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From: alumca
Email: alumcan300dhdd@aol.com
Remote Name: 152.163.194.209
Date: May 02, 2002
Nathan, I'll try and give you the awnser you are looking for, even though you gave me 'hell' for posting personal information, like you were the lead moderator. Anyway, A looooog time ago, (year ?) there was a discussion (might find it in the discussion archives) about Vintage Air and FwdLk era vehicles. When I was looking for a dual air set up for a DeSoto Rod I was building at the time, I caught Vintage in a big contradiction. Then they tried to lie their way out of it. Anyway I went with Air-Teaque, (NICE people) Kimberly Texas. I think the 'post' was about a FwdLkr wanting to either keep or do away with the OM heater and underhood box. And he wanted a unit big enough to cool and heat. I think I looked up what was available in BOTH catalogs and posted my findings along with both addresses, so they could make up their own mind. You want btoh addresses, I can get them for you tomorrow, that way you can get both catalogs. Mine are probably out dated anyway. Yes, definately a alt is a MUST, with any kind of air, period! There is a video tape, $20 (?), that tells the how-to's, in-to's, and any kind of to's about custom installation of air conditioners. I think Vintage sells it. The problem with older, ,30's-'40's vehicles is the grille, frontal area is too small for a condensor big enough to cool the inside area of a four-door. Plenty of room under those dashes, for the evaropator. FwdLk cars are just opposite. There is enough room for a condensor big enough to cool a building. But to get the evaropator hidden/w/'factory' looking vents, under a FwdLk dash, something has to go. That tape, and in the front of each catalog gives you info on how to figure out the condesor/evaropator size, in relation to cabin, (passeger comaprtment size), and frontal radiator size. ALSO, one OTHER thing has to be done for a EFFECIANT Air unit. The older cars DO NOT have this. Is insulation! Don't be like the 'red necks' and put carptet foam under everthing. That foam attracts moisture, worse than ugly on a ape! In the back of just about every car related book there are umpteen million companys selling 'Rod insulation'. Costs WAY too much. You can get three times the amount at either Lowe's or Home Depot for the same price. It's about 5/16" thick and there is aluminum type of foil on both sides, and a bunch of air bubbles in between, (the kind you just HAVE to 'pop'every bubble) The ENTIRE inside of he car has to be insulated. The Rod companys will try and sell you a 'special' glue to hold this insulation up. Nuts! You can go buy the cheapest 'Liquid Nails' you can find, work GOOD! IMPORTANT! There is a warning lable on the back of the cheap 'nails tube, fumes are guaranteed to kill you, heed it! Just plce a box fan in one end of the car blowing on you, simple. When a car is completly (especially the headliner, floor, trunk divider, and firewall, anywhere heat can get in)) insulated with that 'silver air bubble stuff' the evaporator doesn't 'work' as hard. Even with all the windows down, you shut yer door, it will sound like a vault door closing! I figure, both air companys have web sites (?) Let me know if you want both addresses. You do that and it'll be cold enough inside yer car to freeze yer petuties off! Save yore Confederate money boys, 'cause the South's gonna rise 'agin !
