RE: Just Suspension

[Steven Charette <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Gotcha.

I definitely would shy away from grinding on the control arm in any way.
What about either A) some form of adhesive to help the boot grip, B) a
tie-wrap to help clamp the boot to the control arm, or C) building up the
area with epoxy or a durable metal tape, or something to make the
interference fit tighter?  Another thought might be to carefully peen the
edges of the existing lip over to give you better retention? 

Can you measure the diameter of the sealing surface and the diameter of the
retaining lip with a pair of calipers to see exactly where the problem lies?

SC

-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Safford [mailto:hzf9vv@xxxxxxxxx] 
Sent: Monday, August 09, 2010 5:24 PM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Just Suspension

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The issue is that with these control arms ( not sure if the originals were
like this ), the ball joint swivels to a pretty severe angle which
compresses one side of the boot. This makes the other side tend to pull
away.

I assembled each side exactly the same - passenger side boot stays on,
drivers side boot pops off as soon as you move the ball joint stud to where
it needs to be in order to insert it in the spindle.

Brian

On Mon, Aug 9, 2010 at 4:39 PM, Steven Charette
<stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> Brian,
>        I understand your frustration but have a question... once 
> assembled will there be any possibility of the boot popping loose from the
joint?
> Unless I'm mistaken there would be sufficient compression of the boot 
> to keep it seated on the joint, or am I reading this wrong?
>
> SC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brian Safford [mailto:hzf9vv@xxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Monday, August 09, 2010 4:14 PM
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Just Suspension
>
>
> Well, this is pretty bogus in my opinion.
>
> The driver's side tubular control arm / ball joint I received from 
> Just Suspension didn't have enough of a lip on it to properly hold the 
> rubber boot. I had no problem at all with the passenger side assembly
> - at least 1/8" or better there.
>
> So I called them about a month ago and complained, and they were very 
> apologetic, understood exactly what I was saying, and agreed to send 
> me a fully assembled replacement as I didn't think I should have to 
> assemble it myself given it was their issue.
>
> The replacement showed up today ... with less than 1/16" of lip for 
> the boot
> - same problem as before, not enough surface friction to hold it on 
> when the ball joint moves much past vertical.
>
> So I call them again ... again, very apologetic and understand why I'd 
> be upset, but you know, since these are such low cost control arms you 
> just have to accept the fact that there will be production variances 
> outside of their control ...
>
> Wow.
>
> They agreed to send me a FedEx label so I can ship it back at no cost 
> and get a full refund.
>
> Here's my question to you folks ... do you think I can take the one I 
> have to a shop ( or just grind it myself ) and grind off enough of the 
> ring so the boot will fit better without causing any strength or 
> reliability issues to the control arm assembly?
>
> I'm also considering cleaning off my original equipment control arms 
> and installing them instead.
>
> Last piece of business I will *ever* do with Just Suspension.
>
> Regards,
> Brian Safford
> '62 Dart 440 / Poly 318
>
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- 
> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended 
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>
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and 
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
>
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
topic.  Thanks!
>
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
>
>
>

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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. 
---------------


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. 

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