Re: Paralyzed Push Buttons

On your 63 it is fairly easy to get to the shifter button assy. There are 4 screws I think that hold the instrument bezel in the dash. If you remove the two bolts that hold the steering column under the dash it gives you a little more room when getting the instrument panel out. You might put a few pieces of masking tape on top of the column to protect the paint.. This gives you pretty good access to the shifter mechanism without having to get under the dash. It is easy to get the shifter cable loose, there is only a "hairpin" holding it on. The park cable is a different matter. It is crimped into a steel collar. It is possible to open it up to free up the cable but unless your careful the collar can break off and then you've got to McGyver something to get it fixed. So I don't recommend trying to take that one off.

But as recommended in an earlier post you first need to get the cable adjusted correctly. The procedure as outlined in the tech section of the BB is a good procedure to follow. If you have an analog ohm meter it can be used to make the final adjustment. When it is in neutral the neutral safety switch will be grounded. As you can see when you rotate the adjuster wheel you will get varying resistance. After finding the sweet spot make sure you shift it in and out of neutral a few times to make sure you've got it right as there can be some small amount of variation inherent int the mechanism.

Also make sure the cable is not binding in some way. And as previously stated get the shifter mechanism clean an lube it with some silicone spray.

Paul L.

On Tuesday, September 23, 2014 5:46:22 AM UTC-5, carv...@xxxxxxx wrote:

I'm looking for opinions.
I got my Fury about a year ago and it came to me in desperate need of a transmission rebuild. (727 ) . Getting it rebuilt was one of my first efforts. I had it done by a local shop who seemed fairly competent and honest. Most of the issues they had were from just not being familiar with the old torqueflite, but they managed.
The car is a very original, 383 4bbl, all stock. I discovered early on that someone had Jimmied up the carb (original AFB) so the 4 barrel wouldn't open. I gently tried to get all that back in shape, and I also found that the throttle cable was moved to not allow Wide Open Throttle. SO I fixed that.Now, when I push the loud pedal she really squirts!! Now.... for the push buttons. Only Reverse, Neutral and Drive work. I have been under the car and played with the adjustment on the cable. I actually got it where nothing would work. We went in small increments all the way from end to end settling back where we started (about mid way). Still no function from first or second button. They will depress part way and eject whatever button is pushed in, but won't push in all the way or stay in. I have not pulled the cable all the way out of the case yet as I don't have a lift, but it seems to be jamming at the push button mechanism. Maybe another attempt to keep someone from Hot Rodding like the carb and throttle cable?? Any suggestions? It may be a while before I can try any fixes, I'm a big old guy and can't get under the dash without pulling the seat, so I would like a plan first. Thanks in advance for your input.

Lyle