Re: Front end

[Jacob Fox <imfast101@xxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks Ollie that was really informative. I haven't looked at my drums yet but when I drive slow and brake it just sounds bad, metal on metal noises maybe? So Its just a thought. I'll definitely get a tie rod puller. There's a guy not to far from my house that used to race back in the late 60s and 70s and has a shop out of his house. I'll run it by him tomorrow and get his opnion. He's helped me before. I'll post what he says, maybe some pics to just cause. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 15, 2011, at 8:43 AM, "Ollie" <satellite1965@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> I do get some what puzzled why a person would want to replace good parts? Replace only what is bad and use the money on other projects on the vehicle.
> When you begin your front end project and are going to need at least a tie rod puller. When you unbolt upper ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. they are not going to just fall out. You can get a cheap one at Auto Zone for $15. Why new brake drums if yours are good or can be turned? OME drums are better than the china drums that u will buy as replacements.
> Yes, you will have to remove the shocks.
> 
> Before I would begin a front end project step one is to find you a front end man. You are not going to walk into the the shop at Wal-Mart and expect the front end man there to know anything about our old mopars. A front end man can tell you what is bad and needs replacing. You may even need concentric A frame bushings to correct a camber problem.
> Ollie
> 
> -----Original Message----- From: Jacob Fox
> Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2011 8:23 AM
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: Front end
> 
> Yea I'm with you on that. I think that's what I'll do. I have greased everything a few times, I like keeping things maintained. The guy I bought it from early this year said a brake job was done on it, well, doesn't sound like it. So I figured what the hell I'll replace them and drums and do front end. I've never done any of this so it's all gonna be quite a ride I bet lol. If I do the control arm bushings, do I have to remove the shocks? I really hate to tear everything apart without a little guidance.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Dec 15, 2011, at 8:09 AM, Christopher Glick <mrchristopher1@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> 
>> Jacob, I would (did) remove and clean up / paint all the parts that come off.  While you're there I would replace all of it, inner / outer tie rod ends, ball joints, etc...  I say that because as you get into it you may realize that it can be tough duty to fix those things and youu won't want to do it again anytime soon, so I figure Don't right the first time, fix it all and hopefully it'll be another 40 years before things will have to get fixed again.  My 1/2 cent...
>> 
>> Christopher Glick
>> 1964 440 2 dr hrdtp
>> 
>> 
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Jacob Fox <imfast101@xxxxxxxxx>
>> To: 1962 to 1965 Mopar <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> Sent: Thu, 15 Dec 2011 13:32:52 -0000 (UTC)
>> Subject: Front end
>> 
>> Question, I'm doing my front drum brakes this weekend. The squeak in the front end is coming from a arms I believe, it's a deep squeak when u turn and body kindve "rolls" or if u bounce the front end with ur arms. Higher squeaks are when u hit little bumps really fast. Anywaysss, I was wondering while I had that goin on if there was anything easy I could fix while I'm down there. I never have done ball joints or anything like that before, but I figure I could change them while I'm down there. Keep in mind as I'm limited in tools cause someone stole them >:-( I got my handy dandy craftsman set at the moment! Lol
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
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>> 
>> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --  directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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