Re: front wheel hub from the brake drum removal?

[<62-65-mail-list-club@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Good observations Ray.  Thanks for sharing your insight. 

Gary H.

>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: Ray Bell  
>  
>  Thanks for digging that up, Gary...
>  
>  The last link, where the guy has used a ¾" hole saw, has a lot of
>  discussion which I find so typical of these kinds of things.
>  
>  He had the hole saw go into the face of the drum just outside the
>  holes. He pulled the hole saw up before he cut right through so the
>  original size hole was left intact, if only in a thinner form than it
>  had been occasionally.
>  
>  And then someone suggested he weld it back up. Why? because "I would
>  be concerned with how the oem rim gets pulled against the drum when
>  you tighten the lugnuts--the nuts might deform the opening in the rim
>  without the proper backing from the drum..."
>  
>  A statement which led to the OP going to a lot of trouble with JB Weld
>  etc, and others looking on agreeing. But should they have agreed?
>  
>  To illustrate the fact that they haven't seemed to check out things
>  properly, I've included a photo I've taken of the back of a wheel lug
>  pressing on a wheel I have lying around. They are all like this, the
>  hole around the lug will be the best part of 9/16", then it tapers up
>  at the back of the nut before it goes back down to form the part which
>  bears on the drum. My picture shows that this one is fully 1.25"
>  across, way wider than the ¾" these people are worrying about.
>  
>  Then let's look at the engineering principles in all of this. The drum
>  is held in place by the wheel, it needs no locating to keep it from
>  moving in there. It is necessary for it to be centred on the wheel
>  register, of course, but the lugs don't do anything about holding it
>  in use. Just as the tapered axles don't drive through the key, it's
>  friction which takes the driving force. That is an engineering
>  principle and you can readily see the same thing in milling machines,
>  serious drill presses and lathes where they have their own tapers to
>  carry the work or the tools and they don't have keys at all.
>  
>  By the way, some of the people on the Forward Look forum assure me
>  that loosening the nut on the tapered axle slightly and driving around
>  the block will usually break the hold of the taper. Then, of course,
>  you would be driving through the key/keyway. But you wouldn't need a
>  big puller.
>  
>  Relating this to the front, such methods could be used to remove the
>  drum, it's almost guaranteed to be rusted in place so some patience
>  and thought might be required.
>  
>  The one area in which I would urge caution is in the base of the lugs
>  once the swage cutter or hole saw has done the job. There might be
>  sharp corners in there which will become stress raisers and might make
>  them subject to breakage down the track. I'd get some lugs off a later
>  model, they are easily found in wrecking yards or you can buy them
>  new.
>  

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