The box was clean with no furry visitors. Flow testing is my next step. I just need to get some extra heater hose
Hi Bill,I haven't seen anyone mention testing flow with a garden hose. Have you?Mike LeFevre--On Thu, Jan 1, 2015 at 7:23 PM, Bill M <y1topbanana73@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:Great article link Gary!
So let me re-cap as I'm getting alot of great questions.
My heater functions seem to be fully operational except for the rotating vent on the bottom. (I think the carpet is binding it...shop knife here we come!).
All fan speeds work. Fan turns off when the "off" button is pressed at any speed.
The heater control valve is a "new" rebuild unit. I have no idea if the auto function is working but the capillary tube is placed correctly.
It appears that I have the heater hoses on the wrong heater ports, so that will likely be corrected tonight.
I've confirmed that the heater control cable is clamped correctly on both ends and that the heater control valve has full travel.I switched the hoses so the water pump output goes to the heater control valve today and...nothing. I did get coolant out of both ports in the dash. Next step is to get some more heater hose and confirm flow.
Bill M
65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1
73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
21 Model T Depot Hack, 06 Mazda 3--heater control cable should be clamped in place and inner cable moving freely not kinked or broken, blower motor could be working but fan not moving.--On Tue, Dec 30, 2014 at 2:11 PM, Bill M <y1topbanana73@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:That's how I have mine plumbed. The vent on the bottom is sticking on the carpet, but I was thinking I should still be getting warm air no matter where it is.
Bill M
65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1
73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
21 Model T Depot Hack, 06 Mazda 3On Tue, Dec 30, 2014 at 10:46 AM, <furyus63@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:--Bill,On the Poly water (in) from the intake manifold goes to the driver's side port. Water (out) from the passenger side port to the water pump. You can check the temperature control cable making sure it's connected to the lever at the heater. Sometimes when the cable is pushed to (low) or closed the wire will slip out of the lever. Also check the vacuum line controlling the (cool) port making sure it's closed when the (heat) port is open.At one point my unit was stuck between heat and defrost with no heat coming out. The lower heat door was stuck on the carpet.Nick
From: "Bill M"
Subject: Re: Heater Woes
I'm pretty sure the FSM showed the water pump port going to the pass side but I'll revisit it...I've been wrong before!
I'm pretty certain the internal door is moving, but even if it wasn't...if I set the temp to hot, I should still get hot air....correct?
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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