Is there some 225 comment/info here?
BC
On 10/7/2014 8:08 PM, Herb wrote:
20-40 is acceptable because it is not
over loaded with viscosity enhancers like 10-40.
Engine builders love 10-40 till you have one of
their engines in your car! 10-40 brings them a lot
of business a lot quicker.
-------Original Message-------
Date:
10/7/2014 5:53:36 PM
Subject:
RE: 225
Herb - my original owners manual for the
273 engine recommends 10w30 or 20w40 oil depending
on temperature. I haven't owned the car for awhile
but now that I think back, I recall that it was
Rotella 15w40, which is close to factory spec.
Perhaps recommendations have since changed but the
engine ran well with that oil for quite a long time.
On Oct 7, 2014 5:20 PM,
"Herb" < zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
I am shocked a real mechanic
would recommend 10-40 oil in a
gasoline engine!
Many Chrysler cars
cannot use 10W40 oil. Always use the
recommended oil and Trans
fluid. Never take the
oil change place's word for
it. Look it up yourself.
The use of 10W40 motor oil was
phased out by vehicle
manufactures when piston ring
quality was improved to pass the
100,000 mile emission durability
test. 10W40 has a high amount of
viscosity index improvers that
may/will leave deposits in the
piston ring groves.
The following statement is from
a Chrysler bulletin; SAE 10W-40
is not included in the viscosity
chart for gasoline engines, for
several reasons, including:
^ Fuel economy with SAE 10W-30
oils is about 1% better than
that with SAE 10W-40 oils.
^ SAE 10W-30 oils generally
produce less piston and ring
deposits than SAE 10W-40 oils.
Such deposits can lead to stuck
rings and increased oil
consumption & wear.
The use of SAE 10W-40 engine oil
in a vehicle equipped with a
gasoline engine will not
automatically void your New Car
Limited Warranty. However, since
SAE 10W-40 engine oil is not
recommended for use in Vehicles
equipped with gasoline engines,
if the use of such oil causes
damage, the cost of the engine
repair will not be covered by
the Warranty. The Warranty does
not cover any damage due to the
use of non-recommended oils,
whether SAE 10W-40 or some other
viscosity. In addition, the
Warranty does not cover damages
caused by the use of oils that
do not meet the recommended API
quality or SAE viscosity grade.
I am sure you have no concerns
about any warranty on your car,
the point is that 10-40 oil is
overloaded with viscosity
enhancers to the point that they
cause deposits on rings and
valves ultimately turning into
abrasives causing premature
damage to your engine.
-------Original
Message-------
Date:
10/7/2014 2:26:16 PM
Subject:
RE: 225
I had low oil
pressure especially at hot
idle in a 273 with occasional
noise from one lifter and my
mechanic advised using Rotella
10W40. I used it for a couple
of thousand miles and it
worked well with better
pressure and no lifter noise.
Diesel oil
sure has worked well for me in
several old cars. Put
synthetic Castrol for classic
cars in the 318 Poly and a ’72
Cadillac 472ci and both
started leaking oil when they
did not before. Switched next
time to Rotella T dino and
they stopped leaking and the
noisy tappet from a weak
lifter on the Cadillac stopped
even at cold start-up.
Now
then, with the slant
six--would it be better to
use diesel oil, raceing
oil, or common motor oil
with ZDDP
additive?.......................MO
8-)
-----
Original Message -----
Sent:
Tuesday, October 07, 2014
9:05 AM
It is
obviously a MoPar
conspiracy............
There's
one thing I don't
understand...
I have
proved with these diagrams
that the engine is NO
LOWER AT ALL. Yet each
time I have stated that
someone comes back and
says it's lower. It
definitely is no lower!
The
cylinder head casting, in
fact, is higher with the
engine slanted. Look
closely at the diagrams.
The
lower centre of gravity is
principally because the
camshaft and lifters are
significantly lower and
the right side of the
engine is lower. The left
side of the engine is
higher. A further lowering
of the centre of gravity
could have been achieved
by the retention of an
alloy intake manifold,
even more with an alloy
head.
Yes,
the engine bay in the
Australian cars was the
same as US cars until
1969, the only differences
being in the chassis rails
where the steering box and
idler arm are mounted.
As to
engine length, the
shortness of the engine
relied on two things.
First, the bore centres
being close together;
second the water pump
being mounted to one side.
BOTH of these could have
been achieved with a
vertical engine.
The
engines sat no lower in
the Australian cars, they
didn't have to. The
suspensions were no lower,
that would never work
here.
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"reply" and send your email to everyone using the
general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address.
This practice will protect your privacy, reduce
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signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion
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email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as
well as other personal messages, only to the intended
recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your
email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse
public email address. This practice will protect your
privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune
the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one
person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car
transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages,
only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send
your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public
email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the
total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar
topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html
and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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