Re: Opinion on ignition

[Jacob Fox <imfast101@xxxxxxxxx>]

Yea for sure, ain't broke! I was talking about the intake manifold I already have new exhaust all the way back. I never heard of petronix, I'll def check it out. I just want to take care of it and keep it running good. I don't really mind the maintenance bought it so that I would have something to do. I like tinkering but I hate big jobs haha.  

Thanks for the info on the valves I had no idea. I have some clattering when I take off I'm guessing that's do to timing? I'm new to these motors so I don't know much. I don't even see a timing tab By the crank. 

The seal will def have to be done in winter. Be easier to work on. Does it require a motor pull? I know it might be hard to get to and drop pan etc in the car. 

Does anyone know how to tell if it ever had a rebuild in the car?? Thanks! 

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 6, 2011, at 3:02 PM, Herb <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

To keep it original or 64 factory looking I would use a Pertronix electronic ignition unit in your original distributor.  It is as simple to install as changing the points.  If you don't care about appearance or originality, you can use a 71 & up MoPar ECU & distributor to convert it over.

 

Rear main seals are about the same pain as chebies.  Unlike GM's (Get a Mechanic) MoPar's valve trains are of high quality and precise tolerances, thus are un-adjustable.  Sounds like you have a very slight oil leak, so I would wait and do the seal replacement for a winter project.

 

If your a GM guy your probably right about 110K is high mileage, but for your 383 it's just getting broke in!  If an engine is well maintained it will exceed 100K all day long and it sounds as if that is the case with your 383.  If it's not broke don't fix it!!

 

-------Original Message-------

 

From: Jacob Fox

Date: 7/6/2011 12:27:04 PM

To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Subject: Opinion on ignition

 

So, I was wondering if y'all think it would be better to keep my motor original and keep the points etc, or switch distributor out of a new electronic. Also how would I go about doing that?

 

On a slightly unrelated topic, how hard are the rear main seals to change on the 383? I got a little droplet after running my car, slightly annoying, but on Chevys they weren't that bad with a two piece..just sucks changing them. I gotta take valve covers off soon and put new gaskets cause of leak and I'ma repaint while off. Does anyone know how to adjust valves? I'm thinking no one has never touched the motor and it's got 110k on it...if I had the money and knowledge for a rebuild I'd love to...

 

But anyways, while it's running so well and not smoking at all I thought I'd keep it up...is there anyway to tell from the outside whether a motor has been rebuilt before?? The guy I got it from just had it for a short time and didn't know...figured 110k is kindve a lot of a old mopar motor like that...any help would be great!

 

 

 

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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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