Re: Playing with an idea

[Jacob Fox <imfast101@xxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks for the info i didn't know there were such differences between the years. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 25, 2011, at 12:16 AM, "Dave Casey" <dcasey@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> I believe it is an accurate statement that a 383 and 440 cost about the same to build. However, I would expect a 440 would cost more to acquire than a 383 (but that doesn't mean there aren't deals out there).
> 
> More expensive big blocks to build are the 361, 413, and 426W because they're not nearly as common. The result is that you end up paying somewhere around $400 for a set of cast pistons (not sure if that's still true, been awhile since I bought some for the 413). 383 and 440 pistons are much easier to come by (you can even get them from Summit, unlike the others).
> 
> All the other wear items except the valley pan are interchangeable so they cost the same.
> 
> One thing to be aware of if you build a "backup" motor is head differences from year to year. The threaded hole locations in the heads (and thus the accessory brackets) changed in the 67-68 timeframe. Someone who knows for sure could chime in and clarify. If you want to have an easy swap, you need to use heads from a similar era. Hopefully someone out there has a list of which is which. The ever popular "906" heads are the later style with a freeze plug in the end. The early heads ("452" ?) don't have freeze plugs. The really early heads only have 4 bolt bosses for the valve covers.
> 
> You should also know that some blocks aren't drilled and tapped for motor mounts required by certain models. Specifically, 65 C-body and 67-68 A-body big blocks use bosses on the driver's side other than the standard ears used by the other body styles. If you have a B-body, then there's no worries.
> 
> There might also be differences in the water pump housing depending on where your donor motor comes from.
> 
> As far as differences from other makes, the only "special" things I can think of about big block Mopars that not everybody has dealt with before is the rear main seal design and the lifter valley pan, and even those may not be completely unique concepts. My engine building experience is mostly limited to Mopars and small block Fords.
> 
> Dave Casey
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jacob Fox" <imfast101@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: "1962 to 1965 Mopar" <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2011 6:04 PM
> Subject: Playing with an idea
> 
> 
> Thinking about getting another 383 block. An building/rebuilding it outside of my car so I can still drive what I have and take my time. Never messed with Mopar motors so a couple questions:
> 
> 1) would it be more expensive/cheaper to rebuild a 383 than other big blocks? (I wanna 383 to keep car original but not necessary)
> 
> 2) are 383 parts and rebuild kits hard to come by?
> 
> 3) any special knowledge needed for a Mopar versus another motor? Not tryin to go crazy with horsepower or run drags. Just cruise around town on highway and sound decent.
> 
> 4) does anyone know someone/where I can get one cheap? Maybe someone has one rebuilt already that would save me time :-)
> 
> I kindve wanna backup motor so I can pull mine out when it fails put other in and build another one...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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