Re: OT: painting vintage license plates

[doug daniel <dougdaniel50@xxxxxxxxx>]

and i thought i was determined and stubburn ,,,,good for you ,,,most people wouldn't give the effort 

--- On Wed, 3/16/11, Ollie <satellite1965@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:


From: Ollie <satellite1965@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: OT: painting vintage license plates
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wednesday, March 16, 2011, 2:22 PM



Jim,
Loved your story and detail. Now the final question? Was the loss of beer drinking time worth it? Bet it was; sure u sipped a few while working! You can say you did it yourself. Thatâ??s worth a lot.
Have fun,
Ollie

-----Original Message----- From: Jim Altemose
Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 12:55 PM
To: 1962to1965mopars
Subject: OT: painting vintage license plates


Hopefully this isn't too off-topic.  I'm sure some of you may try to
restore vintage license plates for your car.  Maybe this can save you
some trouble.  In NY I'd guess it's the same as much of the country in
that you can register a real vintage plate if it's the correct year
for the car and not in current use.

There's guys on the Web you can find to do it for about $75 per plate,
which may well be worth it.  I'm too stubborn and ignorant to think I
can't do everything myself.  It took my dumb a$$ five tries to get it
right, but they finally came out real nice.

Here's what worked:
1. Paint remover to take off majority of paint.  Blasting cabinet for the rest.

2. Sprayed base-coat primer using white Rustoleum metal primer.

3. Sprayed letter color 12 coats with Krylon Indoor/Outdoor.  Why
Krylon?  They had the right color.

4. Sprayed 12 coats of Rustoleum Clear Enamel to thicken and protect
layer.  Why?  KRYLON CLEAR COAT RUINS KRYLON PAINT.  More on that
later.

5. Sprayed 4 coats (or enough to cover) of Krylon Indoor/Outdoor
background color.

6. Very gently sanded off letters and edge with 900 grit emory.  Used
a tiny square with my finger tip.  Took about 1/2 hour per letter.
Touched up where necessary.

7. Sprayed 12 coats of Rustoleum Clear Enamel to finish.

I'm very pleased with the final results.


In case you want to learn from my mistakes, here's what didn't work.

1. Similar sanding method as above, but with a block.  Letters weren't
as uniform height as you'd think.  Got to metal quickly.  Strip it
again, start over.

2. Spray on background.  Roll on letters with a small detail roller.
Impossible to get full coverage without splatter and without getting
down edges of letters.  Strip it, start over.

3. Spray on background.  Hand paint with a fine brush.  You better be
Bob F'n Ross.  Very hard to not get edges.  Don't sneeze, burp or
fart.  Start over.

4. Back to sanding method.  Sprayed on Krylon letter color.  Then
sprayed on Krylon Clear Coat.  Gee, you'd think it would say somewhere
on the can they're incompatible.  Paint got sticky and bubbled up in
spots like it was paint remover.  Boy that one put me in a bad mood.

Hit on the correct combo of Rustoleum and Krylon after trial and error
on scrap plates.  It all sticks real good.

I never tried masking tape or vaseline; they might have been next.


A word about color selection.  I couldn't find the right letter color
in any stores, so had to go on line.  Rustoleum didn't have anything
close.  Krylon had a whole bunch, but they were 1/4 inch sample
swatches.  I'm handy with computers and Photoshop, so I brought into
Photoshop jpg images from the Web of the license plates.  Then I was
able to select a Photoshop pen with the same color from the swatches.
I could then paint right over the letters on the plates and compare
the colors.  Worked well for me.

Anyway, that's my story.  I hope I can save someone some of the hours
I lost drinking beer and listening to music and watching paint dry.
Actually, I guess it wasn't so bad.

- Jim
Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY
'63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge)
'63 Polara 500 (383)
'65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge)
'71 Bronco


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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:






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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. 

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