RE: Front hubs / studs?

[Nick Tiberio <furyus63@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

On my original cast iron drums I could not press them out, they had to 
be cut.

Nick





Jim Altemose wrote:
> 
> Nick,
> 
> Thanks for the info.  The NAPA drums are P/N: ND 4401056
> 
> https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=3DNDA4401056_03=
> 
> 25240437&An=3D599001+101963+50020+2020032+25003&Ar=3DAND%28P_RecType%3aA%29
> 
> 
> It sounds like a set of old used cast iron drums are the way to go.
> I'll have to wait another week to talk to Craig.  He's off to the
> Spring Carlisle show.
> 
> I also just want to clarify something for myself.  The stock studs can
> NOT be pressed off, true?  They're 'swaged' and you need a special
> cutting tool.  You'll ruin the hub by pressing, true?
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> - Jim
> Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY
> '63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge)
> '63 Polara 500 (383)
> '65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge)
> '71 Bronco
> 
> On Mon, Apr 25, 2011 at 5:10 PM, Nick  Tiberio <furyus63@xxxxxxxxxxx> 
> wrote=
> :
> >
> > Jim,
> >
> > These after market steel drums were on my 63' Sport Fury and after
> > approximately 1000 miles of driving the front drums were warped so bad
> > that the steering wheel would rock back & forth an inch. In stop & go
> > traffic they would sing making people on the sidewalk shake their heads.
> > Worst of all getting of the exit 55-60 mph, they would fade requiring
> > pumping to stop. The heat would transfer to my Crager wheels and be so
> > hot I could not touch to clean them at a show. I was told by a brake
> > shop that sometimes these off-shore drums could be turned after warping
> > and they would not warp further. I don't know how true this is.
> >
> > I picked up 10 x 2 1/2 cast iron drums from Mobile Parts, Craig Studnick
> > on the business card, Craig Stanley is who you most likely talk to on
> > the phone. The drums #2915/1926 & Raybestos/Bendix shoes #R333 have
> > worked without problems.
> >
> > When I replaced my studs (all right hand) for 1963 and several years
> > before, for rear wheel studs that press into the hub and brake drum I
> > found that NAPA Part # 641-1157 will work. Wheel bolt 169 1/2-20 x 1 5/8
> > inch.=E2=80=9D
> >
> > I have no information on hubs but I'm sure there are many good used
> > units out there. I see Craig several times a year at shows and if he has
> > any in stock I'm going to pick them up. I know you're not far from him
> > and I think you're right across the pond from me, Port Jeff Ferry
> > anyway.
> >
> > Nick Tiberio
> > FuryUs63
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Jim Altemose wrote:
> >>
> >> I spoke with Craig Studnick from Mobile Parts who is an expert on old
> >> brakes. =C2=A0I'd ordered a set of 10 inch drums from Napa but Craig 
> >> say=
> s
> >> they're made from bad Chinese metal and warp right away. =C2=A0Can 
> >> anyon=
> e
> >> confirm or deny this? =C2=A0I've already paid for them and would like to
> >> use them, but not if they're complete garbage.
> >>
> >> As always, thanks.
> >>
> >> - Jim
> >> Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY
> >> '63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge)
> >> '63 Polara 500 (383)
> >> '65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge)
> >> '71 Bronco
> >>
> >> On Mon, Apr 25, 2011 at 11:31 AM, Jim Altemose <jaltemoose@xxxxxxxxx>
> >> wrote=3D
> >> :
> >> >
> >> > I'm a dumb-ass. =3DC2=3DA0I need new front 10 inch drums on my 63 Pola=
> ra 500
> >> > (383). =3DC2=3DA0I made the rookie mistake of pounding the studs with =
> a BFH
> >> > t=3D
> >> o
> >> > get the hubs off the drums, figuring I could just replace the studs on
> >> > the hub. =3DC2=3DA0So after getting nowhere fast by trying to pound ou=
> t the
> >> > studs, I reviewed some of the postings here and realize now that
> >> > they're 'swedged' in.
> >> >
> >> > So, after ruining everything I need new hubs and studs. =3DC2=3DA0Anyo=
> ne
> >> > know=3D
> >> =C2=A0a
> >> > good source?
> >> >
> >> > Thanks.
> >> >
> >> > - Jim
> >> > Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY
> >> > '63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge)
> >> > '63 Polara 500 (383)
> >> > '65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge)
> >> > '71 Bronco
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > ----
> >> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
> >> > dir=3D
> >> ectly to that person. =3DC2=3DA0I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> >> negotiati=3D
> >> ons as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient,
> >> not =3D
> >> to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your
> >> privacy, r=3D
> >> educe the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
> >> to=3D
> >> pic. =3DC2=3DA0Thanks!
> >> >
> >> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> >> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> >> > http://www.1962to1=3D
> >> 965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> >
> >
> >
> > furyus63
> >
> >
> > ----
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- 
> > dir=
> ectly to that person. =C2=A0I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
> negotiati=
> ons as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, 
> not =
> to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your 
> privacy, r=
> educe the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar 
> to=
> pic. =C2=A0Thanks!
> >
> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and 
> > http://www.1962to1=
> 965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> >
> >



furyus63


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.