Re: Fuel tank sending unit

[Nico Over <nover@xxxxxxxx>]

Bill if I read your response to Gary's comment your gauge is OK (gauge moved 
when power wire is grounded)and the fault is at the sending unit. Did you 
check the sending unit with your multimeter to see if the ohm's changed 
(approx 0/2 to 70/73 ohms)as you raise and lower the float arm prior to 
installation? I've seen even new units where the little wiper on the coil is 
not touching and so there is no complete circuit. This may be your problem. 
Just a thought. 
Nico Over
Va. Beach, Va.

On Fri, 13 Aug 2010 05:02:41 -0700 (PDT), William Harrison wrote
> Used the multimeter all the way to the sending unit and had power 
> all the way to the unit. Grounded the power wire to the frame with 
> change in the guage reading. Going to pull the guage out this 
> morning before it gets really hot and change it out. If that doesn't 
> work I will get a BFH and lightly tap it in a few places........lol
> 
> Need to get it trailered up for the run to the Nats tomorrow morning.
> 
> Later
> Bill Harrison
> 65 Coronet 2 dr post that could be up for sale if I don't get the 
> bugs out...
> 
> --- On Tue, 8/10/10, Gary H. <spigot2039@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> 
> > From: Gary H. <spigot2039@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Subject: Re: Fuel tank sending unit
> > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> > Date: Tuesday, August 10, 2010, 10:36 PM
> > 
> > 
> > http://www.billrolikenterprises.com/proddetail.asp?prod=2258862-SS
> > is the ground strap I was thinking about.
> > 
> > If you remove the wire hooked to the sending unit and
> > ground the wire, then turn on the ignition switch, if the
> > gauge goes to full, the sending unit is bad. If it doesn't
> > go to full, it may be a bad gauge or wiring. 
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > Gary H. 
> > 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > >The metal piece that locks the unit to the tank seems
> > to have a good bite but I will run a ground from that piece
> > to the frame and see if that makes a difference.
> > >I also coated the tank when I replaced the sending unit
> > and was almost hoping that the coating had come off and was
> > keeping the float from working properly but no luck, the
> > coating is working perfectly.
> > >I am also going to trace the wire and make sure it has
> > a good connection at the kick panel where it splices about 6
> > wires together.
> > >Later
> > >Bill
> > >P.S. Now the tranny fill tube has started leaking.
> > >It's like Rose Rossana  Danna says: If it's not
> > one thing it's another.
> > >
> > >--- On Mon, 8/9/10, Gary H. <> wrote:
> > >
> >  
> > >> Yes, does the grounding piece that runs from the
> > unit to
> > >> the metal fuel line have a good "bite" on both
> > sides?
> > >> 
> > >> Thanks,
> > >> Gary H.
> > >> 
> > >> 
> > >> -----Original Message-----
> > >> >That's normal Bill. The fuel gauge (along with
> > the oil
> > >> and temp gauges if 
> > >> >you have them) run on 5 volts. The 5 volts
> > comes out of
> > >> the voltage limiter 
> > >> >which works by pulsing the 12 volts on and
> > off. Are you
> > >> sure that the new 
> > >> >sending unit has a good ground?
> > >> >
> > >> >Dan
> > >> 
> > >> 
> > 
> > 
> > ----
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
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> > 
> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> > 
> > 
> >


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. 

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