You may want to start at the beginning and determine exactly what your mechanical and vacuum advance is doing. It is not common but it does happen that the pointer is off or the dampener has slipped and indicating the wrong timing. It is not too hard, determine TDC of #1 piston by using a tool or making your own. When you know that the piston is exactly on TDC check the pointer. If it is not indicating TDC then this is the first thing to correct. When you have verified TDC get a timing tape for your engine or use a timing light with the knob to read advance. I have not had any luck keeping tapes on long but you will be able to keep it on long enough to get the data you need. It will help to have a friend watch a tach and write down numbers. With the vacuum advance off and plugged you will be able to record initial timing. Then increase speed until you get max mechanical advance, record the advance in degrees and rpm. Do the same with the vacuum advance connected. This will give you base line numbers. You can post the numbers and I am sure you will get comments. If it pings when you put your foot in it vacuum advance should be out of the picture, you should be just getting mechanical. You can try driving with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged to completely eliminate it as a problem. Here is an interesting article that may help: http://www.sweptline.com/tech/engine2.html Dennis C. On Nov 20, 8:24 am, Jacob Fox <imfast...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: > In my manual my 383 needs high octane. I still don't understand why I have so much pinging when I punch the accelerator. I've tried timing, I made sure my advance was working by watching timing with advance hooked up I run the high octane idk what else to do! Lol > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Nov 20, 2011, at 8:06 AM, "Gary H." <62to65mo...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > > > > > > > > > Any pinging or spark knock? > > > From a BP document: Increased octane does not increase power. > > > Higher compression and improved engine breathing will increase power. > > These modifications may lead to detonation or combustion knock which is > > then eliminated by using fuel with a higher octane. > >www.powerchipgroup.com/articles/PET0605.pdf > > > Thanks, > > Gary H. > > >> -------Original Message------- > > >> Now I think know the answer to this question, but I'm gonna ask it any > >> way. Should I be running higher octane gas in my 440? It's a 1970 engine > >> with a bit of a cam, new rings, and stock heads with high rise exhaust > >> manifiolds. It's in my 65 Polara. ... > > > -- > > -- > > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! > > > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > >http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.htmlandhttp://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. > > -- > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group. > >http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en. -- -- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group. http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.