Re: Fuel Pump

I should also mention that the pump is mounted down low on the inside of the passenger side fender - not a great spot. The previous owner had it on top of the fender, but I moved it down lower as a temporary improvement 2 years ago. I've been planned to move it back near the tank - just haven't gotten to it yet. So while it is in a bad spot for heat, it hasn't been a problem the past 2 years. So this appears to be an issue not related to it's location. I do know from years of owning my Cummins powered Ram that fuel pumps mounted up near the engine don't last as long as pumps back by the tank. I'll try to get a pressure reading as Dennis suggested.

Thanks,

Dave
'64 Belvedere 2DHT
318 Poly, Push Button Auto

From: Dave64 <lt7dave@xxxxxxxxx>
To: "1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx" <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2012 3:08 PM
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump

Thanks, Dennis. It does sound like vapor lock, but what's puzzling is I haven't had this problem before, and there have been no changes to the setup over the past 2 years. The filter is after the pump, by the way. I always run premium gas since premium doesn't have any ethanol around here. I wonder if I have a bad batch of gas? I've never heard of bad gas acting funny only at higher temps, though.

Thanks,

Dave
'64 Belvedere 2DHT
318 Poly, Push Button Auto

From: Dennis C. <dennis.2914@xxxxxxxxx>
To: The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2012 7:47 AM
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump

Hello,

If you can put a fuel pressure gauge on the line to the carb it will
greatly shorten your trouble shooting time.

Typically an electric fuel pump should be mounted as close to the fuel
tank and as low as possible. What you are describing could be vapor
lock trying to start. With our wonderful new fuel blends the fuel
will start to vaporize (boil) at lower temperature than the old fuel
blends.

If there is a restriction in the system such as a fuel filter on the
inlet side of the fuel pump that needs changing or fuel temperature is
higher due to higher warmer weather it can contrubute to your problem.

Personally I would not go back to the mechanical pump.

It is very important for safety that your electric fuel pump be wired
correctly. You should have the oil pressure switch that will turn off
the fuel pump when you don't have oil pressure. Wired correctly the
fuel pump runs while cranking the engine then when the engine is
running oil pressure keeps the fuel pump running. It is handy to have
a push button switch or spring loaded toggle switch to run the fuel
pump prior to cranking to full the carb.

Take Care
Dennis C.

On May 28, 10:38 pm, Dave64 <lt7d...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> I've been having trouble with my poly running rough at idle. At higher RPMs it's been running just fine, though. After looking at the plugs and other basics, I replaced the fuel filter - just in case a chunk of crud got caught in it. I put a see-thru filter on it this time, and it ran really fine until I got it up to temperaure. Then the intermittent missing came back. This time I'm getting more of a bog at speed with harder acceleration, but better running at low end rpms. While undr the hood, I noticed that at times fuel seems to be just trickling into the filter - to the point of the filter having just a bit in it below the element. Other times the level of fuel is over the top of the element - which looks more like it should. So I'm thinking the electric fuel pump may be starting to take a dump on me. This got me thinking - if I do end up having to replace it, why not put a mechanical pump back on? I'm interested in the
> group's opinions on mechanical vs electric fuel pumps on a stock Poly. By the way, I haven't eliminated the coil as the possible culpret to my problems, either, but the fuel flow running through the filter doesn't look adequate to me regardless.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
> '64 Belvedere 2DHT
> 318 Poly, Push Button Auto

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