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I would agree with Dodger that the 360 can build easy HP as the recipes are
numerous and you have any shop that can do the build. However, you need to
determine what your real goals and intentions for your car is. Reading
your e-mail lets me know it is an “original” car so do you want to have the
original look with a wallop packed under the hood – ala, sleeper? How much
HP do you want vs. what you really need to lose traction on the street with Drag
Radials?
We can only give you our opinions as to what we would do but we know what
kind of car we want to build.
Saying that, I will give you my opinion and best guess as to what you are
looking for in your build; pump gas engine with enough HP and torque to smoke
the tires at will but not unmanageable street manners – it must start easily,
not require extensive tuning to maintain driving pleasure, not require more than
3500rpm stall convertor and a 3.91 rear gear...a nice looking, hard running,
sleeper car, with that nostalgic 1963MOPAR look & Hot Rod stance (perhaps
aftermarket rims and 235/.60-14 or 15 Drag Radials; Hoosier/BFG/MT) enough mods
to stay within your budget w/o compromising your “performance.” Need to
assess your true street to strip driving ratio as well.
I would choose the 318 Poly in Hot Street modified form or a 360 Stroker
Poly.
Reasons:
No expense and hassle of buying a 360 core engine and changing the motor
mounts and swapping to an externally balanced convertor for the externally
balanced 360 engine.
The 360 is ubiquitous (everywhere/common) and doesn’t look
“right/correct/or impressive at all” in the engine bay of a 1963 Plymouth” and
will maintain or increase the value and or desirability of your car.
It will also “personalize” your car...think about what that means to
you.
The 318 Poly is impressive looking (wider than a 440) and appears
correct/nostalgic/generates more attention & questions than a HEMI in your
engine bay...that really is worth something at cruise nights...
“ “ “ will not
require any chassis modifications other than to replaced the old parts – no
modifications/adjustments to anything.
“ “ “ High
Performance parts are all available and easily obtained new except for the
intake manifold and there are plenty available on E-bay and swap meets to make
this a non-issue; especially the dual quads.
The 318 Poly will meet and exceed all your HP & Torque goals without
exceeding your budget and easily make 425HP and 450ft.lbs.torque in 360” econo
Stroker trim and 350-375HP in HOT stock stroke trim.
NOTE: read Nick Tiberio’s e-mail comments about his 360 Stroker Poly I
forwarded to this list and question some Poly builder/owners about the pros
& cons of their “built” Polys vs. other options.
You don’t need more than approx. 350-375 REAL HP to reach your goals
outlined in your e-mail with your chassis.
HOT Stock Stroke Poly:
OEM pistons with head mill to achieve 9 to 9.5 to one ratio; 10 to 1 can be
had as well.
Port & polish the heads – 211cfm intake is enough flow for 425HP and
450ft. lbs. of torque; this with headers/exhaust gives you the most bang for
your buck with an aftermarket camshaft and four barrel induction.
264/.450” (222@.050”) 110LC solid to
262/.460” (214@.050”) HYD. HP Poly Cam; or
284/.480-.510” (240-242@.050”)108-110LC Poly Solid Cam
to 270/.480” (230@.050”) 110LC HYD. HP Poly
Cam
Four barrel intake or dual quad
Stock 1.84/1.56” valves OK or upgrade to 1.94/1.60” if budget allows
TTI Headers a must with good 2 1/2” dual exhaust w/H or X pipe through
Dynomax Super Turbos or Flowmasters...personal choice here
A 2500-3000rpm high stall convertor is recommended, but not necessary
for the first stage of cam profiles but mandatory for the second choice of cam
profiles and preferably a 3000-3500rpm convertor
Rear gears will greatly enhance any engine modifications and a minimum of
3.23 gears are requisite for any build past stock if you want to “feel” the
value-added to your engine build; 3.23-3.91 for the first step and 3.55-4.10 for
the second step recommended.
Electronic Ignition for stock and modified Poly recommended
Engine balancing and unleaded seats are “standard” in all engine builds as
far as I am concerned.
360 Stroker Poly:
All the above with the exception of using LA low-compression truck pistons
and fly-cutting the pistons for an intake valve relief; choice of 9 to 10 to 1
compression ratio.
Please e-mail me off-list for more information or a list of the parts
suppliers, local machine shops, and current prices I have been able to catalog
for our “PolyHeads” to make your shopping and engine building easy.
Prices are always changing in the marketplace but I try to do a search for
the best part at the lowest price and pass it along to our Mail List
people.
Take care,
Gary Pavlovich
From: Dodger7998@xxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2011 8:43 AM
Subject: Re: Just daydreaming...Sleeper ideas? Drop in a late model 360,,,,,,we all know that a poly can be built, but the
parts and availability of the later engines are unmatched,,,,,,,, you will
end up with more HP, for less bucks,,,,,
In a message dated 7/15/2011 10:11:13 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
fd_colorado@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
Sleeper Build -- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group. http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en. -- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group. http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en. |
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