--Received parts from Summit Racing in a couple days - always freaky fast. And swapped out the voltage regulator last night on the wagon - charging 14V+ now............... ; )
So I will just add the new alternator to the parts stash for now..........
Mopar Performance Voltage Regulator P3690732
Powermaster 95 amp Retro Alternator 7018
I am running the constant output regulator because of the electronic ignition. First one lasted 4 years and about 3,000 miles.
From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of dennis.1963ply
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2019 9:01 PM
To: The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 100 AMP Alternators
Hello,
I understand wanting to go to a new alternator and stop with the rebuilt units. You have been getting some very good suggestions and comments however please consider your very basic electrical system Ma Mopar put in our cars.
Bypassing the ammeter and going to a volt meter is a good first step, the ammeters have been know to melt and cause problems.
You will still have the weakest part of your electrical system waiting to fail and with a larger alternator it increases the possibility of failure, the bulkhead connector.
The way the electrical system works is that ALL of the alternator output passes through the small connectors in the bulkhead connector to the ammeter. Then from the ammeter all of the current that charges the battery must go back through the bulkhead connector.
There are a number of ways to reduce the possibility of the bulkhead connector failing and the possibility of destroying your wiring harness.
Here is probably the best description of the problem and one way to reduce future problems;
If you don't want to go that far I did mine a little simpler. I am not suggesting this the way it should be done and anyone with concerns about what I did I would really like to know.
I disconnected the output from the alternator and brought it back to the large stud on the starter relay. Then I ran a wire rated for the alternator from the alternator to the large stud on the starter relay. I have a fusible link in the wire from the alternator to the starter relay large stud but really think I should change this a fuse, fusible links can be a problem when they fail. I bypassed the ammeter by securely bolting and the the two leads together that went to the ammeter and insulated them very well.
Now all of the charging current goes to the starter relay and directly to the battery.
I have now paralleled the wires that went to the ammeter. These wires now just supply current to the loads show in the link above. The load on the bulkhead connector is a very small fraction of what it was when all of the charging current was flowing though the connector.
ALL OF THIS IS REVERSIBLE, NO WIRE HAVE BEEN CUT.
The last modification I have not done yet is for the headlights. Adding relays is said to greatly improve the light output of the headlights. Daniel has a nice kit he sells and there are others on EBay but it is not difficult to build from scratch.
Here is a very good site for electrical diagrams for our cars:
If anyone sees problems with the way I wired my 64 SF please let me know but so far it is working with a 100 amp alternator.
Dennis C.
On Thursday, April 25, 2019 at 6:17:47 AM UTC-7, ricky.l.hall wrote:Think my remanufactured 50 AMP alternator is failing already after just replacing it again on AutoZone’s lifetime warranty. What is the point if they are just going to keep failing.
Anyone that has gone to a higher AMP alternator - what brand alternators are you all running? Was thinking the only NEW alternators available were chrome. But looked on Summit Racing and see several brands listed.
Tuff Stuff Performance High-Amp Output Factory Cast-Plus Alternators 8509CSP
Powermaster Retro Alternators 7018
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-7018/reviews/
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