Re: Master Cylinder (was Brake Light Switch - and Electrical question be
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Re: Master Cylinder (was Brake Light Switch - and Electrical question before that!)



The front brakes do most of the stopping.....

When a raced my 65 fury One police surplus car, i had a hydraulic valve to shut off the back brakes
while at the track...

I did not have enough brakes to make the first turn off after the finish line so i just let it roll to the end.

Mel Larson's Drag Strip in Phoenix Az...late 60's before I was asked to go on my army vacation.

On master cylinders, found it both ways. A dual cylinder rebuild kit was $25.00, I could get a rebuilt
master cylinder for $14.95.

My old truck...single cylinder master was $79.00 dollars, the rebuild kit was $5.95. So I bought the kit,
a hone to clean up the bore, and was still under $20 into the project.

Our 65 satellite project car got the front disks and dual cylinder and lines from a 73 dart.

rob/ferts/phx

On 6/12/11 8:05 PM, Dave64 wrote:
Thanks for the replies.  I know the fronts do most of the braking, but I haven't had a bit of trouble with the larger rear drums.  No real difference from when I had the same size all the way around.  The reason I have 11" on the back now is I swapped in a later year rearend last spring.  I may eventually put discs on the front.

Ollie - thanks for your comments.  That was another one of my thoughts - to go to a dual.

Thanks,

Dave
'64 Belvedere 2DHT
318 Poly, Push Button Auto
Originally Florida A/C Car


--- On Sun, 6/12/11, Ollie<satellite1965@xxxxxxxxxxx>  wrote:

From: Ollie<satellite1965@xxxxxxxxxxx>

If it is a single bowl I would
surely  replace it with a dual. Just for piece of mind
if any other reason. Get a good one at O'Rielys and it is
life time warranty.
Ollie



To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Master Cylinder (was Brake Light Switch - and
Electrical question before that!)

Another option would be to get it sleeved in brass (or
maybe it's
bronze) or stainless and then put in an original size
rebuild kit.

On 6/12/2011 6:37 PM, Mike&  Deb wrote:
Hi Dave,
I would rebuild the original if the bore is not too
pitted. You can hone out some pitting and a slight amount
will not adversely affect braking action, but deep pits will
require a different master cylinder. I have bought rebuilts
that wouldn't work-so if you buy a reman- buy good quality.
You shouldn't have mismatched drum sizes on your car. The
front brakes do the majority of the work so they typically
have a larger friction area than the rear. Are the rears
locking up before the fronts?
Mike LeFevre







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