RE: Fw: Brake woes

[62pluckedchicken@xxxxxxxxx]

OK, now I'm catching on... I was thinking the drums would have to be 
removed to drill out the rivets.  When I go back to the shop on Monday 
I'll be armed with new knowledge, and maybe have my ride back soon :)

Thanks for all your help
Steve Mick wrote:
> 
> You can leave the hubs on the car. no need to pull the hubs off. Grind 
> off 
> rivit heads.they will be on the outside of the drum. Punch the remaining 
> 
> rivit toward the inside of the drum. they will fall out when you take 
> off 
> the drum from the hub. . You may have to drill out the remaining rivit 
> if 
> you can't punch them out.
> 
> This method is so you don't have to remove the hubs and if the new drums 
> are 
> the correct size ( including the larger hole in the middle. You can now 
> mount them to the hub as per earlier post.  It would help if you had a 
> shop 
> manual to make sure all your brake componets are installed correctly. 
> Have 
> Rob call me if you get started and have a problem 712 542 9062 
> ...........MO
> {Steve Mick}
> http://stevemick1964dodge.shutterfly.com/pictures/5
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <62pluckedchicken@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2011 7:11 PM
> Subject: RE: Fw: Brake woes
> 
> 
> >
> > "You don't have to take the hubs off the tapered axle. but if you do,
> > backing plate is already mounted to housing flange. Mount all brake
> > components to backin plate( this can be done with the hub on.)"
> >
> > You're talking about after we get the hubs off the old drums, and put
> > the hubs on the axle by themselves... right?
> >
> > Steve Mick wrote:
> >>
> >> I don't recall how many rivits,. I would thi nk at least 4.  You don't
> >> have
> >> to take the hubs off the tapered axle. but if you do, backing plate is
> >> already nounted to housing flange. Mount all brake componets to backin
> >> plate( this can be done with the hub on.) . Install the drum onto the
> >> wheel
> >> studs. Then put the wheel on and than the wheelnuts. The wheel and nuts
> >> hold
> >> the whole thing together like later modle cars do.............MO
> >> {Steve Mick}
> >> http://stevemick1964dodge.shutterfly.com/pictures/5
> >> ----- Original Message ----- 
> >> From: <62pluckedchicken@xxxxxxxxx>
> >> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> >> Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2011 4:01 PM
> >> Subject: RE: Fw: Brake woes
> >>
> >>
> >> >
> >> > Thanks Steve,  I think I'm starting to catch on... I don't have the
> >> > drums here to visualize, but I have to go over to Rob's shop tomorrow 
> >> > to
> >> > deliver the shoes.
> >> >
> >> > earlier posts talked of 3 large rivets, that hold the hub to the drum,
> >> > is that correct?
> >> >
> >> > As far as putting on the new drums...
> >> >
> >> > Are you saying mount the hub on the tapered axle first, place the drums
> >> > on, then tightening the lugs hold the whole drum/hub together?
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Steve Mick wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> {Steve Mick}
> >> >> http://stevemick1964dodge.shutterfly.com/pictures/5
> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- 
> >> >> From: "Steve Mick" <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >> >> To: "Steve Mick" <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >> >> Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2011 11:14 AM
> >> >> Subject: Re: Brake woes
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> > Lost in space--I am re-sending this. I know there are posts that I 
> >> >> > have
> >> >> > missed getting ........................MO
> >> >> > {Steve Mick}
> >> >> > http://stevemick1964dodge.shutterfly.com/pictures/5
> >> >> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> >> >> > From: "Steve Mick" <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >> >> > To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> >> >> > Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2011 12:34 AM
> >> >> > Subject: Re: Brake woes
> >> >> >
> >> >> >
> >> >> >> Bob, It is usually the front drums are swedged tight around the 
> >> >> >> wheel
> >> >> >> studs. Any drums that are swedged to the studs can be freed by 
> >> >> >> useing
> >> >> >> a
> >> >> >> hole saw thar just barely goes over the wheelstuds and cuts the 
> >> >> >> drum
> >> >> >> free
> >> >> >> from around those studs.  The rear drum can be seperated from the 
> >> >> >> rear
> >> >> >> taper hub by grinding off the rivits  heads that attach the hub to 
> >> >> >> the
> >> >> >> drum and then either punch them out or drill them out.  I don't 
> >> >> >> think
> >> >> >> the
> >> >> >> rear drums are swedged to the wheelstuds because the rivits held 
> >> >> >> them
> >> >> >> together.  When you put the drums back on, you do not need to
> >> >> >> re-swedge
> >> >> >> them or re-rivit them. The wheel tightened up by the wheel nuts 
> >> >> >> will
> >> >> >> clamp the drums to the hubs, like later modle
> >> >> >> cars...............................MO
> >> >> >> {Steve Mick}
> >> >> >> http://stevemick1964dodge.shutterfly.com/pictures/5
> >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- 
> >> >> >> From: <62pluckedchicken@xxxxxxxxx>
> >> >> >> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> >> >> >> Sent: Friday, April 15, 2011 9:40 PM
> >> >> >> Subject: RE: Brake woes
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >>>
> >> >> >>> Hi Tom,
> >> >> >>>
> >> >> >>> I'm not familiar with brakes on the Dart, I barely have a minimal
> >> >> >>> knowledge of my Chrysler's brakes ;(
> >> >> >>>
> >> >> >>> The rear drums on my Chrysler have to go on a tapered axle, the 
> >> >> >>> drums
> >> >> >>> I
> >> >> >>> bought don't have the hubs pre-fitted to the center hole, so they
> >> >> >>> must
> >> >> >>> come from the old drums.
> >> >> >>>
> >> >> >>> I don't need to save the old drums, we already tried using them 
> >> >> >>> and
> >> >> >>> the
> >> >> >>> brakes locked up, to the point of getting smoking hot... the old
> >> >> >>> drums
> >> >> >>> are shot.
> >> >> >>>
> >> >> >>> I do need to tell my mechanic how to get the hubs off the old 
> >> >> >>> drums
> >> >> >>> and
> >> >> >>> how to attach the hubs to the new drums.
> >> >> >>>
> >> >> >>> I'll fill in my mechanic about the swedge cutting tool used to 
> >> >> >>> remove
> >> >> >>> the hubs, and see if he's familiar with it.
> >> >> >>>
> >> >> >>> I'm still not clear on how the hubs are then attached to the new
> >> >> >>> drums.
> >> >> >>> the hubs just rest against the drums???
> >> >> >>>
> >> >> >>> Tom Watters wrote:
> >> >> >>>>
> >> >> >>>> If it's like the front hubs on my dart, originally the drums were
> >> >> >>>> swedged to the hub on the knurls at the end of the lug studs. 
> >> >> >>>> There
> >> >> >>>> is
> >> >> >>>> a swedge cutting tool that fits around the lug stud that can be 
> >> >> >>>> used
> >> >> >>>> to
> >> >> >>>> cut the swedged kunrls and the drum (Can Slightly enlarge the 
> >> >> >>>> hole).
> >> >> >>>> Then hub can be pressed out of the drum, if cutting the swedging
> >> >> >>>> didnt
> >> >> >>>> release it.
> >> >> >>>>
> >> >> >>>> Done right, the hub and the drum survive.
> >> >> >>>>
> >> >> >>>> Done wrong, holes can be enlarged in the hub such that they have 
> >> >> >>>> to
> >> >> >>>> get
> >> >> >>>> oversized knurl studs to be able to fit.  Or drum can end up bent 
> >> >> >>>> at
> >> >> >>>> the
> >> >> >>>>
> >> >> >>>> hub and be worthless.
> >> >> >>>>
> >> >> >>>> On the new drum's, once your lugnuts are on and torqued down, the
> >> >> >>>> wheel
> >> >> >>>> holds the drum from moving.
> >> >> >>>>
> >> >> >>>> --Tom
> >> >> >>>>
> >> >> >>>> On 4/13/2011 6:49 AM, 62pluckedchicken@xxxxxxxxx wrote:
> >> >> >>>> > I searched the Internet, and found a post removing/install the 
> >> >> >>>> > hun
> >> >> >>>> > on
> >> >> >>>> > drums, saying "grind off or drill through the rivets" but the
> >> >> >>>> > discussion
> >> >> >>>> > on installing on the new drums says that rivets aren't 
> >> >> >>>> > needed...
> >> >> >>>> > how
> >> >> >>>> > does the hub stay in place on the new drums?
> >> >> >>>> > Gary H. wrote:
> >> >> >>>> >>
> >> >> >>>> >> Kantor's version is probably just the drum. As you say, the
> >> >> >>>> >> picture
> >> >> >>>> >> indicates so as well.
> >> >> >>>> >>
> >> >> >>>> >> I'll continue to look through the archive files for the 
> >> >> >>>> >> procedure
> >> >> >>>> >> if
> >> >> >>>> >> you
> >> >> >>>> >>
> >> >> >>>> >> get stuck.
> >> >> >>>> >>
> >> >> >>>> >> Thanks,
> >> >> >>>> >> Gary H.
> >> >> >>>> >>
> >> >> >>>> >>
> >> >> >>>> >> 62pluckedchicken  wrote:
> >> >> >>>> >>> I'll give him a call, and see what he says about removing the
> >> >> >>>> >>> hubs.. I
> >> >> >>>> >>> wonder if the one from Kantor don't have the hubs either. The
> >> >> >>>> >>> part
> >> >> >>>> >>> picture doesn't show th hub
> >> >> >>>> >
> >> >> >>>> > ----
> >> >> >>>> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> >> >> >>>> > person -- 
> >> >> >>>> > directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> >> >> >>>> > negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the
> >> >> >>>> > intended
> >> >> >>>> > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice 
> >> >> >>>> > will
> >> >> >>>> > protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine
> >> >> >>>> > tune
> >> >> >>>> > the
> >> >> >>>> > content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> >> >> >>>> >
> >> >> >>>> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> >> >> >>>> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> >> >> >>>> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> >> >> >>>> >
> >> >> >>>>
> >> >> >>>>
> >> >> >>>> -- 
> >> >> >>>> -- 65 Dart GT Convertible 4bbl 4spd
> >> >> >>>> -- North Las Vegas, NV
> >> >> >>>>
> >> >> >>>
> >> >> >>>
> >> >> >>> ----
> >> >> >>> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one 
> >> >> >>> person --
> >> >> >>> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> >> >> >>> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the 
> >> >> >>> intended
> >> >> >>> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
> >> >> >>> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine 
> >> >> >>> tune
> >> >> >>> the
> >> >> >>> content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> >> >> >>>
> >> >> >>> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> >> >> >>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> >> >> >>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> >> >> >>>
> >> >> >>>
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >
> >> >>
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > ----
> >> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
> >> > directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> >> > negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
> >> > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
> >> > protect
> >> > your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
> >> > signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> >> >
> >> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> >> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> >> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >
> >
> > ----
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --  
> > directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
> > negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended 
> > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will 
> > protect 
> > your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content 
> > signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> >
> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and 
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> >
> > 
> 


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.