Sounds like he should talk to the guy that built it
The 1 who said that there was nothing wrong with it when it was making noise
Everything I've read seems to suggest that it had a major engine failure and it jumped time
Something along the lines of it blew the rings into the pan or a broken piston
Sounds like it is to far advanced. Check the timing chain.On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 8:46 AM, Jacob Fox <imfast101@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
--It tries to start every now n then. Maybe I'm not getting spark..I know for sure I'm getting gas. Sometimes it'll try to start but kinda diesels.
Sent from my iPhoneSounds retarded. The spark I mean :-)Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 324 poly w/goodies--On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 5:20 PM, Jacob Fox <imfast101@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Well, I tried to crank it today, no go. Unhooked vent lines from air cleaner, got puffs of smoke when I try to start out of the vent line. Wouldn't wanna pop off, popped thru the carb twice trying to. I don't know what the deal is.
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 14, 2012, at 2:18 PM, "Dennis C." <dennis.2914@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Probably not your problem but I had a serious oil leak on my 383.
> Worse I fought the problem for a long problem until I found out what I
> had done wrong.
>
> When I put the engine together I put the wrong breather cap on the
> valve cover. I installed a non-vented cap instead of the correct
> vented cap.
>
> It resulted in failed valve cover gaskets due to the vacuum in the
> engine and eventually cracked the valley pan in a couple of places. I
> had oil everywhere and I suspect if I had been running regular oil
> instead of synthetic I probably would have had a fire and lost the
> car.
>
> When I pulled the intake manifold I found the cracked valley pan.
>
> I ran a compression test prior to pulling the intake because #7
> sparkplug was fouled with oil. Compression was much higher on #7
> cylinder.
>
> I found the intake sealing part of the valley pan was leaking at #7
> and allowing oil to be pulled directly into the cylinder. I had
> installed the valley pan they way I found it when I pulled the engine
> down, no fiber gaskets, just the metal valley pan. When I put it back
> I used the valley pan directly on the head and a fiber gasket on the
> intake manifold side. I used "The Right Stuff" gasket sealer between
> the valley pan and the head
>
> This has been several thousand miles ago, the oil fouling cleared on
> #7 cylinder and compression is back to normal. I have not seen any
> evidence of an oil or vacuum leaks with the valley pan.
>
> I doubt this is your problem, just an example of how a simple mistake
> can become very serious.
>
> Good Luck
> Dennis C.
>
> On Apr 13, 6:18 pm, Jacob Fox <imfast...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>> So I drove my car today, got on interstate was like hell let me see what's she's got. Got on it for just a sec it was great. Got to where I was going it would barely idle. Popped hood the there was oil all on the passenger side header gasket area and looked like it was coming from cap and somewhere else. I noticed when I start it now, theres a loud "suction sound" comin from back I motor that increases with rpm. I checked vacuum lines etc and found nothing. To make matters worse, I went to clean headers not thinking and now my nice silver ceramic tti headers now have blue melted spots where rag touched. Oh Friday 13 how I hate thee. I have the worst luck with cars I swear.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>
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Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
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