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From: Hank Dozier
Email: dozierhc@aol.com
Remote Name: 205.188.209.168
Date: October 23, 2002
Ouch! Sounds like the reactor seal has a leak! To remove the trans (heavy) you will need a good trans jack and preferably a hoist, although a set of HEAVY-DUTY frame jackstands can hold the car stable and high enough to pull out the trans. The big trick is to remove the torque converter stud nuts, and you will need a thin 5/8" combo wrench for that. You will need to batr the engine over and take off two at a time. Once they are all off, remove the starter and using a big screwdriver or flat stock, lever the converter back as far as it will go. Then remove all the bellhousing bolts and take a piece of perforated strip steel and place it across the bellhousing as a strap to hold the converter in place as you move the trans/bellhousing rearward (assuming driveshaft is out and all other connections undone and trans mount loose, trans on jack). Bolt strap in place to hold converter, and pull back and down to remove. Reverse process to put back in (dry, no fluids). You can drain the converter and trans befoe pulling (makes it lighter), or leave everything in it, as I have found you will get fluid all over while draining in the car. For the shift cable, you either have to go into the trans through the pan to disconnect, or do it at the pushbutton (nasty crimp on retention bracket) and pullit out with the trans. E-Brake cable disconnects with no real issue after driveshaft removal and taking off the parking brake drum to expose end inside the shoe housing.
