YOU MIGHT TRY SLIPPING THE HATS HALF OFF THE METERING RODS SO YOU CAN SEE THEM VISUALLY. AND THAT WAY WATCH WHAT THEY ARE DOING JASON AT WHAT RPM DOES THIS THING GET NOTICBLY RICH? I MEAN CAN YOU TELL IF AT 1200 RPM IT REALLY STARTS GOING RICH. OR DOES IT JUST CHOKE UP AS YOU BRING IT DOWN FROM SAY 1500? IF YOU CAN WATCH IN THE CARBS SEE IF YO NOTICE GAS DRIPPING INTO THE INTAKE AS ITS IDLEING. IF THE FLOATS ARE RUNNING OVER YOU CAN SEE IT SOME TIMES. PS. HAHAHAHAH SOUNDS LIKE A FUN PROJECT. MAYBE I SHOULD COME UP FOR A VISIT ON A SATURDAY SOME DAY From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of JimJablonski Hey there gang, Don't know if you recall but I fired up my stroker build late last year and had a ton of issues. Worked on it over the winter here and there and many of the kinks are gone. The timing is spot on, the compression is awesome, I resealed the intake, etc. The beast runs like a champ now - until it warms up and I try to bring the idle down for some carb adjustments. When I do so, it loads up, rich, to a point where it fouls the plugs and stalls out. As a reminder, I am running two Edelbrock 1405s on the CH-28, with the Lunati 63799 cam. It's a 440 block that I stroked to 511. I am using 452 heads that I cc'd, so I am just north of 12:1 compression. Here's some current theories I am chasing: - I am running an electric fuel pump with a return regulator. With two different regulators I can't get the fuel pressure dialed below 7-ish PSI. I am thinking I need a bigger return line to get it to dial back at the regulator./ The reason I am chasing this is I am hearing from multiple people that Edie's like very little pressure - like 5.5 PSI - so it's possible the fuel pressure is pushing past the needle and seat and thwoing off my float settings. - Tomorrow I am going to change the step-up springs to a weaker set. Another theory is that camshaft is producing such low vacuum that I am not keeping the metering rods down at idle So does any of this makes sense? Any other thoughts or ideas? Thank you, Jim -- -- -- Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group. http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en. --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 1962to1965mopars+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. |
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