Re: My Car's New Trick

I had a Holley mechanical pump that had ones of the check valves dislodge. That caused it to stall and no restart for awhile. Is yours a mechanical or electric? An electric should be able to overcome vapor lock and fuel evaporation from the bowls. It sure sounds like the carb is dry when you get to restart.

On May 5, 2016 1:24 PM, "Bill M" <y1topbanana73@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

So a little update...

I changed the fuel pump and confirmed that the fuel line is not draining now, and replaced my aluminum 1" carb spacer with a phenolic one. First trip after the swaps, we went to a fairly close place for dinner Monday night. The car had just reached the bottom of "normal" operating temp range (on the factory gauge) when I shut it off. When we came out ~ 45 minutes later, it did not want to start. LONG crank then sputter, LONG crank then sputtered and finally started.

I've been through a couple of tanks of gas, and I treated the fuel before parking it last winter. Other than the new fuel pump, and the phenolic spacer, I've changed nothing else on the engine except for swapping the high flow 6.5 power valve for a standard flow 5.5...that's it! It NEVER acted stupid last year at all. I'm at my wits end. Any other thoughts?

Bill M
65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1
73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
12 Journey R/T, 14 Avenger R/T, 21 Model T Depot Hack

On Wed, Apr 20, 2016 at 9:12 AM, 'Paul L. http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-le' via The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
A couple possibilities come to mind. Most likely seems to me to be vapor lock. Since underhood temps are going to rise after the car is turned off and while driving in stop and go traffic. The other thing I would ask is, where is your coil mounted, on the intake in the stock location? An overheating coil will also deal fits but this sounds more like vapor lock to me.

Paul L.

On Monday, April 18, 2016 at 7:27:30 PM UTC-5, TopBanana wrote:
So I got the Coronet all back together from dialing back the converter and the first couple of short drives went well. Trans temp never gets above 175-180 and the car is very snappy.

Now on to the trick...drive it until warmed up, turn it off, and upon re-starting, it'll run for 30-45 seconds, then it dies. Crank it forever, stutter, repeat 6-7 times.........

When it finally fires, it's stumbling alot, then after it's running, it'll stumble some more while driving, as you are fighting to keep it running. After that, it's fine until you turn it off again. It also started the stumbling crap after sitting at a light for a few minutes yesterday.

When I got home tonight, I immediately popped the hood and my glass fuel filter was already empty.

The only thing I changed since last season was the power valve from a high-flow 6.5 to a standard flow 5.5. I haven't changed the idle, mixture screws, or anything on the carb.

My initial thoughts are the fuel pump took a dump so I'm picking up a new one tomorrow morning.

Carb is a QuickFuel 750 Slayer Series.

Any other thoughts

Bill M
65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1
73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
21 Model T Depot Hack, 06 Mazda 3

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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!

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