RE: Power Brake Conversion?

[Stan Kafouse <skafouse@xxxxxxxxx>]

I would definitely put a dual master cylinder. I have quite a few C body disc brake setups. If you find an Imperial you could put rear discs on also. If you stay with drums use DOT5 fluid. BIG difference in ANY drum brake vehicle.

--- On Fri, 10/15/10, David Bailey <bb64d440@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> From: David Bailey <bb64d440@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: RE: Power Brake Conversion?
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Friday, October 15, 2010, 12:11 AM
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Dave,
> You say this car has been sitting for 18 years before you
> bought it and the master cylinder was bone dry? I’d say
> the things you’re considering changing or converting to is
> all-good i.e. – MC, discs etc. but my opinion (or
> suggestion) would be to definitely replace all of the old
> steel brake lines and wheel cylinders (or the rear WC’s if
> you go with front discs). That sandy grit you found in the
> MC was rust and it will most likely be in all the brake
> lines and cyl’s too. Which is probably why you never could
> get the old brakes to work, as they should. I’d think
> companies like In-Line Tubing should be able to fix you up
> with new lines rather reasonably.  
> Best of luck.
> Dave B
> 
>  
> > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> > From: afterhoursfab@xxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: Power Brake Conversion?
> > Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 11:34:49 -0400
> > 
> > 
> > Hey guys,
> > 
> > My '62 880 needs a lot of things but I want to
> increase its
> > drivability first, and I've had nothing but trouble
> with the brakes
> > since day one. When I got the car it had been sitting
> for 18years and
> > the master was bone dry along with a bit of sandy
> substance in the
> > bottom. I cleaned it all out and bench bled it and
> bled the whole
> > system but can't get a good pedal, its always soft or
> mushy. If I pump
> > the pedal once or twice it comes up and stays hard but
> if I release
> > it, it goes back to mushy within a few moments. I've
> adjusted the
> > wheel cylinders to the book and it made a slight
> difference but
> > nothing drastic. The car recently sat for a month and
> the brake pedal
> > is worse than ever, requiring multiple pumps to get a
> pedal. My last
> > course is to replace the master, as I'm sure a seal or
> two had to dry
> > out in there..
> > 
> > So if I'm replacing the master, I may as well upgrade
> to power right?
> > Or should I save the money and put it into the disc
> brake conversion?
> > I'd rather do both, but since I'm suspecting a bad
> master, it seems to
> > make sense to deal with that first. I've been looking
> at Prior
> > Remanufacturing's website since they sell the booster
> and master
> > together, would it be a direct swap? They list 3
> different units,
> > single diaphragm, dual, and then one that says "Field
> Inst. (Frame
> > mount)"; I don't know what that is.. Of course these
> are for a '62
> > Chrysler as nothing is available for an 880, and I'm
> assuming the
> > interchange is correct because it has been for other
> parts. Let me
> > know your opinions!
> > 
> > - Dave
> > 
> > 
> > ----
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
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> content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
> > 
> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> 
> > 
>     
>         
>           
>   
> --
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send
> parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other
> personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
> Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your
> privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> 
> 
> 
>