I've done this to my 1996 F150 and a 1980 300SD. It's a weaker light (not as bright) than your stock bulbs. This is due to the lamp only throwing light in a narrow beam (
Narrow 35 degree beam pattern where a regular lamp throws light in all directions).
You match the color of the lens for brake and turn signal lights. The color spectrum is different in LED than in incandescent bulbs and the lights are very dim when they shine through those lenses (if you used a white LED) so you use red lamp for red lenses and yellow lamp for yellow lens so they are bright enough to be legal and safe.
For the dash if you have the plastic aqua caps built into the cluster I would probably go with the green ones, the bright white will give a better color (look more like it should) but it will be dimmer than most people like. But the green ones will look more green than blue.
For dash light, dome lights, trunk lights, glove box, ashtray, under the hood and side markers you will not need load
resistors, as Bob said. Just buy the 12v dc bulbs and plug them in. If you wanted to do brake light, turn signals you can get one of these instead of load resistors. (Note, if you do use load resistors instead you will need one for each bulb you replace. In my car the '62 Newport I would need 4, one for each turn signal in the front and one for each of the brake lights in the back. The running lamps do not need them, only the brake and turn signal leads. The load resistors get hard wired in at the sockets into the wiring. It's this item http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/tail-light-load-resistor-kit/190/831/ )
With this one you would have to have a 12v hot, a load wire (that's what our cars have) and you will have to wire in a Ground with for you flasher. This will give you a clicking sound when you use your turn signals.
This one is plug in play, but it doesn't make any sound when you use your turn signals.
Probably more info than you wanted but there ya go.
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