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This is where I got the idea – better pics of same process results: Also helps greatly with oil filter access – now I can remove the filter from below. Win Win. From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
On Behalf Of Hall, Ricky L See pic attached. Hardest part next to finding a spare driver’s side manifold – is finding someone that can weld cast iron. > Heat riser delete
(Spare driver’s side manifold cut, rotated and welded to create opposite for passenger side) From:
1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
On Behalf Of Roland Osborne A little fuzzy on the heat riser thingy??? From:
1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
On Behalf Of Hall, Ricky L Poly “Wind Tunnel” manifold and valve cover bits, pieces and notes: CVR thermostat housing TSH8CL
90 degree upper heater hose fitting, set with yellow 4mil Oatey 31403 teflon tape Water temp sending unit set with collar-less reducer By-pass hose (makes two), 3/4” ID Gates 19610 Made a plate to mount coil using holes in head and MSD Coil bracket 8213 Set original throttle return spring bracket on 2” stand-off 2.5” stainless studs for valve covers 85-520 Canton Racing Products Air filter assembly Mr Gasket 4339 (1.20” hood clearance at front as checked with clay) Oil breather caps Stant #10061 and #10070 w/PCV tube PCV Valve (Early GM Fram FV-112) Here’s some more details on this stock-ish rebuild – only a couple hundred miles on the rebuild so far:
Engine details: 1962 Dodge Dart 318 Poly, .060 over, balanced 256F mild cam
.435 lift x 256 duration (Schneider Cams thru Gary P) Cloyes timing set Mopar Performance oil pump drive-shaft P3690715
Milodon - Oil pan 30750 / Pick-up tube 18650 / Gaskets 40600 Heads 3-angle grind, manganese bronze guides, positive lock stem seals Oil filter adapter plate 22-575
(CantonRacingProducts.com) Threaded fitting: 53007563AB Brad Penn oil – K&N oil filter HP-3001 Edelbrock 1406 (600 cfm, electric choke) carb – 8131 fuel line/filter
Lokar throttle cable TC-1000U / Bracket TCB-40DQ / Tranny kick-down cable KD-2727U MSD Electronic distributor 8388
MSD Coil 8202 MSD Wires 32749
(MSD customer service sent one longer 27” wire free to make the pre-made set work for a Poly) Voltage regulator (Constant output) P3690732 Timing: 15 BTDC initial - 36 total - all in @ 2,500rpm. FlowKooler water pump + 180 degree Robertshaw thermostat Radiator “Desert Cooler”
aluminum 2 rows 1” tubes 14-16 fins per inch (Classic Industries MB2352A – US Radiator AL035037ANDZ) Heat riser delete
(Spare driver’s side manifold cut, rotated and welded to create opposite for passenger side) FlowMaster 50 mufflers Favorite gasket sealants used: Hylomar blue in a tube and especially spray can (eBay) – all fiber gaskets Permatex high temp thread sealant + Surface prep cleaner – Water jacket thru bolts and pipe fittings Permatex Right Stuff – Intake end sealing My ’62 station wagon was purchased by my grandparents in 1969. I always remember as a kid looking in and seeing the push button shifter. Last registered in 1991 and
sat for 20 some years on my little brother’s back 40, moved from house to house several times, but hung onto and inquiries to buy it fended off. Then one Christmas he says come get it, he will never do anything with it.
My first Mopar project so it has been a learning experience. Fetched it from 300 miles away with a U-haul car trailer Aug 2012, and drove it the first time just 1 month
and 8 days later. One exhaust valve promptly stuck open so had the heads done hoping that would be enough (89,000 miles on her at that point). First experience setting solid lifters too. Drove it several years meanwhile rebuilding the suspension etc, but
she did have a lot of blow-by. Got in line for the new 4 bbl manifold as soon as I heard about it. Had the engine rebuilt the same time as receiving the manifold and valve covers this spring. Had not gone thru an engine since the early ‘80’s. Really happy with how grandpa’s Poly runs. It’s a blast to kick her down to passing gear when merging on the freeway. That’s when you can really hear the exhaust.
Had FlowMaster 40’s on her with the 2 bbl, but with the manifold, 4 bbl and cam she was just too loud. Much mellower now with 50’s at idle and cruising – but loud when she needs to be. = ) The kick-down cable adjustment most def affects how the tranny shifts at all times, not just when kicking down to “passing gear”.. Shifts more positive when adjusted
with less play. This is not your grandpa’s Dodge........... Ric --
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