Re: FINALLY!!!
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Re: FINALLY!!!




Steve,

My first thought it may be old gummy fuel causing erratic behavior.

Gary
----- Original Message ----- From: "MO ( Steve Mick)" <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2011 10:51 PM
Subject: Re: FINALLY!!!



The former owner put in about 5 gallons last Fall, to which I put in some Sea Foam. And then last week I added about 5 gallons of fresh gas..Are you thinking maybe water giving some problem?...............MO
{Steve Mick}
http://stevemick1964dodge.shutterfly.com/pictures/5
----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Pavlovich" <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2011 9:09 PM
Subject: Re: FINALLY!!!



Steve,

Good news indeed!

You were indefatigable in your search for the problem and it paid off.

Is the fuel fresh or is it months old?

Gary P.
----- Original Message ----- From: "MO ( Steve Mick)" <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2011 4:46 PM
Subject: FINALLY!!!



WWWHHHOOOOOO---HHHAAAAA I got my 64 Sport Fury(383) to start and run on it's own. No battery jumper or spritzing in gas in the carb. I did not have a AH-HA! smokeing gun moment during the whole ordeal. This Fury had been used as a drag car, and when the former owner decided to sell it. I think he took off the good ignition and carb and put some things he had laying around back on it. There were so many things wrong he prolly got sick of it and then I came along with some cash in hand. Some rare times it would start when you let off the key switch and then run fairly well. for a short time. I am somewhat good at diagnosis but it stymied me! I knew nothing about Nopar electronic ignition or how to trace down an ignition problem with them. So I went back to a rebuilt points distributor. No go. I messed around with jumper wires and such that I can't remember the sequence of what I did. I know I learned what a balladst resister does and how it works now. I got some wireing diagrams and started sorting out the jumble of wires. I found that the hot wire to the ballast was the wrong one. It would shut off the power to it when the engine was cranking. So I found the wire that remained hot when cranking the starter. and hooked it to the input side of the ballast he engine would run with a boost of gas to start it, but after a short while, would die. I messed with the timeing but had to guess as the engine would not run long enough to know when it was close. Rebuilt dist did not have hardly any point gap . Set that, no go. Changed out the old MsSD coil for one that does not need a external ballast resister. No go. Took off the 3310 Hlley carb and someone had put the accelerator pump diaphram in upside down! AAHH-HAA!----No go. Put in new points and condensor, no go. Had plenty of spark at the wire???? It would start but popped backfired puked . Has to be the carb. I bought a Holly 3310 carb at a swap meet that suppossedly been rebuilt and on the shelf for a long time. I had to transfer some parts from the first Holley It would then start but still popped and backfired occasionally. So then I thought the plug gap would have been wider for the elet. ign. so I TOOK OUT THE PLUGS, CLEANED THEM AND RESET THE GAP. ( caps not intended) Man ! what a PITA to change those plugs with headers !!! The engine started right up, might have been a combination of getting the carb soaked up with gas and the plugs.

At first the engine still popped and puked back when cold, but after a while when warmes up better, it started running smoother. . I stopped for the day so didn't get the carb finer tuned.

Question is: Is this cold missfire and puking back from two lean a low speed fuel mixture? My manual choke is not hooked up. Any other things that could still be a problem? Thanks for your input...........................MO


{Steve Mick}
http://stevemick1964dodge.shutterfly.com/pictures/5

----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and



----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and




----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and



----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.












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