{Steve Mick}
http://stevemick1964dodge.shutterfly.com/pictures/5
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Mick" <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Steve Mick" <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2011 11:14 AM
Subject: Re: Brake woes
> Lost in space--I am re-sending this. I know there are posts that I have
> missed getting ........................MO
> {Steve Mick}
> http://stevemick1964dodge.shutterfly.com/pictures/5
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Mick" <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2011 12:34 AM
> Subject: Re: Brake woes
>
>
>> Bob, It is usually the front drums are swedged tight around the wheel
>> studs. Any drums that are swedged to the studs can be freed by useing
>> a
>> hole saw thar just barely goes over the wheelstuds and cuts the drum
>> free
>> from around those studs. The rear drum can be seperated from the rear
>> taper hub by grinding off the rivits heads that attach the hub to the
>> drum and then either punch them out or drill them out. I don't think
>> the
>> rear drums are swedged to the wheelstuds because the rivits held them
>> together. When you put the drums back on, you do not need to
>> re-swedge
>> them or re-rivit them. The wheel tightened up by the wheel nuts will
>> clamp the drums to the hubs, like later modle
>> cars...............................MO
>> {Steve Mick}
>> http://stevemick1964dodge.shutterfly.com/pictures/5
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <62pluckedchicken@xxxxxxxxx>
>> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
>> Sent: Friday, April 15, 2011 9:40 PM
>> Subject: RE: Brake woes
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Hi Tom,
>>>
>>> I'm not familiar with brakes on the Dart, I barely have a minimal
>>> knowledge of my Chrysler's brakes ;(
>>>
>>> The rear drums on my Chrysler have to go on a tapered axle, the drums
>>> I
>>> bought don't have the hubs pre-fitted to the center hole, so they
>>> must
>>> come from the old drums.
>>>
>>> I don't need to save the old drums, we already tried using them and
>>> the
>>> brakes locked up, to the point of getting smoking hot... the old
>>> drums
>>> are shot.
>>>
>>> I do need to tell my mechanic how to get the hubs off the old drums
>>> and
>>> how to attach the hubs to the new drums.
>>>
>>> I'll fill in my mechanic about the swedge cutting tool used to remove
>>> the hubs, and see if he's familiar with it.
>>>
>>> I'm still not clear on how the hubs are then attached to the new
>>> drums.
>>> the hubs just rest against the drums???
>>>
>>> Tom Watters wrote:
>>>>
>>>> If it's like the front hubs on my dart, originally the drums were
>>>> swedged to the hub on the knurls at the end of the lug studs. There
>>>> is
>>>> a swedge cutting tool that fits around the lug stud that can be used
>>>> to
>>>> cut the swedged kunrls and the drum (Can Slightly enlarge the hole).
>>>> Then hub can be pressed out of the drum, if cutting the swedging
>>>> didnt
>>>> release it.
>>>>
>>>> Done right, the hub and the drum survive.
>>>>
>>>> Done wrong, holes can be enlarged in the hub such that they have to
>>>> get
>>>> oversized knurl studs to be able to fit. Or drum can end up bent at
>>>> the
>>>>
>>>> hub and be worthless.
>>>>
>>>> On the new drum's, once your lugnuts are on and torqued down, the
>>>> wheel
>>>> holds the drum from moving.
>>>>
>>>> --Tom
>>>>
>>>> On 4/13/2011 6:49 AM, 62pluckedchicken@xxxxxxxxx wrote:
>>>> > I searched the Internet, and found a post removing/install the hun
>>>> > on
>>>> > drums, saying "grind off or drill through the rivets" but the
>>>> > discussion
>>>> > on installing on the new drums says that rivets aren't needed...
>>>> > how
>>>> > does the hub stay in place on the new drums?
>>>> > Gary H. wrote:
>>>> >>
>>>> >> Kantor's version is probably just the drum. As you say, the
>>>> >> picture
>>>> >> indicates so as well.
>>>> >>
>>>> >> I'll continue to look through the archive files for the procedure
>>>> >> if
>>>> >> you
>>>> >>
>>>> >> get stuck.
>>>> >>
>>>> >> Thanks,
>>>> >> Gary H.
>>>> >>
>>>> >>
>>>> >> 62pluckedchicken wrote:
>>>> >>> I'll give him a call, and see what he says about removing the
>>>> >>> hubs.. I
>>>> >>> wonder if the one from Kantor don't have the hubs either. The
>>>> >>> part
>>>> >>> picture doesn't show th hub
>>>> >
>>>> > ----
>>>> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
>>>> > person --
>>>> > directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
>>>> > negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the
>>>> > intended
>>>> > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
>>>> > protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine
>>>> > tune
>>>> > the
>>>> > content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
>>>> >
>>>> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
>>>> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
>>>> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
>>>> >
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> -- 65 Dart GT Convertible 4bbl 4spd
>>>> -- North Las Vegas, NV
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ----
>>> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
>>> directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
>>> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
>>> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
>>> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune
>>> the
>>> content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
>>>
>>> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
>>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
>>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
>>>
>>>
>>
>
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