Paul, Of course the manufacturer makes their product sound good . The thing I liked about them was that you don't have to cut out some of the rear floor pan, and the connectors are boxed in using the floor pan as the top. HOWEVER, it looks like in some places that they are not "thick" enough. where the floor pan takes a dip. I just assumed they did not show from the side. I would like to look additional at your connectors. The pics on the 62-65 site does not show enough for me. I notice that yours do not extend up through the rear floorpan as much as others I have seen. I do not know just how much power it takes to buckle quarter panels and I do not want to find out with MY car.( will be around 375-400 HP.)
I have about 7 years on you--do you have any frame connectors to hold me together long enough to do everything I usta plan on doing???
{Steve Mick} http://stevemick.shutterfly.com/pictures#Part%202----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Hamaday" <phamaday@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 9:03 PM Subject: Re: More Sub Frame Connector QuestionsIf the TOP side follows the contours of the floor pan then they must be visible from outside the car. If a car needs connectors, then it needs GOOD connectors. You don't 'kinda need' connectors. Why take the time to weld in 'semi strong' connectors? You also have to remember our cars are getting old & as they grow old they are losing structural integrity. If you're going to modify an aging car give it a solid foundation. I'm not trying to sell my connectors. I couldn't possibly produce enough for our community alone. But damn, I'm 57, could OUR old bodies produce more power without strengthening our frames?
Hammer --- On Fri, 9/17/10, MO ( Steve Mick) <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
From: MO ( Steve Mick) <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: More Sub Frame Connector Questions To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx Date: Friday, September 17, 2010, 9:40 PM As I understand, they are not needed till horsepower is approching 400 and using hard bite slicks. There is another type that interests me--It is sheet metal U channel that the top side is trimmed to follow the contour of your underneath floor pans. They are then welded on the ends and along the sides, to the floor-pan. They do not show from the outside of the car. You have torque boxes?? I thought they come only on convertibles and Hemi cars.. They may be all you need...................MO {Steve Mick} http://stevemick.shutterfly.com/pictures#Part%202 ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Bailey" <bb64d440@xxxxxxxxxxx> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 8:19 AM Subject: More Sub Frame Connector Questions The recent mention of sub frame connectors here rekindled, my thoughts of adding them to my ’64 Dodge B-body two door HT…when I get ‘round…to replacing the floor pans. But I have some questions on type(s) and installation location. First, I seem to remember reading about two commercially available types, one type being constructed of round tubing (pipe) with end brackets for bolting (or welding) and the other is sheet metal formed to a U channel. Then there are those who fabricate their own from rectangular steel tube. (I might consider the later route myself.) I should also mention that I don’t intend this to be a racecar yielding tons-o’-torque. It’ll be a nearly stock 383 w/4bl, 4 speed for summer weekend cruising, though I will want to “stomp on it” occasionally. Next is mounting location. The fact that the front sub frame rails do not line up directly with the rear frame rails, what is the recommended tie-in point’s front to rear? And should there be any additional strengthening to the torque boxes? Should the connectors run at a slight angle to match-up with the ends of each sub frame rail? Looking for some fuel for thought via recommendations…including none at all? Thank you Gents! Dave B -- [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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