RE: Media blaster troubleshooting

[Jeff Adams <ledman_70@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Another thing to consider is a pressurized blaster. I have a $69 Harbor 
Freight pressurized blaster that I have used several times. I usually 
just pull a tarp over me and what I'm blasting to keep the material in a 
confined area. This thing goes thru material very fast, but it blasts 
things 10 times faster than my cabinet, and will even cut dried grease, 
which the cabinet won't. DO NOT get any body parts in front of it as it 
will clean them off, too! I used this to blast the front frame on the 68 
Sport Fury I just redid, and it cleaned it off quickly and completely. 
Not for everyday use... my cabinet won't clean a rusty rim, but the 
pressureized blaster sure will.
Steve Charette wrote:
> 
> Yep, if you want to remove material in a hurry, aluminum oxide is the 
> way to
> go.  We use it for anything that doesn't have a surface that needs to be
> maintained - it will remove rust, paint, whatever in a hurry, but it 
> will
> also chow down on the base material if given the opportunity.  We use 
> glass
> beads for work that needs to keep it's surface.
> 
> Any kind of silica sand is strictly verboten (forbidden, that is) for 
> any
> kind of indoor blasting around here - the fine dust left from the 
> shattered
> silica causes silicosis, whereby the small particles of silica cause the
> formation of scar tissue that diminishes the capacity of the lungs to do
> their thing. We will use it outdoors once in a while with proper 
> personal
> protective equipment - respirator, goggles, hood, etc.  Sooner or later 
> the
> government will outlaw sand...
> 
> We use Maxus guns - we get them from WW Grainger.  They are relatively
> inexpensive ($30-ish) and they have a consistent flow of replacement 
> parts,
> unlike some retail outlets.  We generally end up replacing the gun every
> 8-12 months after the aluminum oxide has destroyed the carbide tip ($35 
> last
> time I got one) and then proceeded to eat the gun.  We need to check the
> tips more often :)
> 
> The carbide tips generally last 3-4 months, while we can eat up a 
> ceramic
> tip in a day with the aluminum oxide.  
> 
> SC
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Butch Edison [mailto:waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx] 
> Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2010 12:06 PM
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: Media blaster troubleshooting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should clarify, I'm NOT using builders sand. I'm using aluminum oxide. 
> /
> Butch 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Steve,  I did not know there were carbide tips. Where do you get
> yours?  I'm going to go back to zero with this cabinet and set it up 
> again,
> all fresh, new gun tip, new media, etc., and will use the tips you all 
> are
> providing on the forum to see what works best for me. 
> 
> 
> 
> While the blaster did not work well with the gun that came with the 
> cabinet,
> it did work great for awhile with the gun off my $50.00 outdoor Sears
> blaster that uses builders sand. I think now that the ceramic tip in 
> that
> gun is shot. 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing I'm thinking, because I only have been "trying" to use my 
> cabinet
> once a month or so that moisture is probably an issue with mine. I'm 
> going
> to get one of the water collectors like we use in boats and rvs around 
> here
> in the winter and put one them in the cabinet, see if it collects any 
> water
> and if that changes performance. 
> 
> 
> 
> Because I'm running out of time to get this car ready for Hot August 
> Nights
> in Reno, I took the wheels to a professional powder coating shop for 
> media
> blasting yesterday. He said he never uses these types of cabinets that 
> count
> on gravity feed, that even his small portables are such that the media 
> is in
> a pressurized tank and the media is discharged under pressure, which he
> finds more reliable, I have not looked at any of those set ups. 
> 
> 
> 
> Liked that...... "like a white shirt in a bar fight".  :) 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks/Butch/Ferndale, WA 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steven Charette" <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2010 8:50:50 AM
> Subject: RE: Media blaster troubleshooting 
> 
> 
> Butch,
>         We run our Harbor Freight blasting cabinet 8-10 hours a day 4-6 
> days
> a month.  As others have mentioned, moisture can be a problem.  We've 
> also
> discovered that having too much abrasive in the hopper prevents the 
> siphon
> hose from pulling well especially with a coarse media. 
> 
>         You may also want to look into a carbide tip if you don't have 
> one
> already - aluminum oxide is great but ceramic nozzles last like a white
> shirt in a bar fight... 
> 
>          
> SC 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Butch Edison [mailto:waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2010 6:30 PM
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Media blaster troubleshooting 
> 
> 
> I bought a Northern Tool Media blast cabinet some months ago. It is way
> smarter than me and it hurts to say you've been outsmarted by sand and
> compressed air!. I have a large snap-on 7 HP 175 PSI 80 gallon 
> compressor so
> think I should have enough air. I'm trying to use 70 grit aluminum oxide 
> to
> clean some wheels. The thing barely draws for awhile, then it will work 
> like
> magic for a couple of minutes, then back to nothing or next to nothing. 
> I've
> tried changing guns, running the media pickup tube in and out of the 
> media. 
> Nothing seems to work for more than a couple of minutes. I have an air 
> dryer
> in line with the media cabinet. 
> 
> If you've had some lessons learned with these things, please tell me 
> what
> you've found out through your use. This thing could easily end up in the
> scrap yard, but I think it's probably something I'm just not 
> understanding
> about how to use it. 
> 
> Thanks for any help. /Butch/ Ferndale, WA 
> 
> 
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> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: 
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> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. 
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] 
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> ---- 
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
> negotiations
> as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not 
> to
> the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
> reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to 
> Mopar
> topic.  Thanks! 
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: 
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. 
> 
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
> negotiations
> as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not 
> to
> the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
> reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to 
> Mopar
> topic.  Thanks!
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. 
> 
> 
> 



Jeff Adams
64 Polara


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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