Bill,OK; I will e-mail you off list with a list of HP Poly parts and create several Stroker Poly scenarios so you can get an idea of expected HP&Torque. You can then shop for your parts to get the right combo at the best prices from asstd. vendors.
Gary Pavlovich-----Original Message----- From: Bill M
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 1:10 PM To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: Just daydreaming...Sleeper ideas? Gary, Well I guess my "general goal" is to have something that will have PLENTY of HP, and still cruise well as we drive this car a TON. I only pay attention to advertised power as a general number. My INITIAL thought was a ~400 CI stroker setup (4" crank?) that will run on 93 octane pump gas. I like to 400 CI simply because it's a nice LARGE number!!! :), but maybe the ~360 CI setup will create the power I want...dunno. I definitely want to surprise the $h!t out of anyone that wants to play on the street...especially smart a$$ mustangs!! I don't have an expected budget because I just don't have any clue what parts or machine work it will cost, and what of both will be required...I guess I was looking for the recipes of parts and work (and approximate costs) that you mentioned in your email so I can start totaling it up...and allocating funds!!! Bill On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 2:47 PM, Gary Pavlovich <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx> wrote:
OK; let us know how we can help. I suggest writing down your planned buidwith the cost of parts and machine work next to the "plan." Be honest with your goals/usage and don't let any claim of rear wheel HP & Torque cause you to stray from building a "fun" package...like I said, 350+ REAL HP will give you traction issues that you can easily/inexpensively harness; any more thanthat will require more money for suspension mods.... Gary Pavlovich -----Original Message----- From: fd_colorado Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 10:42 AM To: The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse Subject: Re: Just daydreaming...Sleeper ideas? Thanks everybody! Ditto...Esp. Gary for all the great info! On Jul 19, 9:21 am, Dave64 <lt7d...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:Great info, Gary - thanks. Dave '64 Belvedere 2DHT 318 Poly, Push Button Auto Originally Florida A/C Car --- On Fri, 7/15/11, Gary Pavlovich <glpavlov...@xxxxxxx> wrote: From: Gary Pavlovich <glpavlov...@xxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Just daydreaming...Sleeper ideas? To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Friday, July 15, 2011, 12:19 PM I would agree with Dodger that the 360 can build easy HP as the recipesare numerous and you have any shop that can do the build. However, you needto determine what your real goals and intentions for your car is. Readingyour e-mail lets me know it is an “original” car so do you want to have the original look with a wallop packed under the hood – ala, sleeper? How much HP do you want vs. what you really need to lose traction on the street withDrag Radials? We can only give you our opinions as to what we would do but we know what kind of car we want to build. Saying that, I will give you my opinion and best guess as to what you are looking for in your build; pump gas engine with enough HP and torque tosmoke the tires at will but not unmanageable street manners – it must starteasily, not require extensive tuning to maintain driving pleasure, not require more than 3500rpm stall convertor and a 3.91 rear gear...a nicelooking, hard running, sleeper car, with that nostalgic 1963MOPAR look & HotRod stance (perhaps aftermarket rims and 235/.60-14 or 15 Drag Radials;Hoosier/BFG/MT) enough mods to stay within your budget w/o compromising your“performance.” Need to assess your true street to strip driving ratio as well. I would choose the 318 Poly in Hot Street modified form or a 360 Stroker Poly. Reasons: No expense and hassle of buying a 360 core engine and changing the motormounts and swapping to an externally balanced convertor for the externallybalanced 360 engine. The 360 is ubiquitous (everywhere/common) and doesn’t look“right/correct/or impressive at all” in the engine bay of a 1963 Plymouth”and will maintain or increase the value and or desirability of your car. It will also “personalize” your car...think about what that means to you. The 318 Poly is impressive looking (wider than a 440) and appearscorrect/nostalgic/generates more attention & questions than a HEMI in yourengine bay...that really is worth something at cruise nights... “ “ “ will not require any chassis modifications other than to replaced the old parts – no modifications/adjustments to anything. “ “ “ High Performance parts are all available and easilyobtained new except for the intake manifold and there are plenty available on E-bay and swap meets to make this a non-issue; especially the dual quads.The 318 Poly will meet and exceed all your HP & Torque goals without exceeding your budget and easily make 425HP and 450ft.lbs.torque in 360” econo Stroker trim and 350-375HP in HOT stock stroke trim. NOTE: read Nick Tiberio’s e-mail comments about his 360 Stroker Poly Iforwarded to this list and question some Poly builder/owners about the pros& cons of their “built” Polys vs. other options. You don’t need more than approx. 350-375 REAL HP to reach your goals outlined in your e-mail with your chassis. HOT Stock Stroke Poly: OEM pistons with head mill to achieve 9 to 9.5 to one ratio; 10 to 1 can be had as well. Port & polish the heads – 211cfm intake is enough flow for 425HP and450ft. lbs. of torque; this with headers/exhaust gives you the most bang foryour buck with an aftermarket camshaft and four barrel induction. 264/.450” (222@.050”) 110LC solid to 262/.460” (214@.050”) HYD. HP PolyCam; or 284/.480-.510” (240-242@.050”)108-110LC Poly Solid Cam to 270/.480”(230@.050”) 110LC HYD. HP Poly Cam Four barrel intake or dual quad Stock 1.84/1.56” valves OK or upgrade to 1.94/1.60” if budget allows TTI Headers a must with good 2 1/2” dual exhaust w/H or X pipe through Dynomax Super Turbos or Flowmasters...personal choice hereA 2500-3000rpm high stall convertor is recommended, but not necessary for the first stage of cam profiles but mandatory for the second choice of camprofiles and preferably a 3000-3500rpm convertor Rear gears will greatly enhance any engine modifications and a minimum of3.23 gears are requisite for any build past stock if you want to “feel” the value-added to your engine build; 3.23-3.91 for the first step and 3.55-4.10for the second step recommended. Electronic Ignition for stock and modified Poly recommendedEngine balancing and unleaded seats are “standard” in all engine builds asfar as I am concerned. 360 Stroker Poly:All the above with the exception of using LA low-compression truck pistons and fly-cutting the pistons for an intake valve relief; choice of 9 to 10 to1 compression ratio. Please e-mail me off-list for more information or a list of the parts suppliers, local machine shops, and current prices I have been able tocatalog for our “PolyHeads” to make your shopping and engine building easy. Prices are always changing in the marketplace but I try to do a search for the best part at the lowest price and pass it along to our Mail List people.Take care, Gary Pavlovich From: Dodger7...@xxxxxxx Sent: Friday, July 15, 2011 8:43 AM To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: Just daydreaming...Sleeper ideas? Drop in a late model 360,,,,,,we all know that a poly can be built, butthe parts and availability of the later engines are unmatched,,,,,,,, youwill end up with more HP, for less bucks,,,,, In a message dated 7/15/2011 10:11:13 A.M. Central Daylight Time, fd_color...@xxxxxxxxxxx writes: Sleeper Build Just doing a bit of daydreaming here... maybe you guys have some ideas, how would you spend your money and what kind of times do you think you'd achieve? the car: 1963 Plymouth Belvedere 4 dr sedan, 318ci/2bbl, 727 auto, car is totally original, e.g. 14" wheels etc. No PS, PB or air cond. Parts budget of $2500 - $5000 some of my thoughts are... front disc brake conversion if possible, widen stock rear wheels and install street/drag tire awhile back Hot Rod did a 318 budget rebuild netting 406hp for ~$1500 bucks ??? -- -- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intendedrecipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protectyour privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
-- --Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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-- -- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group. http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.