Russell,
Good question on building a 440 compared to a 318 Poly Stroker. The 440 is an extremely powerful engine and will make more HP & Torque than a Stroker Poly by reason of its larger base cubic inches and where you can go from there...500+ cubes...
Yes, most people build Poly Stroker’s because they make great HP & Torque and make superior AVERAGE HP & Torque compared to most engines., and most notably, they are very different and impressive in appearance especially with finned aluminum valve covers. Cost-wise, if a person starts with no core for either powerplant, it is cheaper to build a Poly as the core engine is usually “free” and they are easily obtained. The only expensive parts to a Poly Stroker are custom pistons (approx. $800+ retail) and possibly the intake manifold if you don’t opt for the cast iron dual quad which is reasonably priced.
I can make the parts selection and build process “easy” because I have been “playing” with these motors for a long time and I don’t count the cost of my time researching/building/helping others with their Poly projects; a labor of love if you will.
A MAX WEDGE clone will be far more expensive than building a Stroker Poly but the MAX WEDGE is unique (and valuable!) and a great piece of racing history so any imitation is always worthwhile in my opinion.
If you ask if it is “worth it” to build any 318 Poly from a purely horsepower and torque standpoint then I would have to ask what your HP & Torque goal is? And the simple answer that puts to rest much jaw-jacking to no profit on the subject is to say that if you are happy with
440-450ft. lbs. of torque at 3300RPM and 400-420HP at 5300RPM and from
3500-5500 RPM getting an AVERAGE of 428ft.lbs. of Torque and 375 AVERAGE Horsepower then build a Poly. I have all the dyno sheets for these numbers and it is achieved with 9.5 compression, 1957 cast iron dual quad intake,
234@.050” .480” Hyd. flat tappet Cam, 211cfm Intake flow at .500” lift (yawn...), 1.94/1.60” valves, homemade headers...
Objectively speaking, those peak and especially the average HP & Torque numbers are hard to equal with the ancient and low-tech parts used. If I/we had Edelbrock alum. heads and RPM Air Gap manifolds I would say the Poly HP & Torque numbers would equal or surpass any Stroker Small Block Mopar and thus rival most Big Block stock stroke engines. All I need is more CFM pumping through the Poly heads to realize those gains as the Polyspherical chamber is a superior design compared to a Wedge-style chamber and this is purely design proven and not “affection driven.”
Common Poly Stroker packages are 350-360” (can make around 440HP at 6000rpm) and 390-402” (good HP and big torque at low RPM) and can be tailored to your needs/wants within the aforementioned parameters.
My friend Don Dulmage is currently building a 318 Poly (yes, stock stroke) Dragster and we shall see how that turns out. A stock stroke Poly is no slouch either and will rev itself to the moon, ala Rich Kinsley’s ‘64 Polara, and is a great small block contender against any bow tie or blue oval competitor.
Gary Pavlovich
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2012 11:21 AM
Subject: Re: Starting My 392 Poly Stroker
You'll definitely have an easier and cheaper time building a 440, and the power will come easier. I'm sticking with the poly as I want it to look pretty original and they are something different.
Bill M
65 Coronet 500 'vert
http://goo.gl/6xUS1
73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
21 Model T Depot Hack, 06 Mazda 3
On Tue, Dec 18, 2012 at 2:16 PM,
<mrdozerman@xxxxxxx> wrote:
I gotta ask the question, since I am building a 62 max wedge clone, numbers mean nothing to me,but found a 68 HP 440 and putting a max wedge cross ram on it with newer ederbrock 750's, mainly because of cost compared to correct carbs,Is building any poly worth it or even a 413 compared to a 440,especially finding motorhome engines that can run circles around them, or is it the love to be different.not trying to be smart ,just grew up knowing cubes are cubes and 318 versus 440 and see the same money spent on rebuilds. I think I am missing something,please don't hate me LOL? thanks Russell
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Pavlovich <
glpavlovich@xxxxxxx>
To: 1962to1965mopars <
1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tue, Dec 18, 2012 9:35 am
Subject: Re: Starting My 392 Poly Stroker
Bill,
Good pricing Bill! The “H”series bearings are hardened rod bearings and I would also recommend them for your Stroker application. The 4” crank puts a lot of stress on the rods and main caps so hardened rod bearings are good insurance. A set of full-groove mains for your crank w/high volume oil pump is also recommended.
The shop will have to clearance the rods to the block with a four inch stroke but the Poly requires only minor clearance and shop time should be no more than one hour.
What cam profile will you be running? A
234@.050” duration HYD. is a very good profile for the Stroker, or the
244@.050” Solid Cam for most applications – this will yield approx. 400-420HP and 440-450ft. lbs. of Torque at low RPM levels (3400 & 5300 respectively) and produce extremely high & flat average numbers.
Gary Pavlovich
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2012 5:38 AM
Subject: Starting My 392 Poly Stroker
Well, I'm dropping off my block to begin the 392 poly Stroker project on Wednesday. Found a local machine shop with a good reputation that's reasonable priced. Hot tank, magnaflux boring & honing will cost me ~$260, clearancing the block to my rotating assembly $80-120, Install cam bearings $60, assemble the short block $250. so all work to get the short block in shape will be ~$630...not too bad I guess.
He suggested getting "H" series bearings...what's the significance of these series bearings? He was talking about clearance for crank radius or something but there was alot of noise in the background.
Bill M
65 Coronet 500 'vert
http://goo.gl/6xUS1
73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
21 Model T Depot Hack, 06 Mazda 3
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http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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