>
> > Here's a link to D.U.I.'s main page:
>
>
http://www.performancedistributors.com/You have
>
> to scroll down to the bottom of the page and click on what
> >
kind of engine you have and on what product you wish to
> >
review.
>
> > Here's a picture of the DynaBat battery. You
can
> > choose any of three terminal styles. Here's a link
to
> > the Dyna-Batt:
http://www.performancedistributors.com/batteries.htm>
>
> Here's a picture of a Mopar distributor. They make
> > them
for small blocks, big blocks and one for a Hemi.
> > They come in 4
or 5 colors and so do their "live wire" spark
> > plug wires. They
make 2 different kinds of
> > distributors, one with a coil built
into the top of the
> > distributor and one with a conventional
separate coil.
> > Now get this. You tell D.U.I. what curve you
want in
> > your distributor and they do it for you. I am
talking
> > about degrees of advance. One distributor
degree
> > equals two crankshaft degrees. Let's say you have
a
> > car that needs either a lot of initial timing to start
your
> > car. You can set your initial timing at 20 degrees
or
> > whatever you need. Then you tell D.U.I. to put an
eight
> > degree curve in your distributor. Thirty six degrees
is
> > generally considered max or near max (total timing
from
> > distributor and initial timing added together. If
20
> > degrees initial timing is no good for your engine
for
> > starting purposes, have them put 10 or 12 degrees advance
in
> > your distributor which would give you 20 or 24 degrees
of
> > advance from the distributor. Then, to get your
engine
> > to 36 degrees total timing (or whatever you need) all
you
> > have to do is to set your initial timing at idle to
either
> > 16 or 12 degrees of timing and bingo!, your engine will
now
> > have that 36 degrees of total timing.
>
> >
Here's the one with the separate coil.
>
> > Here are the
ones with a built-in coil. The "click
> > here" doesn't work on the
pics in this email. You have
> > to be on their web site to get
results from the "click here"
> > line.
>
> > Here's
a link to the "live wires":
> >
http://www.performancedistributors.com/livewire.htm>
> You tell them what color you want, the length you want for
> >
each cylinder and they mark that cable with the cylinder
> > number
for you. You can also specify what angle you
> > want on both ends
of each wire. You might want three
> > plug wires with a straight
end on the spark plug end, two
> > plug wires with a 90 degree bend
on the spark plug end and
> > maybe three plug wires with a 45
degree bend on the spark
> > plug end. On top of that, you can also
specify what
> > ends you want on the distributor end too. You can
get
> > it coming straight out of the wire or you can get
the
> > distributor end with a 90 degree bend in it. If you
>
> manage to burn up a wire, they will sell you just one
> >
wire. Or two wires. Whatever you want.
> > Here's what they look
like:
>
> > Obviously, if you are building a car that you
want to look
> > as stock as possible then this is not the stuff
you
> > want. On the other hand, if you are building a
street
> > rod where you keep the car looking pretty much stock on
the
> > outside, this equipment is highly
recommended.
>
> > This company stands by its products. I
bought a kit
> > for my PT Cruiser from them which included a set
of "live
> > wires" and a high performance coil. Then I added
a
> > good low-restriction air filter. Then I raced my
> >
friends turbocharged PT Cruiser. My car is a stick
> > shift, my
friend's car is an automatic. I pulled out
> > quickly and
feathered the clutch so I didn't spin much
> > tire. I think I had
three car lengths on my friend
> > before his wheels turned over
once. Then I thought at
> > about the halfway point (1/4 mile race)
that he would come
> > blowing past me. That never happened. I put
so
> > many car length's on him that I couldn't count them.
>
> My car is not turbo or supercharged. The right
> > equipment
can make up for a weakness somewhere else.
>
> > Besides
Hughs Engineering, Mancini's and Dvorak's places
> > which are all
Mopar all the time, this company thinks very
> > highly of its
customers and will bend over backwards to keep
> > you
happy.
>
> > Lastly, here is a picture of my engine with the
live
> > wires. I got red ones and powder-coated the caps
that
> > cover the crossram intake bolts red too. The block is
black,
> > the heads and water pump are silver and the intake is
black.
> > Note the billet plug wire separator just to the right of
the
> > valve cover. They come with either 2, 3 or 4 holes.
I
> > have some of each on each side of the engine. Also
>
> sold by D.U.I.
>
> > Hope this info helps you and/or
others.
>
> > Chick
>
> > -- --
> >
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> >
person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car
> >
transactions and negotiations as well as other personal
> >
messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
> > Clubhouse
public address. This practice will protect your
> > privacy, reduce
the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> > content signal to
Mopar topic. Thanks!
>
> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse
Discussion Guidelines:
> >
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.htmland>
>
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
>
> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to
> >
the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List
> > Clubhouse"
group.
> >
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.
>
>
--
> --
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
only one person --
> directly to that person. That is, send
parts/car transactions and
> negotiations as well as other personal
messages only to the intended
> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public
address. This practice will protect
> your privacy, reduce the total
volume of mail and fine tune the content
> signal to Mopar topic.
Thanks!
>
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