RE: Headers and....... Well, just headers this time around

[Butch Edison <waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Steve, I'd appreciate any photos you would send to waedisonatComcast.net (replace the at with @). I'll go with their headers for sure, will talk to them about the starter, may come back to you on that one if I don't 'get it'. The 426 m/w is going into the red Sport Fury you evaluated for me. Body and paint starts in a few weeks.

Thanks/Butch/Ferndale, WA

-----Original Message-----
From: Stevan Miner [mailto:miner@xxxxxxxxxxx] 
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 4:22 PM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Headers and....... Well, just headers this time around


Hi Butch,
The only thing I had to change was my starter to the shorter armature style 
as the longer one will not fit. That is explained in the instructions that 
are included with the headers. I was able to install both sides without 
raising the engine or anything, in fact on the passenger side, I installed 
the header from the top. I can't ever remember doing that on any header on 
any make of car. These headers do not "capture" the starter like so many 
others do so if you ever have to change that, it's a piece of cake.  The 426 
wedge is the same configuration as a 440 so they fit just great. You are 
able to use the factory studs in the heads also so you don't have to screw 
around with header bolts and deal with the antifreeze leaking around the 
bolts. They make these in both plain and chrome finish. I got mine just 
plain and painted them with high temp silver. They look great. If you would 
like pictures with them installed on my 65, I'd be happy to send you some.
Steve

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Butch Edison" <waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 9:56 AM
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Headers and.......  Well, just headers this time around

>
>
>
>
> Steve, THANK YOU for that. I'll save your note as I'm looking at changing 
> out some cheap headers on my 64 Sport Fury 383 very soon and will check 
> out the Schumacher headers. I'll investigate their exhaust systems as 
> well. If you have any thoughts on that, I'd sure appreciate them. From 
> what you said, my factory "whah whaw" starter will work with these headers 
> which is I want. I don't know what "the longer 2hp" means.
>
>
>
> Does Schumacher make headers for the 426 max wedge that you can vouch for 
> as well ? Dan Dvorak is putting a numbers correct 1964 m/w for me. It will 
> be a 9.5/1 compression with hydraulics, as it will be a street machine, 
> with A727 floor shift and power steering.
>
>
>
> Thanks again Steve. Great note.
>
> /Butch/Ferndale, WA
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Steven Charette" <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 7:30:27 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: RE: Headers and.......  Well, just headers this time around
>
>
> I'll start with disclosure - I work closely with Schumacher but can give
> first-hand facts as opposed to opinion.
>
> There are differences in the relationships of the engine and chassis from
> '62-'65 and '66-'72.  A few header manufacturers realize the difference 
> and
> have designed the headers accordingly, and the remainder simply don't
> consider the '65 and earlier offerings.  Some headers listed as '66-later
> will indeed fit the '62-'65 cars, so the best source of information will 
> be
> the folks on this list.
>
> I can vouch for the fit of the Schumacher headers on the '62-'65 cars as I
> have had my hand in a few installations.  The headers are a tri-y design,
> with 1 5/8" primary into 2" y's, then a 2 1/2" collector.  Fitment is
> excellent, with ample room to change plugs and not burn wires (straight or
> angle plugs) and the ability to change the starter without removing the
> headers (stock length starter or mini, not the longer 2hp variety).  No
> clearance issues with power steering, brakes, A/C, etc.  The tubes are 14
> gauge steel and are oriented so that you can use a socket to torque the 
> 3/8"
> laser-cut header flange to the head to ensure good sealing.  The thicker
> tubing also helps damp the "ticky-tick" sound of cheap headers. Retention 
> of
> the studs is recommended in lieu of header bolts, and simplifies
> installation.  Basically you jack the motor up and drop 'em in.
>
> An important note is that these headers are designed for automatic
> transmission use - they must be modified for stick use.  Also bear in mind
> that many aftermarket heads position the exhaust ports differently which 
> can
> influence clearance and fit.  One other consideration is that these
> mass-produced cars have production tolerances that are exacerbated by 
> being
> beaten up and down the roads for 50 years or the cars have been 
> disassembled
> and reassembled.  A header that fits perfectly on one car and engine
> combination may not fit another identical model car and engine combination
> without modification or adjustment.
>
> The Schumacher header was designed primarily for street use, or as an
> upgrade to HP manifolds.  Many people snub their nose at the 1 5/8" tube,
> but testing has proven that the tube size is actually more efficient than 
> a
> 2" tube well into the 12 second range.  Low end torque and cold 
> driveability
> are maintained which cannot be said of larger headers.
>
> We're often asked "How much horsepower will they make?" which is a tough
> question with a lot of variables.  We have chosen E.T. as a rough 
> guideline
> - once a combination is much below 12 seconds in performance (particularly
> at higher RPM) suffers.  Engine displacement has a lot to do with this,
> along with many other factors.
>
> Our testing results can be seen at www.engine-swaps.com by scrolling to 
> the
> bottom of the page and clicking the "Smokin' Barracuda" link.  I have also
> done some flow study and can evaluate the suitability of the headers for
> specific combinations if you contact me off-list.
>
> Bottom line:  Expect leaks and fitment problems with economy headers
> (Blackjack, etc.)  Expect to pay in excess of $400 for a decent header.
> Large diameter tubes are great for high horsepower drag cars but fit,
> driveability, serviceability, and ground clearance suffer.
>
> For ease of installation and maintenance I highly recommend the Schumacher
> headers for street driven applications.  For higher-horsepower 
> applications
> I recommend TTI headers.
>
> SC
>
>
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: Gary H. [mailto:spigot2039@xxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 10:49 PM
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: Headers and.......
>
>
> I suspect some of the confusion is from the post-1966 bias in parts
> catalogs. Also, the pre-1966 B body use of a K member that moved the motor
> slightly forward compared to the 1966 up B's, which may affect header
> clearance in various header designs. Last I looked one mfg., Hooker I 
> think,
> listed pre-1966 headers, as did Schumacher Creative Services. Others 
> anyone?
>
>
> As for springs, remind us what B you have.
>
> Thanks,
> Gary H.
>
>
> -----Original Message----- 
>
>>
>>
>>    Can any one enlighten me on a couple of items? I want to replace
>>the headers and rear springs on my '65 Coronet. The problem is, the
>>applications for both items all say " will fit '66 to '74". I've
>>contacted Jegs, Summit, etc. and they can't tell me anything. Steve at
>>Imperial Services told me he runs the SS springs on the street,has
>>anyone else any comments? Thanks, Merwin
>
>
> ---- 
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>
> ---- 
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --  
> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended 
> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect 
> your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content 
> signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
>
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and 
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --  
> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended 
> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect 
> your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content 
> signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
>
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and 
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
>
> 


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. 


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.