One more thing, to keep the axle from rotating while tightening/pulling the studs into place. Take a vicegrips and clamp onto the flange, then use a jack-stand for support to keep it from rotating.
Herb
1954 DeSoto Firedome Estate Wagon 276 HEMI
1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361 4-Sale
1959 Dodge Coronet 326 Poly
1960 Chrysler Valiant V100 Wagon 170 3 speed
1961 Plymouth Sport Suburban Wagon 318 Poly
1961 Plymouth Valiant V200 Wagon 170
1961 Dodge Dart Pioneer Wagon 318 Poly
1963 Plymouth Fury 2D/HT 7.0L Gen III HEMI
1963 Plymouth Sport Fury Convertible 361
1970 Chrysler 300 Hurst 440
1979 Dodge Aspen Sport Wagon 360
1999 Durango SLT 5.9L
2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1L
2014 Dodge Journey
St. Louis, MO.
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-------Original Message-------
Date: 11/12/2014 8:15:26 AM
Subject: Re: LH stud replacement 1965 axle
Thanks, I really appreciate your response. The procedure looks great, I go for it this weekend. Thanks Again Dennis C. On Wednesday, November 12, 2014 4:18:59 AM UTC-7, zephyr9901 wrote:
Yes you can! The more brake parts you remove the easier the access. Procure the correct right hand nuts & studs, a stack of about 5 or 6 washers depending on thickness, or a nut that will Just Slide over the knurled or thickest portion of the stud, then get one or two washers that will Just Fit over the threaded portion of the stud, from your friendly parts suppler. Look closely at the back of an installed stud to see what a properly seated stud looks like in the axle. Wearing proper safety equipment, knock the old studs out with an appropriately sized hammer. Make sure to rotate the axle away from the wheel cylinder as you could crack it if hit with the back of an old stud. Now that the old studs are removed you should be ready to install each new stud. From the back of the flange slide the new stud in as far as it will slide, then by feel, rotate it till you feel it aligning well with the old grooves in the stud hole. Holding the stud in place insert the larger washers, then the smaller washer(s), then a lug-nut with the tapered end out, tighten till snug. Using the appropriate socket & a large breaker bar or rachet run the nut down pulling the new stud into place till it is seated in the hole just like the previously removed one. An impact wrench can be used if your confident using one, but if this is your first rodeo I would recommend doing the first stud the slow way. Now repeat four more times.
I would buy an extra lug-nut because the visible surface will be scratched from rotating against the washers. Keeping everything well greased or spray lubed during the install will make things proceed easier. ReInstall your brake parts, drum, wheel, lug-nuts & torque using the star pattern utilizing your preferred method of installation. I would recommend after a short trip to re-torque the lug-nuts and again re-torque them in the not too distant future. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
H
-------Original Message-------
Date: 11/12/2014 12:19:26 AM
Subject: LH stud replacement 1965 axle
I have a 1965 (non-tapered) differential in my 63 SF.
I changed the front to Disc Brakes so now the ONLY wheel that still has LH studs is in the rear.
Can I change the studs to RH with the axle in the differential or do I have to take it out and take it to a machine shop?
I would really like to do it myself at home if possible.
Thanks
Dennis C.
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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