The spring is for reducing squeal, but when they get rusty and rusted to the drum it seriously reduces there effectiveness. I cant find it right now but the springs are being repoped now, and they are proud of them. I will post when I find the add, I think it was in MoPar Collector Guide a couple of months ago. I have found if you take the drums to a good auto part store and have them do a glaze buster it clears the problem up. As far as your springs I have had so, so, luck with removing a not horribly rusted spring and soaking them in PB Blaster till they are bendable getting rid of as much rust as you feel comfortable removing, then reinstall.
The assembly is separate and I have seen people leave them that way but. The hub is swedged to the drum when the studs are pressed in from the factory and or at a machine shop to keep everything in alignment reducing vibration. To remove the drums from the hub there is a tool that slides over the stud and cuts it's shank off releasing the drum. The problem is you have to replace the studs. One caution trying to hammer or press the studs out I have seen people warp hubs doing this and I have seen people get away with it completely. But to do it right our studs need to be drilled out and swedged back in by a machine shop. )-: Now might be a good time to convert over to all right hand threads because they are much easier to find and far less confusing to todays mechanics.
To do a brake job you really don't need the tools it makes it easier but you don't have to have them. One thing you need to do if you can even find a shop that knows how to do it anymore is to arch the shoes to each drum and make sure they stay together as a set. The lack of doing it causes the squeal and the pull to the right or left that you get depending which one is out of sequence the most. The dual cylinder setup is a fantastic stopper if it is done right, but is problematic if done wrong.
Herb
1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361 4-Sale
1959 Coronet 326 Poly
1961 Belvedere Custom Suburban Wagon 318 Poly
1961 Dodge Dart Pioneer Wagon 318 Poly
1963 Fury 2D/HT 7.0L
1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
1970 Chrysler 300 Hurst 440
1979 Dodge Aspen R/T Sport Wagon 360
1999 Durango SLT 5.9L
2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1L
St. Louis, MO.
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-------Original Message-------
Date: 2/4/2012 1:07:34 PM
Subject: Drum brakes
(1964 dodge 880) I took my wheel off the other day to check out my brakes cause they've been making some noise. I've never done a car with front drums and was unaware I needed to pull bearings etc just to pull drum. (used to Chevys where u just hammer it off). Anyways, I looked at it and I have a few questions after doin some searches online for parts along with informational questions:
What is that spring that goes around the drum? I was thinking maybe vibration dampener?
From looking online, seems the drum is separate from the studs and the bearing housing, but on the car it seems as all one piece. On Rock auto the drum doesn't include these, and one of my studs are stripped (left handed).
I was told the brakes were already done before I bought the car, but the sound in the front left wheel says otherwise. It only does it (squeal metal on metal sound) when I've been driving for a while and brakes are hot I guess. I was gonna go ahead and change them, and while I was there I was gonna change bearings too since I gotta pull them out. Any advice for all this? Manual talks about certain brake tools and stuff to remove do I really need them?
Thanks for putting up with this long and prolly redundant post! Lol
Sent from my iPhone
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