Re: 65 Ignition Switch R&R
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Re: 65 Ignition Switch R&R



So we believe we found the needle in the haystack...and it was just that. The female side of the bulkhead connector for the blue wire that goes to the ballast resistor wasn't making proper contact.

So we tightened it a little bit and it seems to work fine. Strangely I replaced the engine wiring harness (2) years ago. Not sure why a problem presented itself just now!

Thanks to everyone for ringing in!




Bill M
65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1
73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
14 Avenger R/T, 15 Durango R/T, 21 Model T Depot Hack

On Sat, May 12, 2018 at 5:38 PM, Bill Parker <hemirr@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Another little tidbit...if any of us buy a car through ebay, as I did my '65 Imperial back in '99, many sellers will put provisions in their auction description such as "binding purchase", "as is where is", etc.  In fact, in the eBay regulations on listing a car for sale, it is specified that all successful auctions of motor vehicles are "on approval", and that means on the approval of the buyer.  They state that a winning bid or buy-it-now signals the firm intention of the buyer to complete the transaction, but when the buyer is face to face with the car, if the car is substantially not as described, the buyer may file a dispute. By listing the car, the seller accepts these terms.


Bill & Kathi Parker, South Central Indiana

On Sat, May 12, 2018 at 9:24 AM, Jimmy Peavy <peaver63@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Ebay seller is required to accept the switch back because it wasn't as
listed. It wouldn't work.
They also have to pay for the return shipping. Call ebay, then keep
looking for a NOS switch. Don't mount it when you try it.

  Jimmy

On 5/12/18, Michael LeFevre <493mike@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Bill,
> Have you examined the wiring and connectors around the ballast resister?
> Mike
>
> On Fri, May 11, 2018 at 11:08 PM, Bill M <y1topbanana73@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>> OK...fast forward...I determined that the OEM switch is garbage and the
>> eBay seller won't refund my $ since it was "installed" (I guess around my
>> tumbler & key?) Whatever.
>>
>> So I bought a switch from Auto Zone. It ohm's out across the IGN1 and
>> batt
>> terminals, and I've confirmed I have 12v to the IGN1 terminal with the
>> key
>> on. Car starts but dies when the key is turned to Run. Bought another one
>> thinking something is wrong with switch #1. Nope...same thing. But one
>> thing I DID discover was that after putting my original switch back in,
>> and
>> then jiggling it, the car started and ran until I bumped the key. I've
>> not
>> been able to do that with the AutoZone switches.
>>
>> Any way...what the %$#$ gives? What's the %$#@ing problem? Every
>> aftermarket switch can't be bad! Plug looks good and uncoorroded. I have
>> no
>> %$#@ing idea what's %$#@ing wrong! Can anyone offer some enlightened
>> suggestions before I start bashing $#!t in my garage with a %$#@ing
>> hammer?! I just want to enjoy my car!!!
>>
>> Bill M
>> 65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1
>> 73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
>> 14 Avenger R/T, 15 Durango R/T, 21 Model T Depot Hack
>>
>> On Tue, May 1, 2018 at 9:14 AM, Jimmy Peavy <peaver63@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>
>>> Sounds like you have a 66 up tumbler, maybe the old switch was later
>>> than
>>> a 65?
>>>
>>> On 4/30/18, 62-65-mail-list-club@ornocar.org
>>> <62-65-mail-list-club@ornocar.org> wrote:
>>> > What's the  Mopar NOS OEM switch part number?
>>> >
>>> > Thanks,
>>> > Gary H.
>>> >
>>> >>  -------Original Message-------
>>> >
>>> >>  So I got to switch out and it was way easier than I thought.
>>> >>
>>> >>  The switch I bought is a Mopar NOS OEM switch with the factory part
>>> >>  number I found in my dealer parts book. The old one I pulled out is
>>> >>  not Mopar, but an older replacement as it says made in USA on it.
>>> >>
>>> >>  First thing I noticed was that the new Switch has an extra prongs on
>>> >>  the back for ground. Second thing is when I insert the tumbler into
>>> >>  the new switch, it won't turn at all. I'm really confused.
>>> >>
>>> >>  Thoughts?
>>> >>
>>> >
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>>
>> --
>> --
>> --
>> Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person --
>> directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and
>> negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended
>> recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone
>> using
>> the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will
>> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the
>> content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
>>
>> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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>
> --
> --
> --
> Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person --
> directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and
> negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended
> recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using
> the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will
> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the
> content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
>
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
> http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.
>
> ---
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--
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--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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--
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--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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--
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--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
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