OK...I'll try to answer multiple questions at once here...
Running a factory Mopar electronic ignition with a billet MP distributor.
The coil is on the firewall above and behind the the right valve cover.
The filter is almost horizontal, with the output end slightly elevated.
I have not checked the main fuel line's proximity to the headers, although it certainly has not changed from last driving season.
After the fuel pump was changed, I am not seeing the filter drain down, but it did stubble for 5-10 seconds when I finally got it started.
I'm going to go get an inline fuel pressure gauge, and will look into a pressure regulator.
Here's another tidbit...if I drive the car and get it nice & hot, then put in the garage overnight, it will fire up and run after literally (1) second of cranking the next morning, and does not show any signs of the above mentioned issues.
Bill M
65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1
73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
12 Journey R/T, 14 Avenger R/T, 21 Model T Depot Hack
On Fri, May 6, 2016 at 10:20 AM, Ollie <satellite1965@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> One thing that has helped my vehicle a lot is a fuel pressure regulator. Installed between the pump and carb.
>
> It keeps fuel pressure in the line even if it has not started in a week. Makes for instance starts.
> Just a thought.
> Ollie
> From: 'Paul L. http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-le' via The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse
> Sent: Friday, May 06, 2016 9:05 AM
> To: The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse
> Subject: Re: My Car's New Trick
>
> Re-reading your original post you talked about it stumbling a lot and being hard to keep running after getting it restarted. Did that change after installing the new fuel pump? You also said the clear fuel filter was empty as soon as you shut it off and opened the hood. What is the orientation of the filter? Is it sloped down towards the carb, towards the fuel pump, or level? Just wondering if the fuel in the filter is draining out one way or the other or evaporating out. Seems like it wouldn't evaporate that quickly. So either the fuel pump (old one) wasn't pumping like it should, maybe vapor locked or just a bad pump. What about your fuel line coming from the tank? Does it run close to hot exhaust? One trick also is to make a heat shield for the mechanical pump. I know Rich (LeRoar) did this on is poly. And I think there a pattern for it on the tech page.
> One other thing to mention, a friend of mine who drives a 62 Chebbie went through a number of fuel pumps before he got a good one. I think he was buying his at O'Reilly's.
> Frustrating isn't it? Best of luck.
>
> Paul L.
>
> On Monday, April 18, 2016 at 7:27:30 PM UTC-5, TopBanana wrote:
>>
>> So I got the Coronet all back together from dialing back the converter and the first couple of short drives went well. Trans temp never gets above 175-180 and the car is very snappy.
>>
>> Now on to the trick...drive it until warmed up, turn it off, and upon re-starting, it'll run for 30-45 seconds, then it dies. Crank it forever, stutter, repeat 6-7 times.........
>>
>> When it finally fires, it's stumbling alot, then after it's running, it'll stumble some more while driving, as you are fighting to keep it running. After that, it's fine until you turn it off again. It also started the stumbling crap after sitting at a light for a few minutes yesterday.
>>
>> When I got home tonight, I immediately popped the hood and my glass fuel filter was already empty.
>>
>> The only thing I changed since last season was the power valve from a high-flow 6.5 to a standard flow 5.5. I haven't changed the idle, mixture screws, or anything on the carb.
>>
>> My initial thoughts are the fuel pump took a dump so I'm picking up a new one tomorrow morning.
>>
>> Carb is a QuickFuel 750 Slayer Series.
>>
>> Any other thoughts
>>
>> Bill M
>> 65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1
>> 73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
>> 21 Model T Depot Hack, 06 Mazda 3
>
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