSC00154 Arm Rests 1.jpg (98KB - 909 downloads)

DSC00154 Arm Rest 2.jpg (75KB - 916 downloads)

DSC01941 Arm Rest.jpg (82KB - 886 downloads)

DSC01945L.jpg (61KB - 891 downloads)

Dashboard: My Dashboard was broken and hardened, due to age and exposure to sun. There was no chance to repair it, neither I found a source for a replacement. As the Arm Rests, I coated all the surface in black directly on the Metal after removing all the previous stuff. So, it will never brake again. I did a tool to burn in the designed lines, without satisfying results. I know this is not correct, but done perfectly and the best I could do at this time. Today there are best repros available in Sweden.

Can just say: my solution is for free!

(DSC00156 Dashboard.jpg)

DSC00156 Dashboard.jpg (75KB - 935 downloads)

Sill Plates: A Make-Up on the Sill Plates accentuates the Emblems and gives an added Value to this items, using the same Colors as already used. But first the Sill Plates have to be metal-brushed and galvanic anodized (elox). On the inner Side I pushed up a Profile, available in Office Shops and beeing used for binding or hanging big Pictures, available in lenght of 1m and in different colors, here in black to get a straight and rounded edge. Today there are very nice Reproductions available in Sweden, at the time not disposable. As far I saw not painted.

Can say again: This way is for free and looks nice!

(DSC01946 Sill Plate 1.jpg)

(DSC01946 Sill Plate 2.jpg)

(DSC01949 Inner Border.jpg)

(DSC01952 View Inside.jpg)

DSC01946 Sill Plate 1.jpg (81KB - 957 downloads)

DSC01946 Sill Plate 2.jpg (60KB - 1003 downloads)

DSC01949 Inner Border.jpg (70KB - 939 downloads)

DSC01952 View Inside.jpg (59KB - 929 downloads)

catman asked: Where can we get them? Do they make them for sedan models?

Kent in Sweden (des5859) is dealing wth this parts and can answer your question.

Bart, I put it here for you and all the other Dodge 59 Owners of FLK.Net. It was not an easy Job to get this from Original Promotional Pictures. Just make a zoomed Printout of the PDF-File, and you have the exact countours as used for my Upholstery. I didn't made any door panels, I furnished the original ones with comments.

As you can see on the upper picture taken from the PC-Display: Having only a A4-Plotter at this time (10 years ago), I divided the layout in many A4- Sheets and then stuck them together to get the Original size in one (about 10 A4-sheets per Seat).

- SERGE -

(Dodge 59 Upholstery L.jpg)

Dodge 59 Upholstery L.jpg (114KB - 1006 downloads)

Dodge 59 Upholstery.pdf (41KB - 984 downloads)

Hood: Correctly centering the Hood without damaging the Edges was a big issue, the disposable gap on my car beeing about only 0.06* for each side. A solution for a precise and durable positioning was needed.

On the rear end, the Hood was too low, when correctly adjusted at the corners.  I mounted 4 rubber bumpers, modified to the needed height,  left and right corner one, the other two according the picture. Now the edge from one corner to the other is and stay parallel in height.

On each side of the Hood I put a Round-Head Screw, adjusting the height for exact centering with washers. To assure a good and tight fixing the original centering rubber should be squeezed as shown in the picture. Now the Hood is exact centered all around, no cracked edges and no vibrations of the hood - a perfect fitting even at very small gaps.

(DSC02023L Hood rear before.jpg)

(DSC02037L Hood rear after.jpg)

(DSC02036L Positioner Hood Rear.jpg)

(DSC02038L Center Positioners.jpg)

(DSC02040L Positioner Sizes.jpg)

(DSC02024l Hood Gap Left.jpg)

(DSC02025L Hood Gap Right.jpg)

(DSC02033L Positioner Left.jpg)

(DSC02032L Hood Rubber Left.jpg)

(DSC02042L Final Result.jpg)

DSC02023L Hood rear before.jpg (54KB - 943 downloads)

DSC02037L Hood rear after.jpg (48KB - 957 downloads)

DSC02036L Positioner Hood Rear.jpg (37KB - 998 downloads)

DSC02038L Center Positioners.jpg (36KB - 957 downloads)

DSC02040L Positioner Sizes.jpg (36KB - 983 downloads)

DSC02024l Hood Gap Left.jpg (65KB - 1079 downloads)

DSC02025L Hood Gap Right.jpg (54KB - 907 downloads)

DSC02033L Positioner Left.jpg (60KB - 928 downloads)

DSC02032L Hood Rubber Left.jpg (53KB - 942 downloads)

DSC02042L Final Result.jpg (62KB - 942 downloads)

Another View of the Stand. Is this Mount / Foot as Original?

(DSC02022L Stand Mirror-Matic.jpg)

DSC02022L Stand Mirror-Matic.jpg (78KB - 918 downloads)

I just spoke to Jan Fridberg in Sweden. He manufactures Dual Air Cleaners and Sill Plates in Aluminium in a high Quality. His direct contact:

janfridberg@hotmail.com

Rear Lamps: Theses Golden "Eye-Lines" have already attracted the attention of many people, using the same golden Foil as on the Door Handles. For a Dual Tone Car the corresponding Color would match even better - and it can be removed and redone instantly, without any chemical or disassembly. Print-out the PDF-File on A4 Sticking-Sheet (will be 1:1), then stick one sample on the Color Foil (color-Side) and cut-out around accordingly. Before applying fold the sample in the center for best positioning, remove the protecting layer, and at the end the sticked sample. Good News for Dodge 59 Owners?

(If your Foil is heat-resistent (Laser Printer!) you not need a Sticking-Sheet and can print directly on the protecting layer of the Foil  Check first!)

Later on I will put another "Rear Lamps" talking on the Light.

(DSC00035 DODGE59 Rear Lamp .jpg)

(DSC00200L Rear Lamps.jpg)

(Dodge59 Rear Lamp Foil copy.jpg)

DSC00035 DODGE59 Rear Lamp .jpg (47KB - 946 downloads)

DSC00200L Rear Lamps.jpg (76KB - 966 downloads)

Dodge59 Rear Lamp Foil copy.jpg (82KB - 969 downloads)

Dodge59 Rear Lamp Foil.pdf (42KB - 939 downloads)

Screws 1: "No rusty Scews anymore!" I whished and decided to use only stainless (rustfree, 18/8) Screws where not excessive Stability is required. Most Platings (zinc, chrome, nickel, promat, etc.) on iron/steel Screws are not a Guarantee for no rust in a Temperature, Acid and all Weather exposed Ambient. The Rust is programmed as soon the Plating is damaged, what already may happen when you use them the first time. On a white painted Car as mine, any rusty Water will left visible Tracks. The stainless Screws are much more solid than standard Screws. They can be modified in Lenght and Head-Shape as you need or like it, and finally be polished, as shown when just having simple Tools disposable. Important for a nice rounded Result: the Screw and the Tool must turn in a high Speed and in 90deg Direction each to other.

The first Picture shows various Screws with polished Heads I used for my Car: Row3/5 Arm Rests, Row3/6 over the Head Lamps Dodge59,  Row2/6 Door Latch. Mostly used on FWL-Cars  Row 3/8-9 for Interior and Mirrors.

(DSC02045 Screw Types.jpg)

(DSC02054L Polishing Tools.jpg)

(DSC02060L Resizing Head.jpg)

(DSC02057L Polishing Head.jpg)

DSC02045 Screw Types.jpg (108KB - 970 downloads)

DSC02054L Polishing Tools.jpg (83KB - 906 downloads)

DSC02060L Resizing Head.jpg (53KB - 967 downloads)

DSC02057L Polishing Head.jpg (73KB - 887 downloads)

Hoses: There are many ways to get nice Hoses, using various Materials and Colors. The simplest is just to have stainless/rustfree Clamps and polish them as done with the Screws. See the difference standard - stainless.

You can invest a fortune for the Hoses using sophisticated anodized Aluminium Ends and silver metallic Hose Coats, instead of black non-metal as I used. This black Coat keep its appearance, doesn't get mat or show any black oily Tracks. It is not expensive, easy to assemble and gives a discreet Look. There are different Sizes availabe as shown in the Picture. Only the Radiator End Covers I had to make with a Rest of the stainless Exhaust Tube, because not found (cut and polish!). After first mounting the hose and then the Coat, the black adhesive Tape around is for pre-fixing and avoiding possible damage by the Clamps. The Chrome Hose End Covers comes over the Clamp, leaving the Screw and End outside. The Clamp can be re-tighten at any time without removing any Part.

(DSC02124L Vacuum Hose.jpg)

(DSC02122L Radiator Hose.jpg)

(DSC02125L Heater-Fuel Hose.jpg)

(DSC02130L Hose Clamps.jpg)

(DSC02128L Hoses Covers.jpg)

(DSC02134L Hose Assembling.jpg)

DSC02124L Vacuum Hose.jpg (87KB - 929 downloads)

DSC02122L Radiator Hose.jpg (85KB - 967 downloads)

DSC02125L Heater-Fuel Hose.jpg (116KB - 939 downloads)

DSC02130L Hose Clamps.jpg (63KB - 944 downloads)

DSC02128L Hoses Covers.jpg (108KB - 1040 downloads)

DSC02134L Hose Assembling.jpg (57KB - 960 downloads)

Wires: As for Hoses there are various Solutions to package and protect the wires. First I was suggested to use "self-merging" Tape. Then I listed up my demands for "tubing" the wires/cables on my Car:

- Add and remove Wires at any time without "restarting" the job.

- Adapting the diameter when starting with one and ending with multiple Wires.

- Possibility to Branch off a Cable at any position.

- Flexible,  compact and heat-resistant, in sufficient Lenght available.

The (split) Tubes I used are shown in different Sizes (the big Sizes are missing). They can lead from one Size to the next Size by overlapping. For "closed" Applications two Tubes are being twisted one into another. Easy replaceable to another Size when adding or removing Cables. To cut with a Knife.  Applications to see also on earlier Pictures. I think these Tubes could also be used for Water and Fuel Hoses!?!

(DSC02135L Alternator OneWire.jpg)

(DSC02136L Crossover Sizes.jpg)

(DSC02153L Wire Tubes.jpg)

DSC02135L Alternator OneWire.jpg (80KB - 940 downloads)

DSC02136L Crossover Sizes.jpg (74KB - 935 downloads)

DSC02153L Wire Tubes.jpg (65KB - 898 downloads)

Dual Antenna Gaskets: With my Car I got a complete Set of Rubber Parts. Most of them I could not use, the Gaskets for the Dual Antennas being to big.

I looked for a compatible Rubber Profile, best I could find was a wide sealing Strip (see Picture) with a useable Profile (Border Width 2.4mm, Border Height 2.25mm, Support Thickness 1.5mm). I cut this in the minimum Lenght of circumference (at Width 8mm). In the Middle of this Stripe I cutout a corner  to match the front angle of the Antenna Socket. With the Antenna already mounted but not tightened, I pushed fully in the Rubber Profile around the socket. On the rear, two other 90deg angles had been cutout on the job, the Lenght adapted to meet in the Center of the rear Side. (N.B I left the mounted Gasket in Picture Start Mounting!)

Important: starting with the Front, the front scew underneath has to be tighten first for pre-fixing the Rubber. At this point the Rubber should be pulled on both sides along the Socket to find the correct 90deg angle position, before cutting out. Finally the second Screw of the Socket can be tighten, as the first too. The Gasket fits all around as illustrated.

The Advantages of this Gasket: For replacing or changing, no Cables nor the Socket have to be removed. The Rubber is softer than the said Gasket and assures best Protection from entering Water in the Trunk. And last but not least, it looks professional.

I added the last Picture showing how to tighten the Socket, because hardly accessible (first fix a long screw, then manually tighten the wing nut, no tools!)

(DSC02170L Left Side View.jpg)

(DSC02171L Right Side View.jpg)

(DSC02154L Preparing Profile.jpg)

(DSC02174L Cut Front Corner.jpg)

(DSC02169L Start Mounting.jpg)

(DSC02202L Manually Thighted Socket.jpg)

DSC02170L Left Side View.jpg (92KB - 905 downloads)

DSC02171L Right Side View.jpg (66KB - 957 downloads)

DSC02154L Preparing Profile.jpg (50KB - 905 downloads)

DSC02174L Cut Front Corner.jpg (29KB - 913 downloads)

DSC02169L Start Mounting.jpg (69KB - 948 downloads)

DSC02202L Manually Thighted Socket.jpg (70KB - 966 downloads)

Rear Dual Power Antennas: Most Mopar-Owners wishes to have Rear Dual Antennas. Then, they would like to have them as Power Antennas. I must say: It is really an eye-catcher watching to these two Antennas when coming out together -  each one want to be the first on Top!

I felt a mess all this many parts, and thinking when must change the Antenna Bar (!), if ever a replacement is disposable. I found it easier to built-in a Power Module than to rebuild the Standard Antenna. I took two most used Power Antenna Units (new), shorted the Aluminium Tube according the Height of the Mopar Socket, drilled a bigger hole in the Mopar Antenna Socket - thats it!

Mounting - easy! Hold the Power Unit in the Trunk down-up first without fixing it, insert from top the Mopar Antenna Socket and fixed it. Now the correct Position where the Antenna has to be mounted is given. It needs just one long single Screw that leads direct through the Center of the Power Unit to the Fold of the Wheelhouse in the Trunk (see Picture).The lateral adjustment to be vertical was done with washers as distance elements (right side fits exact without any additional positioner). The two Antennas have to be parallel, view from ANY Position.

Now: A broken bar can instantly be replaced. Simply remove the visible Bar Nut and pull the old Bar out. When inserted, the new Antenna Bar is automatically fed in. It is in stainless / rustfree Steel, polished will be shiny (as earlier mentioned the Screws and Hose Clamps). In OFF-Position the new Bar goes more inside than the Mopar Bar. I feel this even nicer - and a smaller risk that an unhappy Guy will brake them. The Bar is a little bit shorter than the original one, therefore has a better FM reception. Both Antenna Units are controlled in parallel by a separate Switch, mounted lefthand under the dashboard. Before the Mopar Antenna was laterally weak being fixed only on the Bodys Metal Sheet by the two Screws of the Mopar Socket. Now, the second Mount by the Power Unit assures a stiff Stability all around.

To know: The Dual Antennas are originally RF-connected in parallel (Y). This worked well at the time with AM. With an FM-Radio Interference could occur. I connected the left Antenna to the Original AM Radio (Center Loudspeaker). The right Antenna goes to the FM Radio in the Glove Compartment (Surround STEREO Loudspeaker).

(DSC02178L Antenna Parts.jpg)

(DSC02179L Power Unit.jpg)

(DSC02198L Antenna Mounts.jpg)

(DSC02202L Antenna Connection.jpg)

(DSC02181L Bar Replacement.jpg)

(DSC02208L Bar Nut.jpg)

(DSC02204L Antenna Height.jpg)

(DSC02208L Antenna Full View.jpg)

(DSC00195L Dual Power Antennas.jpg)

DSC02178L Antenna Parts.jpg (56KB - 944 downloads)

DSC02179L Power Unit.jpg (53KB - 946 downloads)

DSC02198L Antenna Mounts.jpg (90KB - 910 downloads)

DSC02202L Antenna Connection.jpg (97KB - 939 downloads)

DSC02181L Bar Replacement.jpg (26KB - 1000 downloads)

DSC02208L Bar Nut.jpg (45KB - 921 downloads)

DSC02204L Antenna Height.jpg (44KB - 986 downloads)

DSC02208L Antenna Full View.jpg (55KB - 934 downloads)

DSC00195L Dual Power Antennas.jpg (75KB - 883 downloads)

Front Grill: Another "Make-Up" the golden anodized Front Grill. If like or not, just must see! I found otherwise too much silver.

Pictures taken at US-Car Meeting when won "Best of Show": Me and my 1959 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer Convertible.

(DSC00022L Golden Grill.jpg)

(DSC00037L Front.jpg)

DSC00022L Golden Grill.jpg (109KB - 925 downloads)

DSC00037L Front.jpg (99KB - 918 downloads)

Exhaust Outlets: Another tricky "Make-Up" or say Show-Element are the Quad Exhaust Outlets. It remember at nice, long Blond-Hair Ladies, the Hairs being "Dummies", but we still like and look at them.

I found the Dual Exhaust Outlets too much in the Center. Adding two additional virtual Outlets moves them optically to the right Direction outside.  Among various available items I selected these stainless Outlets because they matched best to the rear Side-Profile of the 1959 Dodge.  The mounting items, as illustrated, are also in stainless / rustfree Steel. This Mount System allows to adjust individually the Distance between the twin Outlets.

Here again: this can be restored at any time to its original state!

(DSC00043L Quad Exhaust Outlets.jpg)

(DSC00019L Dual Exhaust Outlet.jpg)

(DSC00069L Exhaust Outlets.jpg)

(DSC00013L Quad Outlet Mounts.jpg)

DSC00043L Quad Exhaust Outlets.jpg (66KB - 925 downloads)

DSC00019L Dual Exhaust Outlet.jpg (97KB - 926 downloads)

DSC00069L Exhaust Outlets.jpg (64KB - 894 downloads)

DSC00013L Quad Outlet Mounts.jpg (74KB - 873 downloads)

BigBlockMopar - 2008-12-31 5:56 PM To me, that convolute tubing screams late 70s enginebay to me and I've hated it ever since I first saw it. Definitly not a "Make-UP" in my eyes Pretty much same goes for the cheap Spectre hose-wrap. Yuk! On a driver, one way to get caught with fuel-spills in de engine-bay is to put that braided stuff in there so you'll never see the condition of the fuelline underneath. The rubber usually dries up and the hoses start to develop cracks and tears and can start leaking at/on/during the most inconvenient locations. Other than that, nice info and some good tips there. Thanks for sharing!

Nice open minded comment, Herman. You are right, many "Make-Ups" of today are crazy - not only on Cars. Some like it, other don't.

My aim with this tread is to motivate many Car owners to "upgrade" their cars with moderate effort, but visible effect. Here I just present what I did on my car now 10 Years ago, and I am happy when people look at, may find something useful and / or just state comments as you. Thank you.

Now to the Hoses: Yes, cannot see the condition of this hoses - nor of my veins!  Today hoses are not just Rubber as 50 Years ago. These old ones cracks and tears as you correctly alerted. The Material Technology has experienced extreme Developments in the last years. According the application there are Hoses in any other Material than Rubber (PVC, Polyurethan, Silicon, Elastomer, Nitril) for Longlife use. The fuelline hose I use is especially designed for this, it has already a stuff around, wraped again for uniformity reasons. Bought recently again for my new Dual Quad Project I will report here soon.

To the Spectre Hose Wrap: I liked this Design and have given my Argumets for. It was not a question of costs. Cheap doesn't mean bad. My Golden Coating on the Knights costs nothing, but is even more shiny than pure Gold.

Screws 2: Self-tapping Screws are most efficient in the manufacturing process. They are self-centering in direction and angle, in opposite to Thead-Screws. Nevertheless I have substituted most self-tapping Screws by stainless / rustfree Thread-Screws.

- no damage of newly painted body (rust)

- some holes got too big

- option for other heads

- higher precision

For this I had to insert the nuts (on body before painting) using a Hand-Tool. The mirrored item is the unvisible clip used in Pic2. Some outside accessible Screws I replaced with Intra Hexagon Head Screws (?) for they cannot be removed with any pointy knife, as possible with Standard Cross Head  Screws (see Rear View Mirror).

(DSC02232L Mirror Mount.jpg)

(DSC02231L Convertible Mold Mount.jpg)

(DSC02233L Convertible Rear Top Mount.jpg)

(DSC02230L Nut Press Tool .jpg)

DSC02232L Mirror Mount.jpg (41KB - 908 downloads)

DSC02231L Convertible Mold Mount.jpg (70KB - 931 downloads)

DSC02233L Convertible Rear Top Mount.jpg (48KB - 898 downloads)

DSC02230L Nut Press Tool .jpg (54KB - 884 downloads)

Window Rubber: Restoring another US-Car years ago I used successfully the same method to replace the damaged and missing Window Rubber. The lower Door Windows Channel was totally rusted. On my DODGE, the Rubber of the Pivot Windows was broken, any attempt with a cutted Rubber Stripe failed, the Windows didn't hold enough, at the curves the Rubber was shrinked and looked very bad. Thus I used again my old method:

I put black Liquid Silicon Gasket in the chrome channels. Then I centered the Windows inserting small wood positioners inside, on the left and right side, and re-filled the gaps around with Liquid Silicon Gasket. After minimum one week or even longer the Silicon should be hardened trough, remaining softish, ready to cut out precisely the overflowed Silicon with a Knife (not cut towards the window!) .

Now, the Window is fixed all around, absolute water-proof and exact flush with the Chrome Channel, even more accurate than using the original rubber because custom-sailored. I suggest this also for Door Windows when the Rubber Profiles are not available, or for repair leaky Windshields, Remermber: Silicon Products cannot be painted!

 Any black Silicon Sealer can be used, should be heat resistant within -40 to +180deg, UV and all-wheather resistant (look at the Specs). Now I just found them ffrom the Producers of "Automotive Gasket" in the Internet and post it (sorry only in German). Same or similar  surely available in US.

(DSC02241L Window Rubber.jpg)

(DSC02242L Cutting Out.jpg)

(DSC02243L Silicon Gasket.jpg)

(Automotive Gasket.jpg)

DSC02241L Window Rubber.jpg (68KB - 938 downloads)

DSC02242L Cutting Out.jpg (63KB - 950 downloads)

DSC02243L Silicon Gasket.jpg (54KB - 914 downloads)

Automotive Gasket.jpg (109KB - 889 downloads)

Rear View Mirror Glass: Restoring my Car I had to rechrome the Rear View Mirrors too and had for this to brake out the Glasses. I bought two bigger replacement Glasses as used for Trucks and let them cut excatly fitting in the now rechromed housing. To fix them I used again the before presented black Silicon - bonded and sealed in one! (on the Picture you can as well see in black the left and right Hood Positioners)

To add: I purchased two different Glasses, the one flat for the left side as used in all Mopar Mirrors, the other curved for the right side in order to get a wider viewing Angle (see Picture), as used in all todays cars.

Last Month I saw such a flat Mirror Replacement for Mopars in eBay, I post the Picture.

(DSC02246L New Mirror Glass.jpg)

(DSC02244L Curved Mirror Glass.jpg)

(2008 eBay Mirror Glass.jpg)

DSC02246L New Mirror Glass.jpg (63KB - 923 downloads)

DSC02244L Curved Mirror Glass.jpg (40KB - 948 downloads)

2008 eBay Mirror Glass.jpg (79KB - 924 downloads)

Four-Way Warning Flasher: Most FWL-Cars doesn't have the Option of a Warning Flasher, none my Car when I got it. For personal and emergency reasons this was a must and added this Feature.

Four-Way means that the Flashing Signal goes in four Directions (please correct me if not): 1. to the Front Left Directional Light, 2. To the Front Right Directional Light, 3. To the Rear Left Directional (*and / or Brake) Light, 4. To the Rear Right Directional ("and / or Brake) Light. Thus, the Flasher has to provide four separate Current Lines. There will be one Input and four Outputs Connections. (* this depends if Brake Bulb is combined with Directional Signal)

The same Function I realized it simpler by using a One-Way Flasher Unit and four Diodes, as connected according the hand-drafted Diagram. The Input has to come directly from the Battery +12V to assure an operation in any circumstances. The Single (switched) Output of the Unit goes to the four (twisted) Diodes. The Outputs of the Diodes are then wired  to the four Directions, as described. All these 5 needed Wires are easy to found under the Dashboard - no extra long wires required! Check with an Instrument by Switching on and off the Functions (Brakes, Directional Light) and be sure you take the wires leading directly to the corresponding Bulb. The Flasher Unit should have a good visible Control-Lamp. Best I found was a Unit, mounted under the Dashboard, needind a single Hole 1/2" for mount, and pull-out for ON.

The used Diodes 1N5401 (100V/3A or higher Values), Standard Types available in any (?) electronic Shop (about USD1.00).

To the "Make-Up" or better to the Show-Effect: The Red Knob is the Flasher, the Silver Knob left-hand the Clock-Adjustment, and next you see the Switch S. This Swicht by-passes the Flashing (not the Diodes!!!), all Lamps around are continuous ON for "Show-Time" at evening, at Night or for Night-Pictures -Happy flashing with the Camera.

(The Headlamps have to be swichted ON separately, the last Switch L add the two other Headlamps).

(DSC02279L Flasher Switch OFF.jpg)

(DSC02284L Flasher Switch ON.jpg)

(DSC02285L Diagram.jpg)

(DSC02288L Diodes 1N5401.jpg)

DSC02279L Flasher Switch OFF.jpg (41KB - 908 downloads)

DSC02284L Flasher Switch ON.jpg (42KB - 945 downloads)

DSC02285L Diagram.jpg (60KB - 932 downloads)

DSC02288L Diodes 1N5401.jpg (32KB - 925 downloads)

Fuel Temp Gauge: I was always used to know how many km the car will run when the Empty Fuel Alert Light went on. This I missed on my Dodge. When restoring the Instruments I added a bright Yellow LED. In the Fuel Tank I had to add an adjustable Switch and a separate wire leading to this LED. In the restoring Process this was not a big work. First I wanted design a Trigger-Circuit (2 - 3 Transistors) switching on the LED at an calibrated Resistor / Voltage Value on the existing line to  the Fuel Instrument. Thinking this value could vary due to instable Main-Voltage (the internal regulator works imprecisely) I decided to go the "traditional" way. When OFF the LED is not visible.

Now, the LED goes on always exactly at the same Fuel Level - in this regard happy driving and no Stress anymore!

(DSC02305L Fuel Temp Gauge.jpg)

(DSC02306L Empty LED ON.jpg)

DSC02305L Fuel Temp Gauge.jpg (126KB - 960 downloads)

DSC02306L Empty LED ON.jpg (83KB - 989 downloads)

I am glad that you Swen, as one of the many highly experienced FW Lookers on this site found something useful, as I wished for all old US-Car Owners. I know, not anythig in this Thread fits the taste of the Readers, but "There's no accounting for Taste". Many issues have already been discussed somewhere, I cannot know, others are still open. Thus, go on (and all other Car-Friends) keeping inspired by reading these and next next issues to come.  - SERGE -

Head Lamp Flash: I also was used to have the Head Lamp Flash Feature, especially as alert to others in critical situations, mostly on the Highwayss.

Fortunately I had already a Micro-Switch Unit I purchased "with great foresight" in double many Years ago for another US-Car. It needs one additional wire leading through the Steering Wheel Unit to a separate mounted Relais. As the Four-Way Warning Flasher this Option works at any time, by-passing all the Head Lamp Circuits. At ON all four Head Lamps (both Bulb Wires!) work together to get the maximum bright Alert Light. It is not recommended to let them ON for longer time, the bulbs may got hot and damaged.

Sometimes on the way just say "Hello" and flash the Head Lamps.

(DSC02307L Original Directional Lever.jpg)

(DSC02310L Switch Unit Headlamp Flash.jpg)

(DSC00010L Head Lamp Flash ON.jpg)

(DSC00038L Head Lamp Flash ON.jpg)

DSC02307L Original Directional Lever.jpg (26KB - 979 downloads)

DSC02310L Switch Unit Headlamp Flash.jpg (71KB - 924 downloads)

DSC00010L Head Lamp Flash ON.jpg (58KB - 937 downloads)

DSC00038L Head Lamp Flash ON.jpg (82KB - 967 downloads)

Radio: To repair a Radio is not easy when you are not familiar with nor have equipped for. Fortunately I have some Tools. What you can do: clean the Contacts and the Potentiometer using a Contact-Spray. I have soldered a shielded Cable with Cinch Connector between the Max and the Ground ot the Volume Control, in Serie with a Resistor of 100k. This is an AUX-Input (also Output without 100k) for external Audio-Devices. Can use an (portable) FM-Radio and connect it there. However the Sound Quality will not be much better due to the poor Output-Stage of the Radio.

The Loudspeaker was replaced by a better Quality one. The mounts fits but a corner of the Magnet must be removed or will touch the Dashboard.

As printable PDF-File post-attached the Technical Instructions with Schematic Diagramm: MOPAR Radio 856/857, 6 Pages in 3 Steps (cannot Download 500kB).  

(DSC00051 MOPAR Radio.jpg)

(DSC00123L Radio Top View.jpg)

(DSC00122L Radio Bottom View.jpg)

(1959 MOPAR Radio 856-857.jpg)

DSC00051 MOPAR Radio.jpg (82KB - 988 downloads)

DSC00123L Radio Top View.jpg (93KB - 944 downloads)

DSC00122L Radio Bottom View.jpg (99KB - 929 downloads)

1959 MOPAR Radio 856-857.jpg (142KB - 1077 downloads)

1959 MOPAR Radio 856-857 1-2.pdf (175KB - 1159 downloads)

1959 MOPAR Radio 856-857 3-4.pdf (186KB - 1046 downloads)

1959 MOPAR Radio 856-857 5-6.pdf (153KB - 982 downloads)

Curved Windshield: I was already asked if I have a Curved Windshield. Yes, I had it, but mat as sandblasted. I coudn't find anywhere a Curved one and had to take what was available. Finally I learned to like the new straight Windshield beeng more slanted. In a certain angle from side view you even can't see if it is curved or not. In my Fantasy I have modified my Windshield to various Stretched Curved Models - the last Version 7 (Double Stretched) I feel exciting! Looking at, then back to the Original, the actual one seems to be very "old-fashioned". Just to remember: it's an Oldtimer!

In the Collection I left the entire Car Size to get an integrate Impression.

1. My Car today, 2. Original Curved, 3. Stretched, 4. Streched Curved, 5. More Stretched, 6. More Stretched Curved, 7. Double Stretched Curved (and additional Zoomed).

(Ross Roy-Curved Windshield.jpg)

(Original Curved Windshield 1.jpg)

(Original Curved Windshield 2.jpg)

(Various Stretched Windshields.jpg)

(Double Stretched Windshield Zoomed.jpg)

Ross Roy-Curved Windshield.jpg (70KB - 924 downloads)

Original Curved Windshield 1.jpg (58KB - 975 downloads)

Original Curved Windshield 2.jpg (99KB - 933 downloads)

Various Stretched Windshields.jpg (190KB - 946 downloads)

Double Stretched Windshield Zoomed.jpg (79KB - 1058 downloads)

Seat Ash Tray: As already apllied on the Door Handles and the Rear Lamps, the Golden Sticker on the Seat Ash Tray has its own optical Effect - a  (Custom) Royal feeling for Smokers sitting behind.

An Interior matched Color would be nice too.

(DSC00010L Seat Ash Tray.jpg)

DSC00010L Seat Ash Tray.jpg (75KB - 967 downloads)

Bumper Bolts: Shiny polished Bumper Bolts underlines a nice restoration. In the Sun or at Spotlight they may shine as small Brillants around the car. Some are less visible, other more.

There are different Types, the mostly used hardened Steel with a stainless Cover, then the rechromed and the all stainless / rustfree ones to be handeled and polished as the other Screws. For the main Front and Rear Bumpers I used the "covered" ones, on the sides and up-side the smaller rechromed ones I had already. Do not tighten to hard as I did: somewhere the Chrome of the Bumper started to brake around the Head, the Support-Arm being not exactly parallel with the Bumper. Should put a Nylon Washer for compensation.

I like the last picture and post it at higher Quality.

(DSC02324L Bumper Bolts.jpg)

(DSC02321L Front Bumper Bolts.jpg)

(DSC02323.L Side Bumper Bolt.jpg)

(DSC00006L Rear Bumper Support.jpg)

DSC02324L Bumper Bolts.jpg (71KB - 970 downloads)

DSC02321L Front Bumper Bolts.jpg (56KB - 977 downloads)

DSC02323.L Side Bumper Bolt.jpg (74KB - 955 downloads)

DSC00006L Rear Bumper Support.jpg (140KB - 1001 downloads)

Front Directional Parking Lamps: All the Insiders will have noticed that the Directional Lamps on my 1959 Dodge are not Original. The Lenses were partly broken, the Chrome-Plating on them washed-out and the Bulb Sockets corroded.

Then the Swiss Car Inspection claimed, these Lamps need a viewing angle of minimum 150deg (the bulbs are recessed and not visible from the side). I was committed to add two external Lamp I mounted provisorly with the Side Bumper Bolts - very ugly! Of course, after the Check I removed them.

In addition I could not find replacement Lenses. Recently one NOS went for USD 150.00 on eBay (!). The Reproductions I saw are correct in Shape, but not galvanic rechromed (grey painted), therefore not shiny as the Original. May-be today there are nicer ones. I had to find another Solution.

I purchased Lamps similar to the external Lamps, but with White Lenses. Then my Imagination led me to a Black Silicon Pot, fitting exactly into the rear Side of the Directional Lamps Housing, and sealing in all around without any add-ons. The Lens mounted to be 3mm under the Front Housing, as before not visible from the Side, but performing the Inspections Demand. For a brighter Light I painted ths Inside in white. The Lamp is water-proof, is quite in-line with the Cars Design and looks pretty nice.

 

(DSC00040L Old Original Lense.jpg)

(DSC02315L External Directional Lamps.jpg)

(DSC02317L Silicon Cement Pot.jpg)

(DSC02326L Items Overview.jpg)

(DSC02329L Interior Lamp.jpg)

(DSC00088L New Directional Lamp.jpg)

DSC00040L Old Original Lense.jpg (82KB - 977 downloads)

DSC02315L External Directional Lamps.jpg (51KB - 980 downloads)

DSC02317L Silicon Cement Pot.jpg (79KB - 942 downloads)

DSC02326L Items Overview.jpg (75KB - 1007 downloads)

DSC02329L Interior Lamp.jpg (95KB - 957 downloads)

DSC00088L New Directional Lamp.jpg (113KB - 978 downloads)

Your remarkable Comment as a 59 Coronet Owner confirms how authentic this Parking Lamp looks. One reason more to copy this in the case of a trouble with the Lenses. These Finger Nails belong to my Stepdaughter (15), I needed a third hand for show the matching Diameter in taking the picture. Not easy, because I have to take care not beeing mirrored in this shiny Chrome. Next time she must change to another Color!

I wrote:

"Dual Antenna Gaskets: With my Car I got a complete Set of Rubber Parts. Most of them I could not use, the Gaskets for the Dual Antennas being too big."

I just found these new, never used Antenna Gaskets. Now I wanted check if I am not too pedantic, taking a non restored original Antenna Socket as reference. The front Point is adjusted to fit correctly. The rear is about 3mm too long. Judge yourself!

In Comparison my Gaskets are "Rolex" for nearly free.

(DSC02334L Rear Antenna Rubber1.jpg)

(DSC02334L Rear Antenna Rubber2.jpg)

DSC02334L Rear Antenna Rubber1.jpg (60KB - 896 downloads)

DSC02334L Rear Antenna Rubber2.jpg (56KB - 828 downloads)

Rear Lamp Gaskets: No comments to the old / original Gasket.

I found High Precision Hydraulic Rings, self-centering inside, outside not overlapping at all, and they fit as tailored. The black Height of 1/4" is a nice separation between the White Body and the Rechromed Housing.

Another inconspicious "Make-Up".

(DSC02339L Old-New Rear Lamp Gaskets.jpg)

(DSC02342L New Rear Lamp Gasket Zoomed.jpg)

(DSC00091L New Rear Lamp Gasket.jpg)

(DSC00090L Left Rear Lamps Housings.jpg)

(DSC00008L Rear Lamp Gaskets.jpg)

DSC02339L Old-New Rear Lamp Gaskets.jpg (36KB - 849 downloads)

DSC02342L New Rear Lamp Gasket Zoomed.jpg (47KB - 805 downloads)

DSC00091L New Rear Lamp Gasket.jpg (42KB - 866 downloads)

DSC00090L Left Rear Lamps Housings.jpg (82KB - 850 downloads)

DSC00008L Rear Lamp Gaskets.jpg (91KB - 838 downloads)

Power Window Switches: These items are very hard to find. And when you have or found them, some Main-Connectors may be missing, often very corroded, bad for a good electrical Contact needed for proper Window lift. Thus, I modificated the single Pin Connectors, also in order to match to the dicker wire in Double Diameter.

There are many  Single Pin Connectors available in Size and in Shape. Round Connectors offer a better electrical Contact due to the bigger surface around the Pin. Here I used the biggest Round one (Yellow). Bonding to the wire it needs a special Handtool, or best is to solder them for best Tensile Strength, especially whe a high flexible Wire is used. Then I cut the Front of the single Male Contacts and soldered them on each Pin of the Power Switch (see picture).

Now the Power Window Cables can directly be connected to and removed  from the Power Window Switch as any other Cable. The missing or corroded Main Socket is not needed anymore. These Single Cable are of course as before accessible outside the Door Panel, when removing the Switch. Recommended  to label the Cables, the + Battery Line always to be Red.

This "soldered" Pin Contacting can be used as well on the Instruments Panel.

(DSC02361L Power Window Switch Connector.jpg)

(DSC02358L Round Pin Connectors.jpg)

(DSC02359L Cut Male Connector.jpg)

(DSC02365L Soldered Pin & Wire Connected.jpg)

DSC02361L Power Window Switch Connector.jpg (70KB - 853 downloads)

DSC02358L Round Pin Connectors.jpg (55KB - 815 downloads)

DSC02359L Cut Male Connector.jpg (26KB - 862 downloads)

DSC02365L Soldered Pin & Wire Connected.jpg (50KB - 832 downloads)

Fuel Pump: Many of you may have encountered the same Situation. You are attending a Car Show, enjoy a nice Day, and are even Candidate for an Award. Later Afternoon you go sitting in your Car, to drive it in to the Ramp or for go Home – many people around watching you and waiting to see the Car drive away. A first attempt to start the car,  a second time, a third time again, sometimes until one Minute till running  – what a Disgrace in this admired Car!

Firstly I decided to put a Replacement Electric Fuel Pump. Later I thought, one Electric Element more in the Pump risking to fail one day, and remembering my aim to restore at anytime to its Original when I should like. I searched for another Solution:

I added a second (electric) Fuel Pump to the already existing (mechanic) Original one in parallel. It is a Round Type with axial Ports, Inlet down-side, Outlet up-side, mounted by a Hose Bracket to the lower Generators Arm. The two Inlets using a Branch Connector (Y) lead to the Fuel Tank Line. Each of the other two Outlets are provided with an one-way Valve before joining together by using another Branch Connector (Y), according the Picture “Fuel Flow Diagram”. The closest +12V ignition-switched Electric Power is diverged from the near Wire leading to the Electric Choke, the Ground (-) to the Bracket Screw. The Picture's View is Down-Up, the second Pump is hardly visible from Top.

To know: As a matter of physical principle, at running engine only one Fuel Pump delivers Fuel to the Carburetor. It's the one generating the higher Pressure, forcing the other Valve to close and avoiding the Fuel to backflow. When one Pump is failing, the other Pump will take over at any instance.

First switch ON the Ignition, listen to the hardly audible buzz of the running Electric Fuel Pump. When the Sound lowers in Frequency means the Carburetor is adequately supplied with Fuel and the Engine ready to start. Can see when the Glass Fuel Filter has no Air anymore. Then go on by switching to the Starter Position. Now, the Car starts immediately at any circumstances. Furthermore, the already activated and thus pre-heated Electric Choke turns the Engine earlier to the lower Idle Speed.

Just start and drive away – and happy End of the Car Shows to come!

(DSC02376L Replacement Electric Fuel Pump.jpg)

(DSC02375L Fuel Flow Diagram.jpg)

(DSC02372L Dual Fuel Pumps.jpg)

DSC02376L Replacement Electric Fuel Pump.jpg (56KB - 886 downloads)

DSC02375L Fuel Flow Diagram.jpg (48KB - 831 downloads)

DSC02372L Dual Fuel Pumps.jpg (78KB - 870 downloads)

Power Windows Lift: This Option I won’t miss on a Convertible, when driving from a Land-Street to the Highway, being exposed all around the Head to heavy wind. At open Top all Windows up reduces the Inside Wind and the arising Noise considerably.

 On the other side they are a Show Element for Cars at this time.

At Oldtimer Shows you can see many badly aligned and particularly “tired” Power Windows, as very old walking people. The rear Windows are more affected than the Front ones. This difference is mainly due to the longer electrical Wires needed, but also to the Rubber Channel’s Friction they have to overcome, notably  the 1957 – 59 ForwardLook Car Versions Convertible and 2-Doors. My ambition was to achieve a Down-Up Time of less than 5 Seconds, and a Window not vibrating in any Position.

After some technical Investigation I came to the Conclusion, that the Original Window Motor, being powered at the lower Limit, could just not meet my demands. I found others, bigger ones, I had to adapt them mechanically. Then I restored the small Window Rollers and all Window Channels.

The Window Channels I squeezed in Height and Width in order to get a clearance of about 1mm to the Rollers. This required a precise alignment to the Doors (Front) and the Body (Rear), so as the Windows could be moved easily by Hand up and down, before installing the Motors. The Channels and Rollers I lubricated with Silicon Grease. The wires I changed to double Diameter and adapted the Pin Connections to the Power Window Switches as already posted earlier, all this for a minimum Voltage Loss due to the Higher Currents. The Main Power Supply I attached at the Convertible Top Switch Unit, after the Thermostatic Interruptor, but before the Top Switch, in order to disconnect the Circuit in Lock Situations or excessive Current drain.

Now I could start the first Test: The Windows lifted up and Down like “young Dogs”, achieving my stated goal, but . . . .

At the lower and upper End, as the Windows are forced to stop by the Stoppers at full Electric Power, the Motor Gear spun risking to damage the Pinion. Fortunately I found the sole correct Solution: at each End, up and down, I mounted a High Current Micro Switch (25A) with a long Lever  (Picture from Internet). Instead to adjust the mechanical Stoppers for End Positions, I have accordingly only to bend the Levers of the Micro Switches to stop correctly.

Now:

- Fine Adjustment and precice Position of the Window at “open” and “closed”.

- No excessive Current at Stop, saving the Switch Contacts

- No needless mechanical Pression and thus Deformation in the End Positions.

- No “stroke with a hammer” at End Stop, but smooth and soundless.

- The maximum Down-Up Time is 4 Seconds.

- No Time Difference on Rear Window Right, when operated with Main Driver Switch or local Switch (longest wire).

But must admit that the Rear Windows upper Edge may injure the Rubber Channel when not aligned and lifting up, due to the Powerful Motor. Edge should be rounded.

 (Sorry that could not take Inside Pictures)

(Power Micro Switch L.jpg)

(DSC02378L Windows Left Up.jpg)

(DSC02381L Window up Rubber Parallelity.jpg)

(DSC02383L Front Left Windows Alignment.jpg)

(DSC02379L Rear Right Windows Alignment.jpg)

Power Micro Switch L.jpg (60KB - 891 downloads)

DSC02378L Windows Left Up.jpg (75KB - 860 downloads)

DSC02381L Window up Rubber Parallelity.jpg (70KB - 873 downloads)

DSC02383L Front Left Windows Alignment.jpg (82KB - 863 downloads)

DSC02379L Rear Right Windows Alignment.jpg (66KB - 845 downloads)

Horns: The rechromed Covers in Combination with the painted Body looks great, even at other Colors than Golden. This Improvement makes only sense when the Horns are mounted on the Top as shown. Otherwise they are not visible, and even may disturb the appearing of the Front Grill’s Profile when located behind. In that case the Horns are at best in Black.

(DSC02386L Chrome Golden Horn.jpg)

(DSC02391L Horn Positions.jpg)

DSC02386L Chrome Golden Horn.jpg (84KB - 861 downloads)

DSC02391L Horn Positions.jpg (88KB - 849 downloads)

Walt, there is no relay nor a shut off switch. The electric pump will be off when the Ignition Switch is set to off. I don't know if a separate (automatic) shut-off is imperatively needed for the case of Collision. I was even not thinking at and  never heard about this issue. It's a matter to give some thought to and start a discussion in another thread(?).

Thank you for this indication. - SERGE -

Spot Killer: You have certainly noticed the pure black Color on the Front Medaillon. This didn’t look always as nice, especially after a longer Trip. Color may be partly removed. This happens as well to other painted items of the Car.

To remove this Spots “on the Road” just use a standard water-proof Felt Marker. They are available in various Colors and Sizes. If the Color doesn’t match, use the one with the darker note, will be less visible than the brighter one. Always best matched Color: Black is black!

This Correction can be useful for the Exterior as for the Interior. It’s a fast way, dries instantly and doesn’t dish up. Thus, keep your Felt Marker always ready in the Car.

This is verbally an “applied Make-Up”.

(DSC00053L Never Spots Killed.jpg)

(DSC00022L Spot Killer.jpg)

(DSC02419L Water-Proof Felt Markers.jpg)

DSC00053L Never Spots Killed.jpg (43KB - 838 downloads)

DSC00022L Spot Killer.jpg (64KB - 827 downloads)

DSC02419L Water-Proof Felt Markers.jpg (40KB - 846 downloads)

Power Windows Micro Switch: I have found the (broken) Test Switch (25A) and post some Pictures on special Request.

The Switch is mounted at the same side as the Window Channels with two Scews, on the left or on the right side, according the Windows side. The Lever is optional (the two small mounting Screws are missing in the Pics). I have added a Side Arm for the Windows Pressing. The Interruption happens within the flexible Range of the Lever, no mechanical Forces on the Switch at all, a smooth Transition. The lower existing original Positioner is to be adjusted just to touch the Windows Edge when stopped. Let there the damping Rubber anyway.

The wires are connected at the Switches sides and fixed with the Screw underneath, as well known from plug connectors. The bigger flexible Wire as showed in "Power Window Switches" is correct for these Holes (tin the Ends).The yellow Meter simulates the Windows Edge, activating the Switch when lifting downwards. By bending the Lever (or moving the Switch) the Stop Position is fine-adjustable.  There are two Micro Switches per Window, one for the DOWN and the other for the UP Stop.

A simple and reliable Installation, and it works excellent. Good Luck.

(DSC02424l Micro Switch No Lever.jpg)

(DSC02422L Micro Switch Levers.jpg)

(DSC02423L Switch Side View.jpg)

(DSC02425L Wire Connections.jpg)

(DSC02426L Downward Switching .jpg)

(DSC02430L Micro Switch Label.jpg)

DSC02424l Micro Switch No Lever.jpg (63KB - 803 downloads)

DSC02422L Micro Switch Levers.jpg (68KB - 792 downloads)

DSC02423L Switch Side View.jpg (48KB - 800 downloads)

DSC02425L Wire Connections.jpg (63KB - 793 downloads)

DSC02426L Downward Switching .jpg (35KB - 846 downloads)

DSC02430L Micro Switch Label.jpg (47KB - 800 downloads)

Paint for Horns and Air Cleaner: On special Request.

Golden: KRYLON Brass Metallic 2204 (is brighter than the Gold Metallic 1706)

Transparent: KRYLON Clear Varnish Coating 7001

To know: The first sprayed brillant Gold  will be affected by the transparent Coating. A among many Tests the best Result got with 7001, the 2204 dried out. If not transparent coated the Metallic Surface Brillancy diminishes, even may disappear when cleaning or touching. This second Layer apply at least two times, later it can be polished when get mat.

Power Lock: This is another Feature, as the Power Window Lifts, I won’t miss in my ’59 Dodge.

There are various Kits available with all needed items, including the wiring Harness. I saw even Kits including a Remote Control. What you see is a four Door Kit. The Single Units are mounted inside the Door, under the Door Lock, very easy to install. The only Handicap when there is no wiring at all to the Doors. A high flexible, floating Connection.near the lower Door Hinge helps. Thinking ahead I had already provided many supplement Cables when wiring the Power Window Lifts (for Loudspeakers, Power Lock and various Control / Switch Units when required).

This Power Lock Option is not visible at all and doesn’t need any exterior Switch. All Doors unlock when the Car is being opened by the Key from Outside, or by the Inside Door Handle (Up). They lock when closing correspondingly. Thus, the Power Locks can be activated from outside at open Windows too by moving the Inside Door Handles up or down.

To Know: In this Configuration all Doors have the same State, closed or opened. When disconnecting the Battery and then reconnect, for security reasons, all Locks are turned to the Closed State.

Now, not a visible Improvement, but no Problems anymore with a closed Door on the other Side. And it works!

(Sorry here again, could not take Pictures from inside)

(Power Lock Kit .jpg)

Power Lock Kit .jpg (84KB - 790 downloads)

Emblem Studs: In Pot Metal they are damageable when mounting the Emblem using the Self Tapping Nuts another time..And what a Frustration when a Stud go broken! To prevent this I tapped Screw Threadings on any Emblem. Further more it's a smoother feeling to tighten softly.

Sample shown on the Chevron Emblem.

To know: Side Emblems are mostly in Duals as LH and RH. Some of them can be mounted at any Side, when drilling additional Holes. Finding later a NOS Rechromed Chevron, I drilled the additional Holes. Now there are to LH Emblems, not visible at all. Applying this way all 1959 Rear Lamps are interchangeable as well.

(DSC02482L Cut Thread.jpg)

(DSC02477L LH - LR.jpg)

(DSC02475L Symmetric Holes.jpg)

(DSC02470L Mounts Chevron Emblem.jpg)

(DSC00115L Chevron Emblem.jpg)

DSC02482L Cut Thread.jpg (71KB - 815 downloads)

DSC02477L LH - LR.jpg (75KB - 783 downloads)

DSC02475L Symmetric Holes.jpg (17KB - 789 downloads)

DSC02470L Mounts Chevron Emblem.jpg (73KB - 821 downloads)

DSC00115L Chevron Emblem.jpg (66KB - 751 downloads)

Moulding Clips: As the self-tapping Screws, these items had been designed for a fast Manufacturing, and are not suitable for an outstanding Car. They damage the Paint (as the self tapping Screws), go rusty and don’t tighten the Moulding sufficiently (rattling). The rust is programmed, the Mouldings are loosely and thus not close to the Body. And there should be no Gap at all!

I found stainless / rustfree and springy Clips in various Sizes being used to fix Aluminium Covering Profiles. Adding a Screw, attached by soldering (tin), this was the ideal Solution.

Now, these are not Clips anymore, but rather Clamps. Inside comes first the Grommet for sealing, then the Washer, and finally the Wing Screw, as well known from the Dual Rear Antenna, for easy fixing by Hand without any Tool. Of course all in stainless / rustfree Metal.

By cutting the Sides, they can be fitted to match the Width of any Moulding in the Range, even when the Clips are asymmetric, see “Replacement Sample”. For the Wide Door Mouldings I used two opposed Clips, every 3”, enabling to mount the Moulding from Outside: Down hook in -> push up, and then Up hook in -> push down = Fixed, and adjustable Left < > Right, as Up < > Down due to the Spring Property. They can perfectly be aligned each to other and at any time (see earlier Pictures of the Car)

This new Clip is to be tightened till to the Body in benefit to its curved shape and springy Attribute.

No loosy Mouldings anymore, no Gaps at all, and last but not least: A very pleasant Assembling.

(DSC02439L Various Rusty Clips.jpg)

(DSC02444L Clips for Alu-Profile.jpg)

(DSC02445L Clips Assembly.jpg)

(DSC02450L Soldered Bolts-Various Sizes.jpg)

(DSC02488L Application.jpg)

(DSC02489L Replacement Sample.jpg)

(DSC02505L Gap Rear Fins.jpg)

(Riveting Double Clips L.jpg)

(DSC02510L Gap Door Moulding.jpg)

DSC02439L Various Rusty Clips.jpg (74KB - 774 downloads)

DSC02444L Clips for Alu-Profile.jpg (43KB - 775 downloads)

DSC02445L Clips Assembly.jpg (52KB - 798 downloads)

DSC02450L Soldered Bolts-Various Sizes.jpg (57KB - 779 downloads)

DSC02488L Application.jpg (50KB - 778 downloads)

DSC02489L Replacement Sample.jpg (44KB - 777 downloads)

DSC02505L Gap Rear Fins.jpg (46KB - 774 downloads)

Riveting Double Clips L.jpg (30KB - 821 downloads)

DSC02510L Gap Door Moulding.jpg (31KB - 765 downloads)

Paunched Sides: All Cars at this time had more or less paunched Sides, best visible from behind along the Car. The Side Mouldings then becomes curved too. A Correction by heating would make it even worse. I tried a mechanical Solution to reduce these Paunches.

In about the Length of the Side Mouldings and under the same Position I mounted Inside a strong Steel U-Profile (W25-H12-D4.5mm). This Dimensions fitted just well behind the Rear Wheelhouse. As expected I didn’t got a straight Line, the max. Curve Retraction was about ¾ “. The Body has become very stiff and highly resistant to Stress.

Paunch reduced - but Weight increased! This is not a Make-Up, rather a Cosmetic Surgery.

(DSC02459L Profile View Inside Rear Quarter.jpg)

(DSC00221L Rear Side View.jpg)

DSC02459L Profile View Inside Rear Quarter.jpg (87KB - 824 downloads)

DSC00221L Rear Side View.jpg (70KB - 757 downloads)

Dome Light: A visual Gadget is the “Longer Light” Feature. A two Port Electric Box is connected directly to the Dome Light Switch and to Ground, being hidden behind the lower inside Panel, near the Loudspeaker (Pic). For easy Connection remove the Switch and pull the Wires through.

To know: This item can as well be connected directly to the Dome Light and the Box hidden behind the Side Panel (Convertible). Attention: Attach to the floating Ground Wire of the Lamp (has 0V when the Lamp is ON) and not to the +12V!!!

Now, closing the Doors the Dome Lights fade out after about 30 Seconds.

(DSC02514L Dome Light Switch.jpg)

(DSC02515L Dome Light Fading Out.jpg)

DSC02514L Dome Light Switch.jpg (132KB - 776 downloads)

DSC02515L Dome Light Fading Out.jpg (46KB - 809 downloads)

Trunk Lid: The Problem of the “Half-masted Trunks..” (2006-10-16 /d500neil) has already been discussed. There I showed my Solution using two Gas-Springs, on the left and the right side, needing only two Holes to fix them. The Data and Dimensions are given there.

I have already replaced them by the next stronger ones, when I covered the Trunk Lid with the same black Parket as for the Interior. Then the Trunk Lid became heavier, I had simply to replace the Gas-Springs by the next stronger ones. Just take out the Split Pin at the upper and at the lower End, then the Spring Unit can be removed and replaced by another one. This may be important when starting with too weak ones for an exchange where purchased! (the silver Screws fixing the Parket disappear when covered by black Plastic Caps, if prefered)

Now, the Trunk Lid when DOWN remain slightly opened (Trunk Light OFF), or stands UP again as before and in younger Years!

(DSC02497L Gas-Springs Lenght 275.jpg)

(DSC02516L Snap-On Gas-Spring.jpg)

(DSC02495L Front View.jpg)

(DSC02496L View Other Side.jpg)

(DSC02522L Interior-Parket on Trunk Lid.jpg)

DSC02497L Gas-Springs Lenght 275.jpg (52KB - 761 downloads)

DSC02516L Snap-On Gas-Spring.jpg (41KB - 746 downloads)

DSC02495L Front View.jpg (45KB - 726 downloads)

DSC02496L View Other Side.jpg (87KB - 750 downloads)

DSC02522L Interior-Parket on Trunk Lid.jpg (82KB - 742 downloads)

Door Weather-Strips: This items on the Car are exposed and visible to anybody, often mounted inaccurately. This stands out on the spot when they are not inline to the opened Window. Usually they are clinched on the Door, not permitting any fine Alignment afterwards.

This can be achieved by using Special Screws, flat as Rivets. I found black burned-in Low Profile Pan-Head Screws. Head Height 1.6mm (see on Pic the upper Screw), Diameter 7.8mm, Metric M4x10mm. The Diameter allows a mounting Hole in the Weather-Strips up to 5.5mm for an Alignment Range of over 2mm in any Direction, the low Height make it impossible to touch the Window, and the black Head disappears in the black Strip. 

Easiest is to use a Manual Hole Puncher for the Strips. First punch 4mm, then more Punches around in order to get the Hole bigger towards the best Position to the Door. Can have more Fixing Points as had before, but should cut at first all Threads in the Door. Now, as well simple and fast to replace them, this when the Strip is wrongly bent at the Ends or too much curved for straightening. (see Alignments of Door Weather-Strips above in Pics “Power Windows Lift”).

Another visible Precision Work on your Car!

(DSC02531L Low Profile Pan-Head Screws.jpg)

(DSC02532L Manual Hole Puncher.jpg)

DSC02531L Low Profile Pan-Head Screws.jpg (66KB - 799 downloads)

DSC02532L Manual Hole Puncher.jpg (40KB - 726 downloads)

Slanted Rear Seats: As far I could see, all earlier Convertibles have steeper Rear Seats than the Front Seats. This is uncomfortable to sit and furthermore this looks not inviting. The Front Seats are already steeper then today Cars, the Angle to the sitting Surface cannot be adapted for best feeling, nor with the 6-Way Power Seats Option. With it the entire Seat is rotated front- or backwards.

First I modified the Hinges of the Front Seat for a wider Sitting Angle. Then I moved the Cross Bar of the Rear Back Seat about 2” backward. In the Pics the fomer Original Position is still visible. In Consequence the Rear Seat Mount had moved up, the Bolt is now in an other Position and the Side Panels have been extended accordingly. The needed, interrelated Modifications at the Mechanics of the Convertible Top is reported later. (when you brighten the first Pic you will discover the Steel Profile and the Power Antenna Unit)

Now, a Comfortable Sitting and more Space too for the Rear Passengers, furthermore nice Parallel Back Seats, as well known from 4-Door Cars. All around happy Passengers: Let's lean back and ride.

(DSC00058L Overview Behind Rear Back Seat.jpg)

(DSC00058L Zoomed Moved Back Seat Cross Bar .jpg)

(DSC00058L Zoomed Moved Back Seat Mount.jpg)

(DSC00051L All Slanted Parallel Back Seats.jpg)

DSC00058L Overview Behind Rear Back Seat.jpg (100KB - 747 downloads)

DSC00058L Zoomed Moved Back Seat Cross Bar .jpg (47KB - 777 downloads)

DSC00058L Zoomed Moved Back Seat Mount.jpg (85KB - 755 downloads)

DSC00051L All Slanted Parallel Back Seats.jpg (105KB - 725 downloads)

Drumming Noise: I like Low Noise Cars, can listen to the Music, talk with the Passengers and hear the Birds when driving. In the 50thies they didn’t care about Noise as today.

I found flexible, self-adhesive Panels (50x40x3mm, 5Kg/m2) especially designed to reduce Vibrations, Resonances and this Drumming Noise. Setting them flush one with the other the Surface is waterproof. Except the Engine Compartment, I applied these Panels on any reachable Inside Surfaces: All the Interior, Inside the Doors, over the Rear Axle, on the Rear Wheel Houses, on the Rear Quarters (as already seen in “Paunched Body”), and Inside the Trunk, using total about 5m2 / 25kg. Then comes the black Interior Carpet above all, and finally the Mats tailored as the Originals. (the bright Flash makes the Panels appear in brown)

Now, not only the Drumming Noise is considerably attenuated, but the Doors sound discreet when closing, the covered Ground Surface has a new Look, and driving creates a compact Feeling as in a today Luxury Car. Can say: "Forward (Look) to the Presence!"

Knocking on the Car: "Is it Wood or is it Sheet Metal?". No audible Differences. This is not a “Make-Up” for the Vision, but for the Sense of Hearing.

(DSC02641L Covered Rear Wheel House.jpg)

(DSC02642L Four Panels Meet in Trunk.jpg)

DSC02641L Covered Rear Wheel House.jpg (117KB - 780 downloads)

DSC02642L Four Panels Meet in Trunk.jpg (88KB - 754 downloads)

Car Protection: An Oldtimer is usually at nicest when the restoration has completed. From now it starts to waste. It should be protected where parked for longer periods, even in a Single Garage.

There are many better and more solid Car Covers as the one I use. For Inside Purpose the Cover should absorb sand and dust on both sides, hence no scratches when moving it or hook on the Car; then be partially removable without the need of inter fold, and washable.

I found the “Auto-Pyjama”, 100% Cotton and fitting exactly to the Dodge. Cotton in best for polishing, thus the car will rather be polished than scratched when covering, or rubbing the edges.

The ’59 Dodge Custom Royal has particularly critical Chrome Edges: the Front Eye-Brows and the Rear Fins. When not covered I protect them by coating with an static-adhesive thin Transparent Foil, well known as used in the Kitchen for Foods. Recommended on long Trips at high Speed too, preventing the Eye-Brows to go sandblasted, as happens to the Windshield. This Foil is as well useful for packaging Spare Parts: they are protected and cognizable, no adhesive Tape needed.

(DSC02644L Dust Protected Car.jpg)

(DSC02648L Discovered Right Rear.jpg)

(DSC02655L Shiny Unprotected Eye-Brow.jpg)

(DSC02668L Foil Protected Eye-Brow.jpg)

(DSC02666L Foil Packaged Spare Parts.jpg)

DSC02644L Dust Protected Car.jpg (42KB - 763 downloads)

DSC02648L Discovered Right Rear.jpg (59KB - 822 downloads)

DSC02655L Shiny Unprotected Eye-Brow.jpg (75KB - 764 downloads)

DSC02668L Foil Protected Eye-Brow.jpg (72KB - 765 downloads)

DSC02666L Foil Packaged Spare Parts.jpg (55KB - 772 downloads)

Thank you Swen. You said correctly as is the rule: "The hard-core OEM guys wont change a thing on their cars".

Most "improvements" can easily be restored to its Original, even at the place. Others are not visible at all, many are for the personal comfort and security.  But I agree with them: at a glance the Car should show up as Original - and it does when required.

On the other side: "The (Car-) Show must go on!" - SERGE -

Rear Lamps: The Sockets got stainless / rustfree Bolts (M5) fixed by a counter-nut. The assembled Unit is mounted with Wing Nuts (no Tools required). The Lenses got rustfree Thread Screws (M4) too, the Self-Cutting Screws could brake the Lenses locally. As Gasket I used Rubber Sealing O-Rings, leading outside the two Mounting Screws.Two diametric notches have to be grinded as illustrated (Ring: external Diameter 85mm, Thickness 5mm). So, the O-Rings fit and seal as Originals.

I was always fascinated by the broad Rear Lamps on American Cars. As Youngster I could guess the Cars Make at Night, just by their Rear Lights. On my American Cars I wanted more: a Bright Red Glow. I painted the Reflectors from Silver to White, dispersed the Bulbs Light over the Surface of the Lenses, and removed the bright Spot of the Bulbs by a Sticker. On the ‘59 Dodge I wanted a similar Glow Effect.

First I convert the two Back Lights into Stop/Directional Lights by changing the Lenses and the Wiring accordingly. The Back Lights, anyway at the wrong Place for a useable Light, I moved under the Rear Bumpers, in mounting two adjustable, contemporary Chrome Lamps. These Back Lamps gives a wide white Light where needed to see at Night when parking. Beside the Exhaust Outlets I find their aspect nice and discreet (see earlier Pics).

To reduce the Spot Effect of the Bulbs I clamped a Light Dispersing Foil inside on the Lenses Surface (Folder available in any Office Shop).

Now, the Red Light got a Glowing Effect, another Eye-Catcher at the Night Cruise.

Hint: For a homogenous Red Light the Lenses should be from the same Production Batch.

(DSC02693lL Rear Lamp Unit.jpg)

(DSC02691L Zoomed View.jpg)

(DSC02684L Rear Lamp Trunk View.jpg)

(DSC02703L Notched Seal O-Ring.jpg)

(DSC02707L Dispersion of the Spot.jpg)

(DSC02673L Rear Glow.jpg)

(DSC02677L Zoomed Rear Glow.jpg)

(DSC00023L Bright Stop Light.jpg)

DSC02693lL Rear Lamp Unit.jpg (66KB - 778 downloads)

DSC02691L Zoomed View.jpg (68KB - 813 downloads)

DSC02684L Rear Lamp Trunk View.jpg (123KB - 729 downloads)

DSC02703L Notched Seal O-Ring.jpg (66KB - 739 downloads)

DSC02707L Dispersion of the Spot.jpg (43KB - 766 downloads)

DSC02673L Rear Glow.jpg (65KB - 745 downloads)

DSC02677L Zoomed Rear Glow.jpg (70KB - 766 downloads)

DSC00023L Bright Stop Light.jpg (89KB - 759 downloads)

About Dim: This is comparable to an opaque and a transparent Home Bulb, both 25W or 40W. Must check for the best Foil, there are various thickness and surfaces.

Attaching: Inside the Lenses the reinforcement for the two screws goes all along. There need two Foils, on one side and on the other side, round bent and just clamped in between. Cut the first “on the job” to lie against the Lenses Inside Surface, then copy all others. On the Back nothing, no considerable improvement. Can put a small white Sticker on Top of the Bulb to remove the bright Spots, see Pic: Bright Stop Lamp. Sorry, could not remove the Lenses for shootings -> fixed and risk to brake.

Car Height: Lifting or lowering a Car, there are many Opinions and Preferences. It depends on the Car too, and how the Design with the Side Mouldings already influences the Aspect.

On the ‘59 Dodge I found best to be about  flat, but never lower on the Rear. Thus, I set the Rear to be 3cm Higher than the Front (as all previous Pics), measured on the Side Moulding, Front at their End and Rear over the Wheel. The lowest Front Height was given by the Tires (235/70/15) just not touching the Wheel House when the Steering is fully turned to one Side. With the Air-Controlled Shock Absorbers I could lift the Car to the desired Rear Height. The Air Valve for the setting is intended to be mounted beside the Fuel Port, I left it in the Trunk near the Antenna.

For your own Consideration: I have lifted my Car on the Computer - other Prospects!

(DSC02710L Adjustable Shock Absorber.jpg)

(DSC02728L Air Valve.jpg)

(DSC00044L Rear 3cm Lifted.jpg)

(DSC00044L All Lifted.jpg)

(DSC00044L All Lowered .jpg)

(DSC00044L Rear Lowered.jpg)

(DSC00044L Rear Lifted.jpg)

DSC02710L Adjustable Shock Absorber.jpg (56KB - 805 downloads)

DSC02728L Air Valve.jpg (41KB - 758 downloads)

DSC00044L Rear 3cm Lifted.jpg (70KB - 730 downloads)

DSC00044L All Lifted.jpg (71KB - 768 downloads)

DSC00044L All Lowered .jpg (67KB - 773 downloads)

DSC00044L Rear Lowered.jpg (69KB - 800 downloads)

DSC00044L Rear Lifted.jpg (71KB - 749 downloads)

Removing Pits: When I purchased my Dodge the Pot Metal Parts have been rechromed over the Pits. Fortunately I could interchange all these Parts to a non restored Coronet. The owner was happy to get for free newly rechromed Parts, I too to have the Originals.

When removing Pits it is important that the Geometry remains waveless and as Original. If not, any unevenness will be visible when mirroring. I wanted all my Chrome Parts to be “mirror-proof” and flawless.

I don’t know how others remove Pits, so I did it my way. But first all the Chrome and the Nickel on the items had to be removed (galvanic).

1a Punching with Peening Tool: Take an adjustable Point Puncher and round the Point (3mm). On the Rear Side of the Pit to be removed mark a black Spot (Permanent Marker). Hold the item flat on a hard Wood Surface and punch on the Mark until the Pit has disappeared. Adjust the Puncher Force for at least 5 Punches needed. When the other Side has buckled out about 0.1-0.2mm, the Surface can be leveled by using an ultra fine Rasp (no Abrasives). Then polish, but only when the Geometry is corrected.

1b Spinning with Crusher: This modified Tool is intended for Pits not accessible with the Peening Tool, as some Surfaces under the Eye-Brows. The Rounding and the Height of the interchangeable Steel Nails can be changed as needed. Leveling and polishing as described.

2a Filling with Tin: Chrome and Nickel already removed, let apply a strong Copper Plating. Then put the item on the Cooker (kitchen), adjust the Thermostat to be about 140 Degree, and now with an Electric Tin Solder heath locally until melting, applying flux and tin (0.3mm /180deg, as used for micro electronics) just as much as needed to fill the Pit. Then remove the Solder instantly and go to the next Pit. When all is done, level the Surface as described, and copper-plate for the Finish.

2b Filling with Paste: As in 2a, the Surface needs a Replating with Copper to be cleaned in the Pits. Then, instead of Tin,  fill the Pits with a electrical conductive Paste (3M), similar as used for rechroming Plastics  and proceed as decribed.

Microscopic best I found the first three Methods when possible, because of the all Metallic Transition. In some cases a Combination of them is needed.

Once started and experienced with, it worked better than imagined. The final Brilliance of the item, when Nickel and Chrome plated, is given by the polishing of the last Copper Plating. This is most important Section for a brillant track-free Chrome. For that reason I have polished myself all Parts. For the Rear Lamp Sockets I did an Adapter to mount them on the Drilling Machine for grinding out thes many Pits. These maNot having Internet and eBay at this time I could not buy NOS Parts. Even these Parts are mostly minor pittet and have to be restored. Anyway, a good and friendly Relationship with the Galvanic Man is required.

The Chrome Parts on the Pics above show how the Geometry is restored to its Original, a flat undistorted mirroring surface all around!

(DSC02738L Adjustable Punch Markers.jpg)

(DSC02734L Pointed & Rounded.jpg)

(DSC02743L Modified Crusher.jpg)

(DSC02742L Inserts Roofing Nails.jpg)

(Rear Emblem L.jpg)

(Side Moulding L.jpg)

(Rear Lamp Sockets L.jpg)

DSC02738L Adjustable Punch Markers.jpg (51KB - 764 downloads)

DSC02734L Pointed & Rounded.jpg (52KB - 730 downloads)

DSC02743L Modified Crusher.jpg (34KB - 794 downloads)

DSC02742L Inserts Roofing Nails.jpg (49KB - 782 downloads)

Rear Emblem L.jpg (61KB - 737 downloads)

Side Moulding L.jpg (81KB - 753 downloads)

Rear Lamp Sockets L.jpg (81KB - 752 downloads)

Directional Flasher: It had happened to me some times, driving in my Topless Convertible to the Highway, and the activated Directional Flasher not turned off. Because of the bright Sunlight I neither could see the Green Flashing Lamps on the Instruments Panel, nor could hear the Flasher switching under the Dashboard due to the Streets Noise.

1. I connected a Miniature Buzzer (+12V) to the Input Port (red) and Output Port (blue) of the Directional Flasher. This Flasher Output leads to the Directional Switch on the Steering Wheel, and then to the corresponding Lamps, left or right. The Buzzer will sound anytime when the Flasher Switch is open and the Directional Switch ON, means in opposite Cycle as the Lamps.

When an electronic Flasher Unit (not a bi-metal) in used, then connect the Buzzer to the Output Port of the Flasher (red) and to the Ground (blue). 

2. The Buzzer can directly be attached to both Wires leading to the Directional Lamps too. Because it is a DC (Direct Current) Device, a Full Wave Rectifier (50V/200mA or higher)) must be pre-connected. It turns the Supply Voltage in any Direction to the correct Polarity. Even when there is one commun Bulb for Directional and Brake, as most Cars had at this time, the Buzzer will sound only when only one Side is ON. Thus when braking there is no Voltage across the two Wires of the ON Lamps, and of course no buzzing.

The Loudness is adjusted acoustically by wrapping something around the Buzzer and / or by hiding it under the Dashboard. To know: the bi-metal Flasher is short-circuit at no Current.

Now, the Buzzer produces a well-known intermitting alert, audible even in noisy ambient, no need to check the Instruments Panel, a relaxed Concentration on the Traffic.

(DSC02784L Rectifier & Buzzer.jpg)

(DSC02785L Wiring Diagram.jpg)

(DSC02747L Left Directional Light ON.jpg)

DSC02784L Rectifier & Buzzer.jpg (58KB - 801 downloads)

DSC02785L Wiring Diagram.jpg (68KB - 810 downloads)

DSC02747L Left Directional Light ON.jpg (63KB - 822 downloads)

Rear Center Brake Light: The new four glowing Rear Lamps instead originally two of them I still found insufficient for a Show-Effect, namely at Night. The next way was to add a Center Brake Light. The demands on this Feature, should:

- match to the body in Size and Color as designed for

- be easy to remove at anytime and at the place

- not leave any Marks when taken off

- show an intense Red Light in the same shade as the other Rear Lamps.

Among many offered Kits I selected the best matching one.I lowered the Lamp Unit by removing the bottoms Body, attached two springy mounting Brackets in thin Stainless Steel inside connected to the Minus of the Bulbs, and then painted the Body in the Cars Color.

The Lamp Unit is fixed by two Screws for the Tops Cover. The springy Pression of the Brackets hold it tight on the Cars Surface. Pushing by side the Center Chrome Coupling of the Mouldings there is access to the single wire leading to the Rear Brake Lamp, as Power Supply. To know: When there is a combined Lamp for Directional and Brake, as most Car had at this time, then the Supply should be branched directly to the Brake Light Switch.

Now, all initial demands could be completed. This additional Feature is another attractive Eye-Catcher and improves the Cars Show-Effect by an exciting Red Glow when braking. Another item instantly removable to its Original!

(my Digital Camera doesn’t like this high Contrast Bright Red!)

(DSC02803L Brake Light Unit Top View.jpg)

(DSC02799L Brake Light Unit Rear View.jpg)

(DSC02804L Brake Light Unit Ready for Mount.jpg)

(DSC02794L Brake Light Unit Connected.jpg)

(DSC02788 Brake Light Unit Mounted.jpg)

(DSC02786L Center Brake Light ON.jpg)

(DSC00001L Brake Lamps Side View.jpg)

(DSC00007L Night Lights.jpg)

DSC02803L Brake Light Unit Top View.jpg (28KB - 760 downloads)

DSC02799L Brake Light Unit Rear View.jpg (62KB - 836 downloads)

DSC02804L Brake Light Unit Ready for Mount.jpg (38KB - 823 downloads)

DSC02794L Brake Light Unit Connected.jpg (54KB - 781 downloads)

DSC02788 Brake Light Unit Mounted.jpg (33KB - 800 downloads)

DSC02786L Center Brake Light ON.jpg (45KB - 795 downloads)

DSC00001L Brake Lamps Side View.jpg (79KB - 790 downloads)

DSC00007L Night Lights.jpg (71KB - 772 downloads)

Tag Plate: On a nice Car the License Plate should be as nice, for most people look at this. The Expert however is interested in the Tag Plate. This Plate is as the Birth Certificate of the Car, an important integral Part and merits to be cared. What a Problem when this Plate is missing, I just read in another Thread!

When restoring a Car, many paint over the Tag Plate. Made in Aluminum, a polishing gives an additional decorative Character. It can be anodized in any Colors as illustrated. This Golden would better match to another Paint. (the lower Shadow is the Hood Reflection). For a fix mount I used Aluminum Rivets instead of Screws, polished too. Small effort, nice Effect.

Now, at the first glance the Expert will get an excellent Impression of the Car, the next Look at the Tag Plate he will be positively surprised!!

(DSC02817L Tag Plate.jpg)

(DSC01376L Polished Tag Plate.jpg)