RE: crankshaft key?
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RE: crankshaft key?



Thanks to all who replied. I'll answer Dave's questions as an update.

I put the old crank gear mostly back on, along with the old cam gear, just so I could align the dots on the gears. I had no problem getting the old chain off as it was stretched enough to let the engine jump time.

I used a cheap puller but could not get the crank gear off, the fully-stressed puller kept popping off. I then used 2 big pry bars one on each side of the gear and "rocked" each pry bar and with a lot of force and "walked" the gear off. It's real tight!
I can get the old gear back on only by using a small hammer and strongly tapping on the right and left alternatively.  
  
I did not try the new gear on the parts motor but the old gear slides right on that one by hand. The key is in the crank on the parts motor.

I tried putting the old crank gear on backwards and the hangup seems to be in the same place. 
 
Yeah, the old key is still in there. It's hard to tell by eye if the key is up slightly toward the engine or wider there. It does not take much to hang this part up with clearance issues. I have soaked the key with solvents. Sounds like it is time for brute force. Heh Heh. I will use the suggestions sent so far to get the key out. Once it is out, I will probably see if I can get the key out of the parts motor and use that one in the running motor.

Thanks,
Gary H.


-----Original Message-----
 
>You say you had a hard time getting the old gear off originally. I see in your pic the cam gear is (back on?) in place. Even though it was difficult, were you able to remove both gears and chain as an assembly?
>Did you need/use a puller or pry bars? (I’m only trying to get a “feel” for just “how tight” it was.) 
>Secondly, you’re able to easily slide the old and new gears onto your spare motors’ crank, is that with or without a key in the crank keyway? Test fitting first without the key is a good idea. This gives opportunity to get other trouble spots out of the way, and then if troubles arise “with” the key, you know what to work on. Also, try test fitting the gear to the shaft backwards. If it stops at the same place, the problem is likely the shaft/key or if it stops somewhere differently the problem is likely the gear and not the shaft/key.
>Next I’m wondering, at what position is the stuck key “in”? Does the top flat look to be exactly parallel to the crank or maybe slightly higher at the back?
>Yet another thing to look at are the square (inside/outside) corners at the top of the key and where the key enters the shaft keyway, and the inside/outside corners of the keyway in the gear. New parts are especially notorious for having extremely sharp corners; it doesn’t hurt to just knock-off that sharpness.
>Ok, after all that, we still DID NOT get the old key out, did we? Had you tried letting it soak with penetrating oil? Lastly, when all else fails, it’s time to take the kid gloves off and get down-rite BRUTAL!  After all, it is not welded in there, so it “will” come out. Get that hammer and chisel and start swinging, just try to keep that chisel point under the key and pointed up and away from the shaft though a few scratches minor nicks can be filled smooth during the gear test fit process.      
>GOOD LUCK.
>
>Dave B


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