Re: 8 3/4" rear end housing info

[Herb <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Messing with four U bolts, one U joint & e-brake cables sounds SOOOO much easier also!!   O, BTW $$.00 

 

 

 

 

     Herb

 

1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361 4-Sale

1959 Coronet 326 Poly

1961 Belvedere Custom Suburban Wagon 318 Poly

1961 Dodge Dart Pioneer Wagon 318 Poly

1963 Fury 2D/HT 7.0L

1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361

1970 Chrysler 300 Hurst 440

1979 Dodge Aspen R/T Sport Wagon 360

1999 Durango SLT 5.9L

2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1L

St. Louis, MO.

 

http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html

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-------Original Message-------

 

From: Dodger7998@xxxxxxx

Date: 3/2/2012 11:21:04 AM

To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Subject: Re: 8 3/4" rear end housing info

 

At most swap meets/u pull it's/car salvage yards, an 8 3/4 housing can be purchased in the 150-300 dollar price range, true this is not going to be a 3.91 sure grip rear end, but that was never part of the equation in the first place.

    So to start out with spending 220 for a set of axles( which is not a bad price if aloy axles are needed) and then needing to purchase bearings, seals, and adjuster, drums, shoes, cylinders, backing plates, hardware kits and studs.  The drums are up in the air as to if they need replaced, or  just turned, or even if ok to run in as found condition same thought can be applied to the shoes and wheel cylinders.  Next question is the inner and outer diameter of the wheel bearing the same for a tappered axle housing as a flange type axle housing,,, unknown to me????, we are also assuming that the distance from end of axle to where the bearing rides is the same between the two axles, so as the flange area is the right distance for the drum/backing plate distance.   So yes it is possible to do anything with the correct amount of machining and spacers to make every thing fit and or line up, but is it worth the expense and time involved in doing it 

 

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