Sorry for chiming in late on this. The '62-65 cables are all very similar with a few exceptions.
On the top end, pushbutton shift cables have a 1/8" hole in the eyelet. Console cables have a 3/16" hole, and column shift cables generally have a rubber bushing with a steel sleeve with a 3/16" ID. Pushbutton park lock cables have a long (3"+) eyelet with a 3/16" hole. Console cables have a 3/16" hole in a short eyelet, and column shift cables have the same rubber bushing arrangement as the shift cable described above.
On the bottom end, pushbutton shift cables have a very thin (less than 1/16") groove on the bayonet ("pointy part"), while the console and column cables have a 1/4" wide groove. All cables have the same 11/16-24 threaded adjusting end with the same threaded adjusting wheel, which was also used on some earlier cars. All park lock cables have the same adjusting ferrule and short bayonet with the same thin groove as the pushbutton shift cable.
The shift cable takes a 3/32" thick 11/16" o-ring, while the park lock cable takes a 1/16" thick 7/16" o-ring.
A couple of things to watch out for - the shift adapter (the part that receives the bayonet) is specific to the cable and it is used with. The pushbutton adapter simply captures the bayonet, while the console and column adapter has an internal spring mechanism that allows the cable to overtravel into the park position. The manual valve detent lever (rooster comb) is also specific to the adapter; pushbutton levers have a 1/4" hole for the adapter while the console and column levers have a 3/16" hole for the adapter. The pushbutton adapter fastens to the manual valve detent lever with a nut, while the console and column adapter fastens to the lever with an external snap ring. I've used the console/column pieces (as a set) on a pushbutton car but don't recommend it. Pushbutton pieces cannot be used on a console or column car as there is no provision for park.
Be sure to follow the recommended procedure for removing the park lock cable. Do not remove the 5 bolts in the park lock cover before removing the cable. Doing so can damage a spring inside and you're into more repairs than you needed to make.
If your car has original cables, the less handling the better. The greatest failure for these cables is leaking at the adjuster - any movement of the 60 year old plastic at the ferrule can cause a leak. If yours doesn't leak, avoid it.
Last thing is to get a service manual specifically for your car.
Hope this helps,
Steve
On Monday, April 15, 2019 at 3:47:00 PM UTC-4, 62-65-mail...@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
Hi all,
I know the 1962 - 1965 shift cable lengths are different. But are the adjusting wheels and the pointed part of the cable the
same no matter what engine is in front of the cable? \6 - A - B - RB
Thanks,
Gary H.
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