Confession is indeed good for the soul, Bob. And, now you know the
next step for a fix that may outlast the life of the original dash
dimmer. Replacement headlight switches are readily available. It
might be worthwhile to find a N.O.S. part in case newly made
switches are as poorly built as some other new parts some of us have
found.
BC
On 10/20/2014 8:49 PM, BobVoshalike
wrote:
Hello Folks, While I have my typing finger warmed
up, I have a confession to make. Preface: Chrysler heavy line
tech, 25 yrs., same stall, outlasted 4 changes of ownership, and
retired in 1999. My baby is a 1965 Belvedere II, all power, air,
cruise, discs, 1200 watt sound sys. (yea I know what your
thinking but it sure makes Conway Twitty, Ferlin Huskey, Roy
Clark, and Tennessee Ernie Ford to my liking), power antennae,
electric trunk release. The problem started one night when my
baby and I were out for a ride, and while sitting at a red light
I noticed the dash lights, (had changed to LED), flickering and
pulsating. Being that nothing less than perfect would be
tolerated, this problem would have to be cured. The original 45
amp alt. had already been the issue of a no charge situation,
broken rotor wire, but was re-soldered and repaired. With the
increased audio load and intermittent electric loads I decided a
more powerful charging system was needed. I opted for a 160 amp
1989 mopar (mitsubishi) alt, which is a bolt on deal after
shaving .080 off of the pivot bracket and bushing the adjuster
strap bolt hole down to 5/16, was already using a 70's and 80's
regulator. Don't get your drawers in a knot, the original alt.
wire still feeds the amp gauge and interior via the fusible link
and a 4 gauge runs to the battery then through a fused circuit
to the amps. Now to the confession part: after 4 nights of
ohming, voltage tests, ground cleaning, bulkhead cleaning, and
packing with diaelectric grease, disconnecting all circuits on
the pos. field wire circuit to check for a voltage drop as each
one was reconnected, I had come to the conclusion that the
evaporator case would have to come out to check the other side
of the bulkhead connector as it is not visible or touchable from
the inside with that case in the way. While sitting in the
drivers seat, watching the dash and interior lights flicker, and
wiping the tears from my eyes from contemplating the upcoming
task, the repair was revealed, surely a message from above. I
reached over to turn the lights off and just as I touched the
headlamp switch the problem ceased. GLORY HALLA LOU YA The
problem was just the wiper arm contacting the rheostat in the
headlamp switch wasn't making a good connection. Repaired by
turning switch knob down just enough to contact the next coil on
the rheostat. THANKS for giving me a place to post this
confession. If ever confronted about this in public I will deny
it ever happened an accuse the offender of being a liar.
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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