Re: Pertronix Equivalent

["Stephen Andrachek" <s.andrachek@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Note:  When I first tried to send this email I got a message telling me one 
or more pictures would not show up in the sent email and asked me to send it 
or not.  Since I don't know what picture is screwed up, I'm sending it out. 
The links are there even if the picture or pictures are not.   The pictures 
ARE at the links I provided.

Davis Unified Ignition sells a distributor with the coil built into the top 
of the distributor.  I bought one for my '62 Dodge but it is a very tall 
distributor and the '62's hood slopes down so much that the distributor 
wouldn't fit under the hood.  Although I had the distributor for over a year 
(waiting on a useless engine man to get moving on my engine) D.U.I. (as they 
are also called) told me to send it back in the original box and they would 
refund all my money.  And they did.  They are from Tennessee and all their 
stuff is made in the U.S.A.  They also make the finest spark plug wires I 
have ever seen and I bought a set of them and I'm not sorry I did.

They also sell a tiny "Dyna Bat" battery that weighs 13.5 lbs. and will 
crank your engine just as good as a big battery that weighs 3 times as much. 
I have one in my car.  Last year I locked up my garage after taking a ride 
and my brake light switch sticks and I didn't notice it.  The next time I 
went to the garage to take my car out the battery was dead.  So I took it 
out of the car and it was November so I kept the battery in the house.

In the spring I borrowed my friends car-fixing kind of place big battery 
charger.  I hooked up my battery to the charger and guess what?  The battery 
showed a normal charge and it did indeed have a full charge in it.  I never 
used a trickle charger or anything to charge that battery after it went dead 
and I'm still amazed that it rejuvinated itself just by sitting for a while.

This battery is full of gel and sealed.  It is only $120 and comes complete 
with a mounting bracket.  I did the brake light thing again and again the 
battery, though completely dead, rejuvinated itself in a few weeks.  I don't 
know how they do that, but they do.

Below is the distributor with the built-in coil.



Here's a link to the companies "work" page where they hook up one of their 
distributors and test it and a whole lot more info: 
http://www.streetlegaltv.com/forum/d-u-i-street-strip-distributor-5593.html

Here's a link to D.U.I.'s main page: 
http://www.performancedistributors.com/  You have to scroll down to the 
bottom of the page and click on what kind of engine you have and on what 
product you wish to review.

Here's a picture of the DynaBat battery.  You can choose any of three 
terminal styles.  Here's a link to the Dyna-Batt: 
http://www.performancedistributors.com/batteries.htm

Here's a picture of a Mopar distributor.  They make them for small blocks, 
big blocks and one for a Hemi.  They come in 4 or 5 colors and so do their 
"live wire" spark plug wires.  They make 2 different kinds of distributors, 
one with a coil built into the top of the distributor and one with a 
conventional separate coil.  Now get this.  You tell D.U.I. what curve you 
want in your distributor and they do it for you.  I am talking about degrees 
of advance.  One distributor degree equals two crankshaft degrees.  Let's 
say you have a car that needs either a lot of initial timing to start your 
car.  You can set your initial timing at 20 degrees or whatever you need. 
Then you tell D.U.I. to put an eight degree curve in your distributor. 
Thirty six degrees is generally considered max or near max (total timing 
from distributor and initial timing added together.  If 20 degrees initial 
timing is no good for your engine for starting purposes, have them put 10 or 
12 degrees advance in your distributor which would give you 20 or 24 degrees 
of advance from the distributor.  Then, to get your engine to 36 degrees 
total timing (or whatever you need) all you have to do is to set your 
initial timing at idle to either 16 or 12 degrees of timing and bingo!, your 
engine will now have that 36 degrees of total timing.

Here's the one with the separate coil.


Here are the ones with a built-in coil.  The "click here" doesn't work on 
the pics in this email.  You have to be on their web site to get results 
from the "click here" line.









Here's a link to the "live wires": 
http://www.performancedistributors.com/livewire.htm
You tell them what color you want, the length you want for each cylinder and 
they mark that cable with the cylinder number for you.  You can also specify 
what angle you want on both ends of each wire.  You might want three plug 
wires with a straight end on the spark plug end, two plug wires with a 90 
degree bend on the spark plug end and maybe three plug wires with a 45 
degree bend on the spark plug end.  On top of that, you can also specify 
what ends you want on the distributor end too.  You can get it coming 
straight out of the wire or you can get the distributor end with a 90 degree 
bend in it.  If you manage to burn up a wire, they will sell you just one 
wire.  Or two wires.  Whatever you want.  Here's what they look like:































Obviously, if you are building a car that you want to look as stock as 
possible then this is not the stuff you want.  On the other hand, if you are 
building a street rod where you keep the car looking pretty much stock on 
the outside, this equipment is highly recommended.

This company stands by its products.  I bought a kit for my PT Cruiser from 
them which included a set of "live wires" and a high performance coil.  Then 
I added a good low-restriction air filter.  Then I raced my friends 
turbocharged PT Cruiser.  My car is a stick shift, my friend's car is an 
automatic.  I pulled out quickly and feathered the clutch so I didn't spin 
much tire.  I think I had three car lengths on my friend before his wheels 
turned over once.  Then I thought at about the halfway point (1/4 mile race) 
that he would come blowing past me.  That never happened.  I put so many car 
length's on him that I couldn't count them.  My car is not turbo or 
supercharged.  The right equipment can make up for a weakness somewhere 
else.

Besides Hughs Engineering, Mancini's and Dvorak's places which are all Mopar 
all the time, this company thinks very highly of its customers and will bend 
over backwards to keep you happy.

Lastly, here is a picture of my engine with the live wires.  I got red ones 
and powder-coated the caps that cover the crossram intake bolts red too. The 
block is black, the heads and water pump are silver and the intake is black. 
Note the billet plug wire separator just to the right of the valve cover. 
They come with either 2, 3 or 4 holes.  I have some of each on each side of 
the engine.  Also sold by D.U.I.

Hope this info helps you and/or others.

Chick


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