Thanks Bill. I really appreciate the thoughtful responses. Very helpful.
Butch
I think you are correct that you won't get nearly that much. Considering I set out 14 years ago to build a correct engine for my factory '62 max wedge car, started with no parts, and using all used but correct factory parts correct part numbers, castings, date ranges, etc, reworked as needed, custom Ross pistons nearly $900 all by their little selves, including machine shop labor I was still south of $10,000, I realize labor and parts have gone up especially if he used factory stuff, but $30,000 all I can think is wow I'm glad I'm not trying to do my engine now! I feel for ya! Anyway other thoughts about selling in addition to those mentioned by Mike above could be ad in racingjunk.com; put on ebay with a reserve of what you could stand and see where the bidding goes; call Rick Allison at A&A in Indy (317) 831-3066 and see if he knows someone interested, in fact he has a '64 he's thinking of restoring in that direction and even has a parts car he won't let go, even though he is the supplier of most of the repro max wedge parts and developed the repro intakes himself, maybe you would catch him right. At the least I've always found him helpful to those in the mopar hobby. Maybe Roland, also a list member, takes ads now for the current edition of his Chrysler Power mag? Mike also mentioned putting it in the car and enjoy, with a reasonable cosmetic restoration from a shop local to you as opposed to big time Mopar resto shop, if you then wanted to cash in, I don't know but you might actually have an easier sell, although still would require more investment with some risk. Seems like folks are willing to pay pretty good bucks for clone or tribute cars these days.--Bill & Kathi Parker, South Central Indiana, harboring of bunch of old and newer MoparsOn Mon, May 4, 2015 at 7:29 PM, Butch Edison <waedison21@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:Thanks Mike. That makes good sense.
ButchOn May 4, 2015 4:22 PM, "mike creglow" <mcreglow@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:--butch,couple suggestions if i were in your shoes.first, you will never get your investment back, so put the max wedge in your already restored sport fury and enjoy the new found power.orcontact dvorak and see if he knows someone looking to build what you built,orcontact reputable mopar restoration shops and ask around.mike--On Sat, May 2, 2015 at 10:35 AM, Butch <waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:Hi all. My story is probably not unique. I bought and restored one 1964 Plymouth Sport Fury, 383, A727, to pretty much factory condition. I have a second one sitting on a storage rack in my shop, my intentions being to restore it to factory as well. I had Dan Dvorak in Florida build a 426 Max Wedge for me that is true to the car (almost). It does have date correct block, heads,fan, crossover ram intake and correct carbs. It is different in that it'b been bored .30 over, crank .10 under, different pistons etc.Dan built it as a 9.5 compression with hydraulic lifters so I could drive it on the street. It is intended to use the factory headers. I have a video of the start up he did in his shop before shipping it to me. It is one awesome motor. I have his build sheet for the motor. Anyway, since buying it and investing a LOT of money into it several years ago, all I've done is manually turn the motor over by hand every few weeks to keep the springs from setting.--I've concluded I'm not going to restore the 64 Sport Fury, will sell it, a LOT of oem parts I've purchased, AND the 426 Max Wedge (with factory exhaust headers). My question is where and how to sell the motor. I have something north of $30K in the motor and understand I won't get anything close to that, but would like your opinions on where and how to sell it and what to expect for it.If the link works for you, here is the start up 426 Max Wedge Start UpYour suggestions would be very much appreciated. Thanks/Butch
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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