Yep,,,,,, either regulator will work on either alternator, the electronic
is a better unit though
In a message dated 1/6/2012 9:30:18 A.M. Central Standard Time,
hoodoovoodooray@xxxxxxxxx writes:
Thanks
Herb.
For anyone else to comment too:
So I'm clear on
this. It's ok to run a 1970+ alternator that
would normally go to an electonic regulator to a pre 1970
mechainical voltage regulator? Because that is what it looks like has
been done on my car. ( the link has a couple pics) Unless
that voltage regulator is like the later flat electronic regulators in the
shape of a 1962 mechainical?
On Jan 6, 4:05 am,
Herb <zephyr9...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > The non insulated field is
just that, grounded. For your application that > is correct!
The insulated one is the one you plug the voltage regulator >
into. That's a way to convert a two field alternator to work in place
of > the correct single field alternator, so your good! That mod
will not > shorten or adversely affect the longevity of the alternator
what so ever, > actually that is how the correct alternator is wired
internally. > > As far as the splices, probably a GM mechanic
fixed it, as they would call > it fixed! The bulkhead connectors
& ammeter are weak points on our cars > especially when people use
heaver amp alternators then our cars wiring > harness were designed to
support. Amps cause heat at weak points, or bad > connections and
will burn in time. It wont happen over night, but time is > not on
a cars side with too large an alternator. Also the bulkhead >
connector has a propensity to hold moisture and corrode causing
anomalies > also. My 63 Sport Fury had splices and jumper wires
everywhere when I got > it. It took the better part of a Saturday
afternoon to clean and repair the > bulkhead connecters and undo the
jumpers the previous owners installed, then > I had to re-rap the
harness. The person that did that to your car, had more > time
than sense. Depending on your intended use of the car, if it's a >
driver and it's working, leave it. Or better yet get a couple rolls of
good > quality electricians tape and re-rap the exposed wires making the
wiring > modifications less obvious. If it's going to be a
restoration, the ends are > available and if you look, non butchered
bulkhead connectors are not to hard > to come by. O, Ya, get a
good schematic for your car before you get > started!! > >
Herb > > 1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361 4-Sale > 1959
Coronet 326 Poly > 1961 Belvedere Custom Suburban Wagon 318 Poly >
1961 Dodge Dart Pioneer Wagon 318 Poly > 1963 Fury 2D/HT 7.0L >
1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361 > 1970 Chrysler 300 Hurst 440 >
1979 Dodge Aspen R/T Sport Wagon 360 > 1999 Durango SLT 5.9L >
2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1L > St. Louis, MO. > >
http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html > > > >
-------Original Message------- > > From: Eric R > Date:
1/6/2012 12:39:53 AM > To: The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List
Clubhouse > Subject: Alternator Confusion - Need Advice > >
So, It looks like I have a 1970+ alternator that has been wired to a >
pre 1970 Voltage regulator. Does this setup really work for very >
long? Also, the wiring has been cut at the firewall conectors and
a > splice of about 8"' has been added for about every wire coming out
of > there. What would cause someone to do that? Fixing a
massive > short? .. Oh, one last question. On the 1970+
alternator one of the > field screws holding the clip on terminal has an
insulating washer and > the other does not. Should they both have
one, as in, did I lose one > somehow? > > Here's the pics:
Thanks. > >
https://picasaweb.google.com/104998594489637903139/AlternatorPic# > >
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