Re: 65 Ignition Switch R&R
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Re: 65 Ignition Switch R&R



https://www.ebay.com/itm/65-66-Fury-ignition-switch-nut-tool-charger-Chrysler-Hemi-Plymouth-mopar/201969643076?epid=3004322255&hash=item2f06542e44:g:s54AAOSwwzhZVUPF#vi-ilComp

On 5/12/18, Jimmy Peavy <peaver63@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> 1963 parts, would cross over to 1965. These are some of the stocking
> dealers for 2 out of three parts.
>
>
> Part number - #2097628 Switch
>                        #2256449  Bezel   (not in stock)
>                        #2086047 lock cylinder with key
>
> ers with 1 out of 3 parts	
>
>
>
>     Dealer Contact Info
> CollectorsAutoSupply
>     Blaine, WA 98230	
>
> Brad Nos Parts Westcolumbia Chrysler
>     WEST COLUMBIA, SC 29171
> 	
>
> Arizona Parts
>     TEMPE, AZ 85282
>
> 	
> 	
>
> Deception Pass Motor Parts
>     ANACORTES, WA 98221
>
> 	
>
>
>
>
>
> 	
>
> On 5/12/18, Bill M <y1topbanana73@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>> Thanks for all your responses. Let me re-cap and hopefully answer a bunch
>> of questions at once.
>>
>> When this first happened, we spent a solid hour going over the wiring and
>> ringing out all connections and swapped through a total of (3) ballast
>> resistors, but to no avail. Engine wiring harness was replaced when the
>> engine was 2 years ago. Ballast resistor wiring is good and connections
>> are
>> tight. Everything came back to the ignition switch. I turned the key to
>> start, and held it there...the car ran. I then literally "jiggled" the
>> key
>> in my original ignition switch, turned to start, let go and the car ran
>> fine. Jiggled the key again while in the run position and it shut off. I
>> was then able to jiggle it again and take the car out for the day without
>> issues.
>>
>> So obviously the OEM switch was a bust. I ohm'd the AZ switch in between
>> the BAT terminal and both IGN1 & IGN2 with the key in their respective
>> positions and I have continuity in both positions. I have power to the
>> switch on IGN1 & IGN2 connectors. EVERYTHING i'm seeing so far (and I'm
>> NOT
>> an electrical expert) is that these AZ switched are bad somehow.
>> Especially
>> when I can jiggle the original and the car suddenly runs.
>>
>> Signed,
>> Confused as hell
>>
>> Bill M
>> 65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1
>> 73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
>> 14 Avenger R/T, 15 Durango R/T, 21 Model T Depot Hack
>>
>> On Sat, May 12, 2018 at 6:48 AM, Michael LeFevre <493mike@xxxxxxxxx>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Bill,
>>> Have you examined the wiring and connectors around the ballast resister?
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> On Fri, May 11, 2018 at 11:08 PM, Bill M <y1topbanana73@xxxxxxxxx>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> OK...fast forward...I determined that the OEM switch is garbage and the
>>>> eBay seller won't refund my $ since it was "installed" (I guess around
>>>> my
>>>> tumbler & key?) Whatever.
>>>>
>>>> So I bought a switch from Auto Zone. It ohm's out across the IGN1 and
>>>> batt terminals, and I've confirmed I have 12v to the IGN1 terminal with
>>>> the
>>>> key on. Car starts but dies when the key is turned to Run. Bought
>>>> another
>>>> one thinking something is wrong with switch #1. Nope...same thing. But
>>>> one
>>>> thing I DID discover was that after putting my original switch back in,
>>>> and
>>>> then jiggling it, the car started and ran until I bumped the key. I've
>>>> not
>>>> been able to do that with the AutoZone switches.
>>>>
>>>> Any way...what the %$#$ gives? What's the %$#@ing problem? Every
>>>> aftermarket switch can't be bad! Plug looks good and uncoorroded. I
>>>> have
>>>> no
>>>> %$#@ing idea what's %$#@ing wrong! Can anyone offer some enlightened
>>>> suggestions before I start bashing $#!t in my garage with a %$#@ing
>>>> hammer?! I just want to enjoy my car!!!
>>>>
>>>> Bill M
>>>> 65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1
>>>> 73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
>>>> 14 Avenger R/T, 15 Durango R/T, 21 Model T Depot Hack
>>>>
>>>> On Tue, May 1, 2018 at 9:14 AM, Jimmy Peavy <peaver63@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Sounds like you have a 66 up tumbler, maybe the old switch was later
>>>>> than a 65?
>>>>>
>>>>> On 4/30/18, 62-65-mail-list-club@xxxxxxxxxxx
>>>>> <62-65-mail-list-club@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>>>> > What's the  Mopar NOS OEM switch part number?
>>>>> >
>>>>> > Thanks,
>>>>> > Gary H.
>>>>> >
>>>>> >>  -------Original Message-------
>>>>> >
>>>>> >>  So I got to switch out and it was way easier than I thought.
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >>  The switch I bought is a Mopar NOS OEM switch with the factory
>>>>> >> part
>>>>> >>  number I found in my dealer parts book. The old one I pulled out
>>>>> >> is
>>>>> >>  not Mopar, but an older replacement as it says made in USA on it.
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >>  First thing I noticed was that the new Switch has an extra prongs
>>>>> >> on
>>>>> >>  the back for ground. Second thing is when I insert the tumbler
>>>>> >> into
>>>>> >>  the new switch, it won't turn at all. I'm really confused.
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >>  Thoughts?
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> --
>>>> --
>>>> Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person --
>>>> directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and
>>>> negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended
>>>> recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone
>>>> using
>>>> the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will
>>>> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the
>>>> content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
>>>>
>>>> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
>>>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
>>>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
>>>> --
>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>>> Groups
>>>> "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
>>>> http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.
>>>>
>>>> ---
>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>>> Groups
>>>> "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>>> an
>>>> email to 1962to1965mopars+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
>>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> --
>>> --
>>> Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person --
>>> directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and
>>> negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended
>>> recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone
>>> using
>>> the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will
>>> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the
>>> content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
>>>
>>> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
>>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
>>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups
>>> "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
>>> http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.
>>>
>>> ---
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups
>>> "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>> an
>>> email to 1962to1965mopars+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>>
>>
>> --
>> --
>> --
>> Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person --
>> directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and
>> negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended
>> recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone
>> using
>> the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will
>> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the
>> content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
>>
>> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
>> http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.
>>
>> ---
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
>> email to 1962to1965mopars+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
>

-- 
-- 
--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.

--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 1962to1965mopars+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.


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