|
|
| Vote for The Forward Look Network on the Mopar Top 100 Sites |
From: Daven Anderson
Email: 1961fury<at>Leapmail.net
Remote Name: 199.182.50.43
Date: September 02, 2003
All you really can do about 'sniping' is to make sure your FIRST 'maximum bid' is the most you're willing to pay on that item. Of course now on small items like CD's you can have a little fun. For instance, one CD I was bidding on was steady at $7 (my bid) for almost all of the auction. I just 'had that feeling' I was going to get sniped, so I entered $35 as my maximum bid. [MORE than any sane person would pay!] Why? Because most sniping software is automated, and many of the snipers don't bother to set a maximum bid on their software (so it outbids the previous maximum bid, no matter what it was!) The software works so quicky that even if they were watching the auction at close, they would not be able to stop its bid because most snipers set the software to activate in the last ten seconds or so of the auction. So some poor sot had to pay $36 for a CD I got for $10 a month later (and yes, I checked with the seller to make sure that he paid!). I wouldn't recommend that you maximum-bid $1500 for a pair of NOS '57 Fury hubcaps, because if the sniper set his max bid at $1499 you'd win and be on the hook for it. Auto parts are more than CD's most of the time, but I've still made sure that a few snipers have paid more than my real maximum bid on auto parts, not just $1 more than what my bid was for 6 days....
