Re: swapping tapered axles for later flanged axles

the ends of the tapered axle rear have to be cut off. the proper ends (which are available) need to be bought, properly aligned, and welded on. then measurements taken to get axles cut to the right length. You will also need to pick up backing plates, drums, etc for the conversion. Much easier to get a rear that will bolt right in. last one I got cost me $150. I’ll admit it was a few years ago. I even bought a whole parts car to get the rear, sold the rest for what I original paid for the car. Where are you located?

bob kinker

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From: StevieJ911 via The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse
Sent: ‎Friday‎, ‎May‎ ‎8‎, ‎2015 ‎9‎:‎21‎ ‎PM
To: StevieJ911 via The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse

Bob...I don't know about a drum to drum 65-70 rear end being cheaper than swapping axles......I think those days are behind us?

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From:"robertkinker@xxxxxxx" <robertkinker@xxxxxxx>
Date:Fri, May 8, 2015 at 6:10 PM
Subject:Re: swapping tapered axles for later flanged axles

not sure if this has been brought up earlier, but a 65 to 70 B body rear (drum to drum) will bolt right up to the early B bodies. much easier, and cheaper unless you can do the welding & aligning of the old rear yourself. The 65 to 67 rears are about an inch or narrower on each side, allowing wider tires to be used , Just my 2 cents

Bob Kinker

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From: John Waskiewicz
Sent: ‎Friday‎, ‎May‎ ‎8‎, ‎2015 ‎6‎:‎39‎ ‎PM
To: StevieJ911 via The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse

So what that article is saying is my 64 8 3/4 open differential with tapered axles can be swapped out for a sure grip older or newer then 64.

From: mcwheels@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: swapping tapered axles for later flanged axles
Date: Fri, 8 May 2015 14:13:00 -0400

Actually here’s a link to the whole article, lots of useful info here:

http://www.mymopar.com/Mopar8_75RearEndGuide.htm

From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of furyus63@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, May 8, 2015 1:37 PM
To: 1962to1965mopars
Subject: Re: swapping tapered axles for later flanged axles

Good info Dan for those who have not met this engineering innovation....

Nick T.

From: "Dan McCormack" <mcwheels@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: swapping tapered axles for later flanged axles

Nick, The following is a section from a Mopar 8 ¾ rear end guide that explains why you had to shorten the axles on your 63 Fury.

Section 1: Thrust Block Variations

There was a difference in thrust blocks prior to 1964 that make center section interchange, as well as axle interchange problematic. The thrust block, or "axle shaft thrust spacer", it’s the block that both left and right axles butt up against inside the center of the differential. Prior to 1964, all open differentials used a thrust block was approximately 1/8" to 1/4" thicker than units made after 1964. The Sure Grip thrust block prior to 1964, however, was indentical to all 1964 and later Sure Grips and open differentials. In 1964, the thrust block width was changed to match the Sure Grip thrust block width.

This difference in thrust blocks between Sure Grip differentials and open differentials required that two different axles be produced for each 8-3/4" housing manufactured. This is true of all 1959-1963 cars with 8-3/4"s.

A 1964 and later differential, or any Sure Grip differential, cannot be used with 1959-1963 rear ends and axles originally equipped with an open differential. The original axles must be machined or original Sure Grip length axles must be used.

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